Track car cooling setup
10-13-2010, 10:08 PM
#21
great and very informative replies are there ... thx guys
now i want to mention one thing i should have mention it before (i know i might get banned for that
)
when i said overheat issue, i meant that the Temp needle was in the middle between C and H. and the weather that day was very hot.. im talking about 43 C and very high humidity percentage.
actually i did refluch my radiator after that track day for the same reason of having bubbles/air inside the radiator, but didnt track it afterwords.
with regards to the brake ducts, im very interested to know more info about whatever is made for that purpose. as i notice that i was losing the brake after few laps. actually brakes were acting like a G**. i dunno if changing the OEM oil lines to oil steel braided lines will make any difference
plz guys share your experiences
now i want to mention one thing i should have mention it before (i know i might get banned for that
)when i said overheat issue, i meant that the Temp needle was in the middle between C and H. and the weather that day was very hot.. im talking about 43 C and very high humidity percentage.
actually i did refluch my radiator after that track day for the same reason of having bubbles/air inside the radiator, but didnt track it afterwords.
with regards to the brake ducts, im very interested to know more info about whatever is made for that purpose. as i notice that i was losing the brake after few laps. actually brakes were acting like a G**. i dunno if changing the OEM oil lines to oil steel braided lines will make any difference
plz guys share your experiences
F!!!! i told you millions of times already about the SS brake lines!!
When I tracked my car during summer (approx 101f outside temp) my needle was constantly almost in the middle, slightly pointing down C.
I guess what you should do when the needle starts pointing up is to do a cool down lap before you go hard again on the next one.
I just found out that HR generates more heat than DE. why is that??
10-13-2010, 10:12 PM
#22
Registered User
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 603
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just bought a 2008 Nismo (HR) and at my first track day which had long straights, car ran in the normal water temp range but on my second track day which was on a course that had the car at high RPM's all the time, the stock water temp gauge went to the high side of the gauge.
Not sure how accurate the stock gauge is but oil cooler and radiator are going in before the next event.
The only reasonabley priced radiator I could find for the HR was the Koyorad Aluminum Race radiator (about $360 on ebay). Mishimoto said they were looking for a test car to make a radiator for the HR motor but unfortunately, they are on the other side of the country from me.
Not sure how accurate the stock gauge is but oil cooler and radiator are going in before the next event.
The only reasonabley priced radiator I could find for the HR was the Koyorad Aluminum Race radiator (about $360 on ebay). Mishimoto said they were looking for a test car to make a radiator for the HR motor but unfortunately, they are on the other side of the country from me.
10-14-2010, 03:17 AM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
F!!!! i told you millions of times already about the SS brake lines!!
When I tracked my car during summer (approx 101f outside temp) my needle was constantly almost in the middle, slightly pointing down C.
I guess what you should do when the needle starts pointing up is to do a cool down lap before you go hard again on the next one.
I just found out that HR generates more heat than DE. why is that??
When I tracked my car during summer (approx 101f outside temp) my needle was constantly almost in the middle, slightly pointing down C.
I guess what you should do when the needle starts pointing up is to do a cool down lap before you go hard again on the next one.
I just found out that HR generates more heat than DE. why is that??
@Brain. more info on the custom radiator and CF brake duct. i couldnt find them
is that what you refering to?
thx
Last edited by f-350z; 10-14-2010 at 03:21 AM.
10-14-2010, 06:51 AM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...rake-duct.html
I have the radiators made special order. They're $795 each which is a lot, but they work. PM me if you are interested.
Brian
10-14-2010, 08:46 PM
#28
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
great and very informative replies are there ... thx guys
now i want to mention one thing i should have mention it before (i know i might get banned for that)
when i said overheat issue, i meant that the Temp needle was in the middle between C and H. and the weather that day was very hot.. im talking about 43 C and very high humidity percentage.
actually i did refluch my radiator after that track day for the same reason of having bubbles/air inside the radiator, but didnt track it afterwords.
with regards to the brake ducts, im very interested to know more info about whatever is made for that purpose. as i notice that i was losing the brake after few laps. actually brakes were acting like a G**. i dunno if changing the OEM oil lines to oil steel braided lines will make any difference
plz guys share your experiences
now i want to mention one thing i should have mention it before (i know i might get banned for that
)when i said overheat issue, i meant that the Temp needle was in the middle between C and H. and the weather that day was very hot.. im talking about 43 C and very high humidity percentage.
actually i did refluch my radiator after that track day for the same reason of having bubbles/air inside the radiator, but didnt track it afterwords.
with regards to the brake ducts, im very interested to know more info about whatever is made for that purpose. as i notice that i was losing the brake after few laps. actually brakes were acting like a G**. i dunno if changing the OEM oil lines to oil steel braided lines will make any difference
plz guys share your experiences
Also, if you're not running dedicated track brakes, meaning pads that are temperature rates to at least 1300F/150C you're going to get brake fade on the track sooner or later. Also you risk warping your rotors. Track pads are not very good on the streets because they must be hot to be effective. They will stop you and are generally safe to and from the track, just leave some extra distance.
In addition, make sure you are running high temp brake fluid, ATE Superblue, Motul 600, or similar to stop brake fluid boil which results in a soft brake pedal when the boiling point is reached. Also, Titanium shims ( http://tispeed.com/ )are also a good measure to reduce heat soak into the calipers, fluid, and protect the rubber seals to some degree. Front brakes are more important than the back brakes as more heat is usually generated there.
Have fun out there! Where do you usually race? Yas Marina?!?
10-15-2010, 08:09 AM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Check out this thread for the brake ducts. I ran them at the Runoffs a few weeks ago and was very pleased:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...rake-duct.html
I have the radiators made special order. They're $795 each which is a lot, but they work. PM me if you are interested.
Brian
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...rake-duct.html
I have the radiators made special order. They're $795 each which is a lot, but they work. PM me if you are interested.
Brian
Are you running the OEM brombo's+pads+rotors?
Thanks
10-15-2010, 08:31 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sounds like your water temp was fine. In the middle is generally under control. It appears you're in the UAE so freezing temperatures probably isn't an issue so consider water with "Water Wetter" instead of anti-freeze. It's supposed to be more effective although I can't say I've seen a big difference, but some people swear by it.
Also, if you're not running dedicated track brakes, meaning pads that are temperature rates to at least 1300F/150C you're going to get brake fade on the track sooner or later. Also you risk warping your rotors. Track pads are not very good on the streets because they must be hot to be effective. They will stop you and are generally safe to and from the track, just leave some extra distance.
In addition, make sure you are running high temp brake fluid, ATE Superblue, Motul 600, or similar to stop brake fluid boil which results in a soft brake pedal when the boiling point is reached. Also, Titanium shims ( http://tispeed.com/ )are also a good measure to reduce heat soak into the calipers, fluid, and protect the rubber seals to some degree. Front brakes are more important than the back brakes as more heat is usually generated there.
Have fun out there! Where do you usually race? Yas Marina?!?
Also, if you're not running dedicated track brakes, meaning pads that are temperature rates to at least 1300F/150C you're going to get brake fade on the track sooner or later. Also you risk warping your rotors. Track pads are not very good on the streets because they must be hot to be effective. They will stop you and are generally safe to and from the track, just leave some extra distance.
In addition, make sure you are running high temp brake fluid, ATE Superblue, Motul 600, or similar to stop brake fluid boil which results in a soft brake pedal when the boiling point is reached. Also, Titanium shims ( http://tispeed.com/ )are also a good measure to reduce heat soak into the calipers, fluid, and protect the rubber seals to some degree. Front brakes are more important than the back brakes as more heat is usually generated there.
Have fun out there! Where do you usually race? Yas Marina?!?
I'm running the brombo's pads for street/track use. Till now I replaced the the brake oil to higher boiling point (can't remember the name). Also have my oil lines changed to oil steel braided lines + stoptech slotted rotors (OEM spec)
Weather is getting better now a days, so I'm thinking initially of changing my pads and to get a proper brake duct. later will decide whether to get a BBK or not.
Yup
Yas marina
10-15-2010, 08:43 AM
#31
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brian
10-16-2010, 06:31 AM
#33
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I heard good reviews about the water wetter.. But I dunno if i have to start using it
I'm running the brombo's pads for street/track use. Till now I replaced the the brake oil to higher boiling point (can't remember the name). Also have my oil lines changed to oil steel braided lines + stoptech slotted rotors (OEM spec)
Weather is getting better now a days, so I'm thinking initially of changing my pads and to get a proper brake duct. later will decide whether to get a BBK or not.
Yup Yas marina
I'm running the brombo's pads for street/track use. Till now I replaced the the brake oil to higher boiling point (can't remember the name). Also have my oil lines changed to oil steel braided lines + stoptech slotted rotors (OEM spec)
Weather is getting better now a days, so I'm thinking initially of changing my pads and to get a proper brake duct. later will decide whether to get a BBK or not.
Yup
Yas marinaI haven't seen temperature ranges on the Brembos, but I'm guessing they probably top out at 500-650C (~1000-1200F). Anybody know this information offhand? A dedicated track pad at least on the front is definitely worth considering if you're getting pad fade.
Carbotech XP10 or 12 are real popular choices. I just put on XP10s (1 track day) up front and I'm happy with them. I probably would do XP12 next time, I like high bite pads but wanted to test the XP10s first. I just replaced some Hawk DTC60s, they were okay, but like more bite. Plus you had to push the pedal halfway before they started to bite, but good modulation after that. I've run Ferodo DS2500 and EBC Yellowstuff in the back. I might go back to the OEM Brembos in the rear though. The rears don't heat up as much so a street/race pad seems to be sufficient in my experience. Rear track pads would probably increase performance, but I'm okay with just swapping the fronts for now. I'm running street tires, but race compounds would benefit more from track pads all around IMO.
Last edited by NismoZ_840; 10-16-2010 at 06:32 AM.
10-19-2010, 03:31 AM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thx guys for your advices.. They were very helpful to me, and will take them all in consideration.
- aftermarket radiator
- water wetter
- titanium shims
- brake ducts
And all other suggestions
@Nismo, will post some videos when I go cross some of them.
- aftermarket radiator
- water wetter
- titanium shims
- brake ducts
And all other suggestions
@Nismo, will post some videos when I go cross some of them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
etkms
Engine & Drivetrain
29
06-19-2022 06:30 PM
