I am going to be running Hoosiers for the first time this season because I will be competing for the first time this season with NASA. I am going to be running R6's. I have read the tire care tips on Hoosier's webpage and I understand their break in procedure and "cure" time. My only concern is that I have seen a lot of people just slap the tires on at the track and go. I can somewhat understand this because if you follow the break in procedure you have to let your new tires sit for 24 hours after the break in run to "cure". That would mean you would need to have a second set of wheels with another set of Hoosier's or whatever tires to run while your new ones "cure". That's a good chunk of money to have all that, but it looks like I may be heading that way eventually, but I cannot right now.

I am just curious if any of you guys do this or just slap them on and go.

I guess since this is my first set of Hoosiers I shouldn't run into this from here on out. I can just break in the next set in between sessions while still using the current ones.

I am still intereseted though on how you guys do it.

 

Do you have a large parking lot near by? Sustained figure 8's. Problem will be getting enough heat in the rears....may have to swap midway.

 

I have another set of wheels myself, but more recently I've simply ordered them cured from The Tire Rack. If you don't go through the curing procedure, I believe they simply won't last as long is all, but grip is not compromised. If you are racing on them for a session then dumping them, A) let me know when you are done with them and B) the cure should not matter.

How long are your sessions? I see some of the guys running the A compound versus the B for shorter sessions.

 

^Since he runs NASA TT....he may not have the points to spare for A's..

 

I cannot add any more points. I'm maxxed out.

Unfortunately I have no parking lots nearby that I could actually get away with doing that in either.

I wish I could buy them cured from Tirerack, but I can't. To be able to participate in the Hoosier contingecy I have to purchase them from an "approved vendor". I will check to see if some of them offer them cured. If not I think I'm just going to run them the first session on Friday since it's a practice day and then take them off and let them sit the full 24 hours until Saturday morning. I will just use my R888's in the mean time to get some practice in.

Oh yea, the TT sessions are normally 15 minutes and sometimes 20. 5 per day.

 

So A6s add more points than R6s, or did I misunderstand something?

 

A6's are +3 over R6's.

 

Got it. And V710s?

 

Same as R6.

Edit...does Kumho have contingencies for TT....I'm not sure that they do?

 

Throw them on as stickers and go! That seems to be what everyone does here anyway...after 9 - 12 heat cycles, they are "chemically" done anyway. After that, they are decent enough for practice.

 

I'm in a similar position, thinking of running Hoosiers soon so I asked around at the last track event.....most don't bother and just run them w/o "curing" them. Others say to "cure" them just put them on the car, get on the highway and drive around for 20mins or so.

Is your classification based on a dyno re-class? If not you could be leaving valuable points on the table.
For me, it made a HUGE difference. Here are some concrete/actual examples of 350Z Dyno Re-classings:

Max Whp/Comp Weight/Final Class/Base Tire Size
235whp / 3195 lbs. / TTD* / 245mm
240whp / 3260 lbs. / TTD* / 245mm
260whp / 3360 lbs. / TTD** / 245mm
306whp / 3190 lbs. / TTB / 265mm

Here in Florida Region, many of the more competitive drivers run based on dyno re-class. From my perspective the re-classing makes the Z very competitive and for your specific case it may allow you to run the A6s.

Get your car on a dyno ($75) and see where you land (ok, its not that simple, the re-class procedure is very specific but simple enough).

 

I'm actually in the process of getting a re-class. I got an email to the head TT guy Greg. I don't have many engine mods, but 5 points worth that I am trying to get removed because my power/weight is at the top of TTC and I'm running TTB. That will allow me to run my SPL A-arms. I have them on now, but I am doing everything I can to not have to take them off.

By the way driving on the highway might do the trick, but I don't think it will get them hot enough unless you can swerve back and forth a lot aggressively towards the end of the break in.

 

I was going to upgrade my front cusco a-arms to the SPL but it would be another +3 for the spherical bushings..so basically its +7 for the SPL Front-Arms

 

Hey Dominick if you need a help swapping wheels/tires I'd be willing to help crew for you haha. Although I won't be at the April event cuz of finals

 

Nice, I'm interested to know what your re-class ends up being...keep us posted. I bet you'll have no problem staying in TTC w/ the A-arms.

Wow, that's good to know cause I was under the impression that the +3 for suspension bushings was not applicable if already taking points for E.9? This must mean that the SPLs have metallic/spherical bushings for joints other than the allowed/excempt "control arm spindle/knuckle."

It's too bad no one sells bushings that would provide more negative camber for the Z, I just need -1 more and I'd be happy....a no point mod. I think betamotorsports made some one-offs for his car, wish I could get my hands on those w/o having to buy the whole car =)

 

Yea this was his response in an email I sent last week:

"Those would be +4 for the control arms, and +3 for the spherical bearings. There are spherical bearings connecting to the spindle/knuckle, but also on the inboard side connecting to the subframe, causing the +3 point assessment. "

 

Ha ha I appreciate it man, but I'll be good. I will be doing everything once I'm parked and not in the pit lane.

WOW +7 points. I thought the SPL's were just +4 or +3. I know sphearical adds points, but I thought that was included in the A-arm points. They are in the sway bar points for the endlinks. I have SPL endlinks.

Some of the NASA points are insane. I mean is 7 points really worth it. Thats more than the difference would be going from R888's to A6's. I would much rather make that jump that a 7 point camber arm.

I am running 275 square R6's which is a +4 for being 20mm over the TTC base class. I thought about running 255 sqaure A6's which would actually be -1 from where I am because that is the TTC size and running the A6's would be a +3.

 

9) Replace or modify control arms (other than plates, shims, slots, or eccentric bolts/bushings
for simple camber/caster adjustment only) or RWD/AWD rear trailing arms (may have
spherical/metallic joint for the connection to the spindle/knuckle) +4

Just pulled this from the TT rules. A-arms are +4. It says you can have sphearical joints, but thats to the spindle which is fine, but it also has sphearical joints at the frame. So I gues that is more points.

 

If you're running 18's then i think it's a wise move to look at the 255's since they're basically the same width as the 275's.

 

Yup. 255 or jump to 285, as they are wide mothers. I have no idea what that would do for points, but I see a lot of guys running on the 255 R6s.