Here's the link to the Centric site stating the increased molybdenum.

http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...186&Itemid=232

I ended buying some Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, $152 shipped for the front pair from RockAuto. I'll let people know how they work out...

 

To the weekend warriors, do you drive to events on street rotors/pads and swap to your race set-up at the track?

Or do you run a compromising set-up, for instance, I run Hawk HP+ on the street and track. Its annoying on the street but nothing like a full race pad would be, and still work "okay" on track.

However; Im about to finish my set of HP+ and I'd like to make the jump to DTC or Blue, but not sure I want the hassle of changing set-ups before and after events.

 

I used to use two sets of pads. It's actually cheaper in the long run. Track pads last 3X to 4X longer on track but die quickly running cold. Street pads, even HP+'s go away pretty quick on track.

So sometimes I would change at the track when I got there, other times I would change them the night before. Over all a quick change is less than an hour once you have a routine set up.

 

Excellent - thanks!

I've heard good things about the StopTech Sport pads (ST 329?). A lot of the local guys use them as an all-in-one pad successfully. I know that's too good to be true for a track junkie, but maybe they are good enough for the bulk of drivers using their car for double duty. I have been leaving the track pads on since my car isn't a DD, but I do like having a street pad in there for autox events.

Agreed, except that I have to wrestle to get the dowels threaded on my 8 year old Stoptech ST40 kit. Usually the fronts take me an hour on their own now, and the rears (Brembos) are quick-and-easy; 20 minutes tops for both sides.

 

Yeah I talked to a buddy who does this on his Mustang, he'll swap rotors and pads a day or 2 before the event.

He even reiterated what mhoward said, race pads will crumble when they are cold.

The car isn't my DD, so Id have no issues doing it the day or night before an event.

Makes sense.

 

Swap them at home, drive to the track (60-100 miles one way). I haven't noticed significant wear of the pads or rotors with these distances with a wide variety of brakes (e.g. Hawk, Ferodo, Carbotech, EBC, Raybestos) Stopping performance is less than optimal, but not scary.

 

I keep my Raybestos ST43's on fulltime and drive the car to events (20-50miles). No noticeable wear on the pads, however, rotors don't like it.

 

I cracked my front stoptech one piece rotors in 6 events. They had spider cracks in 2 events but on the 6th event both front rotors had long ample cracks through the rotor.

 

Ok guys just picked up a set of Brembo's (yay!) and looking at rotors again.

For my standard 05 brakes I ran the standard centric premium with carbotech pads for the last two years and haven't had any issues. Just wondering if I should do the same with Brembo's or go for the high performance rotors.

What are everyone's thoughts on the "high performance power alloy" blanks that have increased molybdenum content which has Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2043666

vs

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1279816

Price is about the same

 

subscribed!

I just bought 2pc Stoptechs for my front and kept it aside only for trackdays (gonna be using track pads along with it)

Since rear brakes don't work as hard as the fronts, I'm using 1 pc slotted Stoptech at with a bit more aggressive street pads.

You guys also swap out rotors/pads for short runs like AutoX and Time Attacks/Speed tests???

 

I run centric premium with carbotech RP2 pads....works great...however the others may be a littler better...but cost a little more...hard to say which is better.

 

I normally use the Centric premiums or one of the Raybestos. Since I put brake ducts on the car, my rotors lasted from April until Nats without warping at all. It's just not worth it to buy two piece rotors unless they will last an entire season or more. You can buy a couple sets of cheap blanks that will last longer. I would love to try some 2 pieces sometime though. If I can go an entire season without having to buy any rotors, then it will be worth it to me.

 

When I used to drive my car to the track in HPDE, I just left my Carbotech XP-8s on the car with rotors all the time. However, my car was not my DD. I drove it on the weekends and it was put up in the winter. If it was my DD< I would have probably swapped rotors and pads between events.

 

I've found that 2-piece rotors are worth the initial cost. I was warping 1 piece rotors after a few events, issue gone when I switched to 2 piece.

 

Quick question:
Are 2-piece rotors help reducing pads knockback problem?

 

Hmmm...interesting question. I never thought about that.

 

I dont know much about knockback but I would think it would reduce it since it allows the disk a little "wiggle room" from the hub.

 

That's what I think too. I changed my 2 piece into 1 piece and I noticed I have the knockback problem very often. I had no confidence ever since with any late braking.

I was thinking I was pushing my car too hard into corners (causing knockback) since I am a bit faster than before on lap time. I will change back to the 2 piece and see if it makes a difference.

 

Does anyone even make two piece for the non-brembo?? I have both Brembo and non. I am doing some experimenting and putting the Non-brembo back on.

 

I don't believe there is a 2-piece for non-brembo. At least for the '03s last time I looked.


I ran drilled rotors last year (was a good deal from a local manufacture), and they lasted about 4 events until I put multiple cracks in all 4 corners... This year will be OEM blanks. I figure if they last a season I am happy.


Also, if you are not running a brake duct, do so! I can't remember the exact figures, but last year I put in basic ducts and reduced my rotor temps nearly 25% in back-to-back sessions. Thats just hose in the bumper, pointing at the back of the hub, nothing fancy.