Racequip makes very reasonable FIA certified harnesses that many of the cheap Porsche guys buy.

 

Seems a good time to have this discussion again

When you start talking about safety, and harnesses in particular, you cannot just look at the individual components. You MUST look at the overall system and what you are personally willing to risk.

To answer your question: no, you don't have to buy all those components at the same time. But anytime you try to piecemeal a safety system, you will have to compromise something, somewhere. In this case, your "system" would include the following components:

• Stock seat
• Harness
• Harness bar

With this system, as you've already figured out, you are having to make the following compromises:

1. Harness mounting
2. Harness shoulder strap angle
3. Harness lap belt & anti-submarine belt mounting points
4. Anti-submarine belt placement and angle
5. Reduction of effectiveness of stock active & passive restraint systems

As I've asked many posters in many similar threads... what are your reasons for wanting to install harnesses? And do those reasons warrant the compromises?

If you want to see some more threads, and more of my opinions on the subject (of which there are plenty!), just do a search for "Stack" and "Harnesses" or "Harness Bar"

 

Tbh, you seem to waffle around alot and shop by stream of conciousness and without searching - all of this stuff has been discussed a lot over the years. First you can't afford a $400 harness bar, then you're looking at a $400 roll bar, which is much more expensive to put in in the first place? Just doesn't make a lot of sense. I understand you're new and I understand you are trying, but if you don't take the time to study the answers and how they correspond to the rules you are bound by in your SCCA book, you're just going to get more confused. If I were in your shoes I would specifically consult your SCCA rule book, and then buy what matches. At 5 foot 6, you are bound to be sitting fairly close to the steering wheel, and ideally you will want the longer of the 2 harness options if so offered, as this will give you the most adjustment. My experience is most of the shorter harnesses are best suited for smaller cars (Miata, CRX, etc). You can measure this for yourself and find it out.

The stock Z seat has no provision for the 5th point, nor do you even need a 5 point harness for auto-x

 

dunno how i missed all those threads...I've been searching all day, "harness", "harness bar", "Roll bar", "4 pt roll bar", "sparco harness bar", "BCR harness bar", " how to install blah blah" and etc..
Getting all together might be a good answer...
@Z1 i meant i would rather get $400 roll bar IF $400 harness bar is the only choice. I thought installing a bolt in roll bar isn't impossbile by myself as i read many threads different forums said it's a easy installation.
Also, because i saw so many people saying you don't wanna get anything less than 5 pt harness, i'm looking at 5 or 6 point harness. it wouldn't hurt to have one more point for $10 more. Who knows i might end up in high class in Autox or drifting lol. i know that stock seats don't have the little cut for the 5th point of harness. That's why i'm getting a race seat that has it, such as Aero Design notus.
I will go ahead and measure the length but what do you think about 50" shoulder straps? Looks like that's the length for crow scca sedan restraint.
Corbeau's harness was like 70" max. seems to be too long

 

Let's put it this way... no matter the length of the harness strap, the best installation means keeping the length as short as reasonably and practically possible. The longer the length of the belt, the more chance of it moving out of place in the event of an impact.

The really short belts are probably designed for formula cars and sports racers where the pointing point is immediately behind the shoulders. Really long belts are generally for 4-door sedan racers where the roll bar and harness mounting point might be significantly farther back in the car (like a rear bulkhead.)

 

if your planning on running a bucket, recommended that you use a roll bar at least, also look at the roll bars out there, as auto power is weld in not bolt in. I found that out after i bought mine. Im also using crow 6 point with my setup

 

oh ho! i found a cheaper way.
http://www.aerodesignsusa.com/productsNOTUS.html this seat with CG lock!
What do you guys think? I talked to a guy from AD and he said that it could be hard to use stock belt with Notus but someone has done it.
CG lock would be used temporarily for like 2 months until i get harness bar

 

stay away from the nrg bar. mine didnt fit a all. i think they had an early version error or something and fixed the issue.

 

If it's fixed, then it'll fit lol.
I might just grab cg lock for now because all i wanted was keeping my body planted

 

CG Lock + thick tool drawer grippy-liner will do the trick

 

I run a CG Lock+Bride Cuga. Works well.

 

personally i wouldnt run anything not FIA certified for the track, its your life on the line. Not sure about other brands but i know bride and sparco brackets can use the stock seatbelt.

 

delete

 

SFI vs FIA cert? Clue me in, buying my own stuff soon.

 

Are you referring to seat or belts when you refer to "anything not FIA" certified?

I agree that for track use, FIA certified seat is the way to go but for belts I think SFI or FIA standard (FIA more expensive but able to use longer) should be fine as long as within dates.

 

SFI is a more American-centric standards organization. The develop standards for all aspects of motorsports.

http://www.sfifoundation.com/

FIA is a similar organization, but more international and more of a sanctioning body as opposed to just a regulatory body.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F%C3%A9...l%27Automobile

Most clubs and organizations accept both standards. The more competitive an event, the stricter they are about requiring the standards, and what kind of grace period one has with regard to a product's expiration date (this is what FIA standards list, and is usually a 5 year date FROM the date of manufacture) or manufacture date (this is what SFI labels products with, and clubs might have 2 yr limits, or 5 year limits, or no limits at all on how long you can use a product after its manufacture date.

There are specific regulations that govern specific products. Some deal with fire resistance (the important things in helmet and roll bar padding certifications [31.1, 45.1]), some deal with strength and safety (cage nets & head/neck restraints [37.1, 38.1].

Most driving schools don't have stipulations that something must be certified. Some do though, so it's imperative that you check with whatever organization you plan on participating with as to what spec they look for.

 

sorry didnt mean just fia, just forgot to mention sfi, but i wouldnt use anything not rated.

 

i don't wanna make a new thread so i'll ask a question here regarding the harness bar.
For those of you who have the race seat down to the floor, how do you go about placing the harness bar so that it's horizontal to the seat? There is interference with rear speaker so the bar can't be lowered as much you drop the seat.

 

I will only add this, don't skimp on safety equipment. If you think the bars or belts are just for show or something cool for your car, think again.

I have seen some pretty horrific crashes that people have had on tracks and they were good drivers. It's not always the driver that causes the crash, so take this stuff seriously. If you are going to track the car, get a roll bar, not a harness bar. Also, make damn sure your harnesses are installed correctly and with an anti-sub belt! I have seen incorretly installed harnesses kill two drivers that were involved in relatively survivable crashes.

Also, don't forget a good helmet. Notice I didn't say just a helmet. Get the lightest one you can find and make sure it is SA2005 rated or better. You really don't want one older than that. For those that don't know, the SA rating gives you some fire protection inside the helmet, as opposed to the M rated helmets, which don't. You'll want the lightest helmet you can find for two simple reasons. 1) You reduce neck strain and fatigue as your day goes on and 2) should you have a crash, you are reducing the possible inertia that can cause an injury.

Lastly, get a HANS or similar device. If you are going to argue that you don't need one or that you are so strong that you can withstand what it protects against, well.......forget everything I just wrote, go put the hammer down and don't brake until you see God. (gotta thin the herd somehow).

 

Hard bar harness bar + sparco 5 or 6 point harness will do the trick.