Track wheels
WTF? I'm just trying to learn as much as I can, I can't track the f--- car right now cause it's winter so why not educate myself? I'm buying brakes and 18" wheels right now, the rest is just me trying to learn. If you don't want to help, don't post, it's not rocket science
He was trying to help...the worst thing you can do is try and make the car "better" before you experience a track event. By doing so, you are only masking your flaws as a beginner. Get some good brakes, a good street tire on your factory wheels, and go have fun. You factory staggered setup will be fine in the beginning. Get some events under your belt and from there you can start doing more modifications as you get faster.
I'm getting brakes and wheels, not gonna use up the tires I just put on my stock wheels. Maybe I should rephrase the question. What do most people prefer for a traction device when tracking. I'm not going to go out and buy one, just trying to learn what I can since I'm a noob to tracking
I have a set of 9.5/10.5 matte black RPF1 wheels in +15 offset that I thought were sold today but the buyer decided on another set of mine.
I also think a friend is selling his set of matte black 9.5 +15 (all four) RPF1s if interested. They have 275/35 Kumho XS tires, which are great for a beginner.
Or I still have my OEM set of 18x8.5 06+ wheels with/without 265/35 RT615s.
I also think a friend is selling his set of matte black 9.5 +15 (all four) RPF1s if interested. They have 275/35 Kumho XS tires, which are great for a beginner.
Or I still have my OEM set of 18x8.5 06+ wheels with/without 265/35 RT615s.
so another question, will a 275/35 on a 9.5" wheel fit ok in the front wheel well for tracking, given body roll when turning?
and, off topic more but, whats better for track use, open differential or a limited slip? initially i would think lsd, but i dont want to be having a ton of oversteer because of it. i understand that for oversteer, you give it more gas to shift weight to the back, and for understeer you lift throttle/lightly brake to shift weight forward.
and, off topic more but, whats better for track use, open differential or a limited slip? initially i would think lsd, but i dont want to be having a ton of oversteer because of it. i understand that for oversteer, you give it more gas to shift weight to the back, and for understeer you lift throttle/lightly brake to shift weight forward.
actually on the lsd you got it in the wrong way IMHO, with a proper limited slip you get understeer because you actually have the rear "external" that is able to push the car and increase the weight transfer... more weight on that wheel, more traction and reduced traction to the front external...
with an open diff as soon as you start cornering properly you don't have any traction in the rear internal that will spin, you'll lose momentum from tire scrub in the corner and transfer weight to the front... and oversteer.
don't get fooled by lsd = drifting...
a drifter car is a car with A LOT of understeer dialed in, that makes a POWER OVERSTEER really controllable, a naturally neutral or oversteering car is way more tricky to control sideway... that is one of the reason why porsche guys are prone to spin a lot on a road course and why on the "streetable" porsches
(non GT2/GT3 models) the ESP kicks in while braking even if it's disabled.
it depends.
there is no simple "yes/no" answer.
depends on the suspension height (stock or "x" inches lower)
depends on the camber...
bottom line...
if you use a "conservative offset ( +35/+30 ) and GOOD wheel studs ( ARP ) it's easier to adjust using hubcentric spacers 3/5/10mm...
if you start with an aggressive offset (+15/+12) there is no way to go back and you might need to compromise optimal setups of ride height and camber to make it work.
the only way to properly know is just to try.
there is no simple "yes/no" answer.
depends on the suspension height (stock or "x" inches lower)
depends on the camber...
bottom line...
if you use a "conservative offset ( +35/+30 ) and GOOD wheel studs ( ARP ) it's easier to adjust using hubcentric spacers 3/5/10mm...
if you start with an aggressive offset (+15/+12) there is no way to go back and you might need to compromise optimal setups of ride height and camber to make it work.
the only way to properly know is just to try.
it depends.
there is no simple "yes/no" answer.
depends on the suspension height (stock or "x" inches lower)
depends on the camber...
bottom line...
if you use a "conservative offset ( +35/+30 ) and GOOD wheel studs ( ARP ) it's easier to adjust using hubcentric spacers 3/5/10mm...
if you start with an aggressive offset (+15/+12) there is no way to go back and you might need to compromise optimal setups of ride height and camber to make it work.
the only way to properly know is just to try.
there is no simple "yes/no" answer.
depends on the suspension height (stock or "x" inches lower)
depends on the camber...
bottom line...
if you use a "conservative offset ( +35/+30 ) and GOOD wheel studs ( ARP ) it's easier to adjust using hubcentric spacers 3/5/10mm...
if you start with an aggressive offset (+15/+12) there is no way to go back and you might need to compromise optimal setups of ride height and camber to make it work.
the only way to properly know is just to try.
cool, thanks. got a deal on a set of rims with +12, I have to do some more research. maybe a 265-35
I am pretty low with about -2* of camber up front. I know you can't say for sure, but what is your gut feeling on fitment? I was really hoping to not use spacers, but I guess if I had to I could use some ichiba v2s if it's necessary, but I'd rather not for track use
Last edited by mgrotel; Feb 6, 2011 at 07:48 AM.
it depends.
there is no simple "yes/no" answer.
depends on the suspension height (stock or "x" inches lower)
depends on the camber...
bottom line...
if you use a "conservative offset ( +35/+30 ) and GOOD wheel studs ( ARP ) it's easier to adjust using hubcentric spacers 3/5/10mm...
if you start with an aggressive offset (+15/+12) there is no way to go back and you might need to compromise optimal setups of ride height and camber to make it work.
the only way to properly know is just to try.
there is no simple "yes/no" answer.
depends on the suspension height (stock or "x" inches lower)
depends on the camber...
bottom line...
if you use a "conservative offset ( +35/+30 ) and GOOD wheel studs ( ARP ) it's easier to adjust using hubcentric spacers 3/5/10mm...
if you start with an aggressive offset (+15/+12) there is no way to go back and you might need to compromise optimal setups of ride height and camber to make it work.
the only way to properly know is just to try.
Last edited by terrasmak; Feb 6, 2011 at 08:57 AM.







