F!!!! i told you millions of times already about the SS brake lines!!

When I tracked my car during summer (approx 101f outside temp) my needle was constantly almost in the middle, slightly pointing down C.

I guess what you should do when the needle starts pointing up is to do a cool down lap before you go hard again on the next one.

I just found out that HR generates more heat than DE. why is that??

 

I just bought a 2008 Nismo (HR) and at my first track day which had long straights, car ran in the normal water temp range but on my second track day which was on a course that had the car at high RPM's all the time, the stock water temp gauge went to the high side of the gauge.

Not sure how accurate the stock gauge is but oil cooler and radiator are going in before the next event.

The only reasonabley priced radiator I could find for the HR was the Koyorad Aluminum Race radiator (about $360 on ebay). Mishimoto said they were looking for a test car to make a radiator for the HR motor but unfortunately, they are on the other side of the country from me.

 

i got it buddy.. but i just wanted to list all my mod here so others can suggest me the proper solution..

@Brain. more info on the custom radiator and CF brake duct. i couldnt find them

is that what you refering to?



thx

 

all the best bro.

get the radiator and dont think too much .

 

Plz expand on the term "saddle mount"...I am not familiar with that. thnx!

 

I believe he means the mounting orientation. For instance mounting the coolers evenly spaced across the front end rather than stacking them on top of eachother or bunching them up.

 

Check out this thread for the brake ducts. I ran them at the Runoffs a few weeks ago and was very pleased:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...rake-duct.html

I have the radiators made special order. They're $795 each which is a lot, but they work. PM me if you are interested.

Brian

 

Sounds like your water temp was fine. In the middle is generally under control. It appears you're in the UAE so freezing temperatures probably isn't an issue so consider water with "Water Wetter" instead of anti-freeze. It's supposed to be more effective although I can't say I've seen a big difference, but some people swear by it.

Also, if you're not running dedicated track brakes, meaning pads that are temperature rates to at least 1300F/150C you're going to get brake fade on the track sooner or later. Also you risk warping your rotors. Track pads are not very good on the streets because they must be hot to be effective. They will stop you and are generally safe to and from the track, just leave some extra distance.

In addition, make sure you are running high temp brake fluid, ATE Superblue, Motul 600, or similar to stop brake fluid boil which results in a soft brake pedal when the boiling point is reached. Also, Titanium shims ( http://tispeed.com/ )are also a good measure to reduce heat soak into the calipers, fluid, and protect the rubber seals to some degree. Front brakes are more important than the back brakes as more heat is usually generated there.

Have fun out there! Where do you usually race? Yas Marina?!?

 

Wow that brake duct looks very efficient. Will take a look on them
Are you running the OEM brombo's+pads+rotors?

Thanks

 

Yeah I heard good reviews about the water wetter.. But I dunno if i have to start using it

I'm running the brombo's pads for street/track use. Till now I replaced the the brake oil to higher boiling point (can't remember the name). Also have my oil lines changed to oil steel braided lines + stoptech slotted rotors (OEM spec)

Weather is getting better now a days, so I'm thinking initially of changing my pads and to get a proper brake duct. later will decide whether to get a BBK or not.

Yup Yas marina

 

OEM Brembos and rotors with Hawk DTC70 pads up front, DTC60 in back. We'll probably switch to a less aggressive rear for better balance - maybe even an OEM pad. The front/rear brake bias on the Z is pretty bad especially since most of the weight sits up front - the rears are too aggressive for what little weight the rear of the car carries. That which makes the car especially unstable under heavy braking.

Brian

 

Anyone Google 'uae temperature?'

 

Nice, I'd love to see some video from Yas if you have some!

I haven't seen temperature ranges on the Brembos, but I'm guessing they probably top out at 500-650C (~1000-1200F). Anybody know this information offhand? A dedicated track pad at least on the front is definitely worth considering if you're getting pad fade.

Carbotech XP10 or 12 are real popular choices. I just put on XP10s (1 track day) up front and I'm happy with them. I probably would do XP12 next time, I like high bite pads but wanted to test the XP10s first. I just replaced some Hawk DTC60s, they were okay, but like more bite. Plus you had to push the pedal halfway before they started to bite, but good modulation after that. I've run Ferodo DS2500 and EBC Yellowstuff in the back. I might go back to the OEM Brembos in the rear though. The rears don't heat up as much so a street/race pad seems to be sufficient in my experience. Rear track pads would probably increase performance, but I'm okay with just swapping the fronts for now. I'm running street tires, but race compounds would benefit more from track pads all around IMO.

 

 

Thx guys for your advices.. They were very helpful to me, and will take them all in consideration.

- aftermarket radiator
- water wetter
- titanium shims
- brake ducts

And all other suggestions

@Nismo, will post some videos when I go cross some of them.