Probably can get a hold of wilwoods even cheaper than some of that junk. Any wilwood dealer can you get the front 14" kit for $1598 or cheaper, because that is msrp.

 

Is that for a DIY kit or the 350z specific kit... because the specific kit is about $500 higher on their website.

Wilwood 350z Kit

Also, I heard somewhere the Megans were a rebranded kit. Anyone know for sure.

 

Checking to see, but we maybe able to get the 350Z stoptech kit for a GREATLY reduced price. I am suppose to know by COB today.

The kits would include:
ST60 14" rotor Front, red or black, slotted
ST40 14" rotor Front, red or black, slotted
ST40 13.1" rotor Front, red or black, slotted

ST41, 14" rotor rear, red or black, slotted
ST45, 14" rotor rear, red or black, slotted
ST22, 13" rotor rear, red or black, slotted

 

Thats the kit i have on the front of my car, going rate is around $1600. But for a track monster with slicks and 500hp i would get the next higher kit was sells for around $2k. (wasn't available when i bought mine)

 

Ok, got the official prices

These are for FULL KITS (FRONT and REAR)

ST40/ST45 kit small front rotor kit $3500
ST40/ST45 14" kit $3800
ST60/ST45 kit $4100

this does not include shipping.

 

which brake kit would you suggest for me? id like to build my Z for Nasa's Super Touring class but i couldnt find a power to weight ratio standard on their website, you wouldnt happen to know would you? and is the super touring class to rich for a privateer? My projected weight is gonna be below 3000 pounds so i wouldnt imagine i would need huge rotors for cooling but i could definitely be wrong. plus smaller rotors would keep unsprung weight down

 

Super Touring, both 1 and 2 are big money classes. They are wide open for mods, all they have are weight/hp limits that are adjusted based on a few factors like tire width, body design, drivetrain, etc. Unless I missed it, you havent told us your driving experience. ST1 is 5.5:1, ST2 is 8.7:1. Your weight includes you in full gear, minimal fuel, etc.

Joseph
NASA Florida PT/ST Director

 

Mixseed....if want to keep the budget under high 5 figures or more. I'd look more towards PTB (NASA) or T2 (SCCA). Unfortunately to be compliant with T2 you won't be overly competitive in PTB, and to be competitive in PTB you won't be legal for t2.....most likely. The luxury of PTB is that you can run TTB (Time trials) as well if you please.

 

Here are the current copy for NASA ST1 and ST2.
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/Super-Touring.pdf

basically it's
Super Touring R1 (STR1) = “Adjusted” Wt/Hp ratio equal to, or greater than, 5.50:1
Super Touring R2 (STR2) = “Adjusted” Wt/Hp ratio equal to, or greater than, 8.70:1

ST1 is a high dollar class, and ST2 is just slightly cheaper. In both classes it isn't all about power but also the full car setup. Read the rules and see if that is really wher you want to be. A similar class may bt Performace touring, where the cars are classed with similar ones and a lot closer to stock.

As far as the brakes go, you not only need to look at overall vehicle weight but also application. Brake capacity is based on Kenetic energy so speed differences also play a big role. If you are making a lot of 140+ MPH to 20 MPH stops you need a larger application. David is our brake engineer so he can give you a much better answer than I can, but I have heard that the mid range set work for about 90% of the racers out there.

 

so, at this point, it sounds like my best bet would be to build a competitive car solely for PTB after reading about it. and like you said, i can also run time trials which i really enjoy. thanks!

 

i have very little experience with road courses so i will have to begin with HPDE and then qualify for a competitive license. since ST1 is out of reach, performance touring sounds like the next best thing, but will they allow 500 hp? cause i could always stick with the stock engine (id rather not tho)

 

try the HPDE/TT thing for a while then make the decision about the 500 HP.

 

PTA also has a 8.7:1 cap, PTB is 10.25:1. So no, 500 isnt possible.

 

#1...drive HPDE until they MAKE YOU MOVE UP because you are so fast that you are a menace to normal humans dur to your impressive speeds

#2...buy your 1st race car, don't build it.

#3...ummm...read some rules books....

 

OK, That made me laugh

Unless you just enjoy the building and spening lots of money that you will never get back in a resale this is the way to go. Let someone else go through the trials and steep learning curves os a good build and it's also a LOT cheaper.



Already been said...

Laze, are you going to be at CMP in two weeks?

 

Nope,,,normally too dayum cold for me to run CMP in February. Road Atlanta in March is my 1st real race event...I just ran the ChumpCar event @ Roebling this past weekend...now that was some fun.

And getting back on topic: I suggest to MixSeed that if he wants to find out about W2W racing cheap, and RIGHT NOW...

rent a seat in a ChumpCar or Lemons race.

http://forum.chumpcar.com/index.php?...drivers-teams/

 

While Cump and Lemons is a lot of fun. I think I would suggest renting a SpecE30 or Spec Miata to get a real sense of W2W. You can rent a Spec E30 pretty cheap now, relativley speaking.

 

Hey MixSeed,

I invite you to spend a day as a "honorary" crew member at the Track with me in my NASA PTB race car...that should give some great real-world info to base your plans on...

Next event for me is Road Atlanta March 11-13

http://nasa-se.com/

 

I cost me $700 rental for about 5 hours of track time over 2 days in a CrapCan Z32. The deal with ChumpCar (at least at this specific event) is that it is like racing W2W at HPDE speeds (slow cars and street tires). I think it would be a good place for a NOOB to get their feet wet.

Note 1: Definition: NOOB to W2W, with plenty of HPDE experience...

Note 2: However, I was collected by a guy who didn't check his mirrors when I was overtaking him (he admitted it). But I didn't care since I was in a rented CrapCan with no crash-it-and-you-bought-it rental clause
And we where not going real fast...

 

haha holy ****! thanks bro! ill definitely try to make it. im taking everyones advice and spending the budget on brakes, wheels, tires, and a roll cage first. im definitely gonna hold off on the motor swap at this point because its gonna be impossible to qualify for PTA after reading the rules. what brakes are you running?? from what people have said on here, id be safe using a set of oem brembos with race fluid and track pads rather than an AP racing kit or something comparable. if i can go the brembo way, id like to buy just the calipers and then get some 2-piece rotors you said something earlier about buying a track car, but id much rather build a car even tho it would be less of headache and less expensive. its more fun and ill learn a lot more this way