Track Rotors
#21
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Here's the link to the Centric site stating the increased molybdenum.
http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...186&Itemid=232
I ended buying some Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, $152 shipped for the front pair from RockAuto. I'll let people know how they work out...
http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...186&Itemid=232
I ended buying some Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, $152 shipped for the front pair from RockAuto. I'll let people know how they work out...
#22
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To the weekend warriors, do you drive to events on street rotors/pads and swap to your race set-up at the track?
Or do you run a compromising set-up, for instance, I run Hawk HP+ on the street and track. Its annoying on the street but nothing like a full race pad would be, and still work "okay" on track.
However; Im about to finish my set of HP+ and I'd like to make the jump to DTC or Blue, but not sure I want the hassle of changing set-ups before and after events.
Or do you run a compromising set-up, for instance, I run Hawk HP+ on the street and track. Its annoying on the street but nothing like a full race pad would be, and still work "okay" on track.
However; Im about to finish my set of HP+ and I'd like to make the jump to DTC or Blue, but not sure I want the hassle of changing set-ups before and after events.
#23
I used to use two sets of pads. It's actually cheaper in the long run. Track pads last 3X to 4X longer on track but die quickly running cold. Street pads, even HP+'s go away pretty quick on track.
So sometimes I would change at the track when I got there, other times I would change them the night before. Over all a quick change is less than an hour once you have a routine set up.
So sometimes I would change at the track when I got there, other times I would change them the night before. Over all a quick change is less than an hour once you have a routine set up.
#24
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Here's the link to the Centric site stating the increased molybdenum.
http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...186&Itemid=232
I ended buying some Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, $152 shipped for the front pair from RockAuto. I'll let people know how they work out...
http://www.centricparts.com/index.ph...186&Itemid=232
I ended buying some Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, $152 shipped for the front pair from RockAuto. I'll let people know how they work out...
To the weekend warriors, do you drive to events on street rotors/pads and swap to your race set-up at the track?
Or do you run a compromising set-up, for instance, I run Hawk HP+ on the street and track. Its annoying on the street but nothing like a full race pad would be, and still work "okay" on track.
However; Im about to finish my set of HP+ and I'd like to make the jump to DTC or Blue, but not sure I want the hassle of changing set-ups before and after events.
Or do you run a compromising set-up, for instance, I run Hawk HP+ on the street and track. Its annoying on the street but nothing like a full race pad would be, and still work "okay" on track.
However; Im about to finish my set of HP+ and I'd like to make the jump to DTC or Blue, but not sure I want the hassle of changing set-ups before and after events.
I used to use two sets of pads. It's actually cheaper in the long run. Track pads last 3X to 4X longer on track but die quickly running cold. Street pads, even HP+'s go away pretty quick on track.
So sometimes I would change at the track when I got there, other times I would change them the night before. Over all a quick change is less than an hour once you have a routine set up.
So sometimes I would change at the track when I got there, other times I would change them the night before. Over all a quick change is less than an hour once you have a routine set up.
#25
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Yeah I talked to a buddy who does this on his Mustang, he'll swap rotors and pads a day or 2 before the event.
He even reiterated what mhoward said, race pads will crumble when they are cold.
The car isn't my DD, so Id have no issues doing it the day or night before an event.
Makes sense.
He even reiterated what mhoward said, race pads will crumble when they are cold.
The car isn't my DD, so Id have no issues doing it the day or night before an event.
Makes sense.
Last edited by RandomHer0; 05-25-2011 at 07:45 AM.
#26
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Swap them at home, drive to the track (60-100 miles one way). I haven't noticed significant wear of the pads or rotors with these distances with a wide variety of brakes (e.g. Hawk, Ferodo, Carbotech, EBC, Raybestos) Stopping performance is less than optimal, but not scary.
To the weekend warriors, do you drive to events on street rotors/pads and swap to your race set-up at the track?
Or do you run a compromising set-up, for instance, I run Hawk HP+ on the street and track. Its annoying on the street but nothing like a full race pad would be, and still work "okay" on track.
However; Im about to finish my set of HP+ and I'd like to make the jump to DTC or Blue, but not sure I want the hassle of changing set-ups before and after events.
Or do you run a compromising set-up, for instance, I run Hawk HP+ on the street and track. Its annoying on the street but nothing like a full race pad would be, and still work "okay" on track.
However; Im about to finish my set of HP+ and I'd like to make the jump to DTC or Blue, but not sure I want the hassle of changing set-ups before and after events.
#29
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Ok guys just picked up a set of Brembo's (yay!) and looking at rotors again.
For my standard 05 brakes I ran the standard centric premium with carbotech pads for the last two years and haven't had any issues. Just wondering if I should do the same with Brembo's or go for the high performance rotors.
What are everyone's thoughts on the "high performance power alloy" blanks that have increased molybdenum content which has Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2043666
vs
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1279816
Price is about the same
For my standard 05 brakes I ran the standard centric premium with carbotech pads for the last two years and haven't had any issues. Just wondering if I should do the same with Brembo's or go for the high performance rotors.
What are everyone's thoughts on the "high performance power alloy" blanks that have increased molybdenum content which has Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2043666
vs
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1279816
Price is about the same
#30
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subscribed!
I just bought 2pc Stoptechs for my front and kept it aside only for trackdays (gonna be using track pads along with it)
Since rear brakes don't work as hard as the fronts, I'm using 1 pc slotted Stoptech at with a bit more aggressive street pads.
You guys also swap out rotors/pads for short runs like AutoX and Time Attacks/Speed tests???
I just bought 2pc Stoptechs for my front and kept it aside only for trackdays (gonna be using track pads along with it)
Since rear brakes don't work as hard as the fronts, I'm using 1 pc slotted Stoptech at with a bit more aggressive street pads.
You guys also swap out rotors/pads for short runs like AutoX and Time Attacks/Speed tests???
Last edited by 350Zdj; 02-07-2012 at 09:57 PM.
#31
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I run centric premium with carbotech RP2 pads....works great...however the others may be a littler better...but cost a little more...hard to say which is better.
Ok guys just picked up a set of Brembo's (yay!) and looking at rotors again.
For my standard 05 brakes I ran the standard centric premium with carbotech pads for the last two years and haven't had any issues. Just wondering if I should do the same with Brembo's or go for the high performance rotors.
What are everyone's thoughts on the "high performance power alloy" blanks that have increased molybdenum content which has Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2043666
vs
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1279816
Price is about the same
For my standard 05 brakes I ran the standard centric premium with carbotech pads for the last two years and haven't had any issues. Just wondering if I should do the same with Brembo's or go for the high performance rotors.
What are everyone's thoughts on the "high performance power alloy" blanks that have increased molybdenum content which has Superior resistance to cracking due to thermal stress?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2043666
vs
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1279816
Price is about the same
#32
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I normally use the Centric premiums or one of the Raybestos. Since I put brake ducts on the car, my rotors lasted from April until Nats without warping at all. It's just not worth it to buy two piece rotors unless they will last an entire season or more. You can buy a couple sets of cheap blanks that will last longer. I would love to try some 2 pieces sometime though. If I can go an entire season without having to buy any rotors, then it will be worth it to me.
#33
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subscribed!
I just bought 2pc Stoptechs for my front and kept it aside only for trackdays (gonna be using track pads along with it)
Since rear brakes don't work as hard as the fronts, I'm using 1 pc slotted Stoptech at with a bit more aggressive street pads.
You guys also swap out rotors/pads for short runs like AutoX and Time Attacks/Speed tests???
I just bought 2pc Stoptechs for my front and kept it aside only for trackdays (gonna be using track pads along with it)
Since rear brakes don't work as hard as the fronts, I'm using 1 pc slotted Stoptech at with a bit more aggressive street pads.
You guys also swap out rotors/pads for short runs like AutoX and Time Attacks/Speed tests???
#38
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I was thinking I was pushing my car too hard into corners (causing knockback) since I am a bit faster than before on lap time. I will change back to the 2 piece and see if it makes a difference.
#40
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I don't believe there is a 2-piece for non-brembo. At least for the '03s last time I looked.
I ran drilled rotors last year (was a good deal from a local manufacture), and they lasted about 4 events until I put multiple cracks in all 4 corners... This year will be OEM blanks. I figure if they last a season I am happy.
Also, if you are not running a brake duct, do so! I can't remember the exact figures, but last year I put in basic ducts and reduced my rotor temps nearly 25% in back-to-back sessions. Thats just hose in the bumper, pointing at the back of the hub, nothing fancy.
I ran drilled rotors last year (was a good deal from a local manufacture), and they lasted about 4 events until I put multiple cracks in all 4 corners... This year will be OEM blanks. I figure if they last a season I am happy.
Also, if you are not running a brake duct, do so! I can't remember the exact figures, but last year I put in basic ducts and reduced my rotor temps nearly 25% in back-to-back sessions. Thats just hose in the bumper, pointing at the back of the hub, nothing fancy.