Time to replace rotors again due to heat stress cracking. I'm currently running Centric Premiums and have about 12 track days on them.

I'm looking ideally for blanks (would consider slotted, but prefer blanks) that are more heat crack resistant as that is what is forcing me to replace them; there is still plenty of thickness. The Centric Power Alloy rotors look ideal, more Molybdenum and directional vanes, but no one seems to have them in stock. Can anyone comments on these rotors?

Any other recommendations for value oriented rotors (i.e. probably not two piece or DBAs unless cheaper in the long run) for track use? Any success with cryo'ing say Centric Regular or Premiums in terms of reducing heat stress cracks?

Did some searches and found lots of results, but not finding much specifically for track use...

 

I don't think you can beat the Centric Premiums for value...especially if you buy them from Rock Auto.xom and use the discount coupons...

that is what I run in NASA W2W racing...

12 track days is a BUNCH for a big *** Z-car rotors to last...

 

I used Centric's for awhile. They did okay, but I kept having warping issues too often. I just switched to some Raybestos blanks also bought from Rockauto. Still pretty good price for what you get. I added brake ducts to my car to help with cooling and hoping to stop the warping issues. Ever since I put the Raybestos rotors on and brake ducts, they have lasted a lot longer than the Centrics. My buddy switched from regular Centrics to Premiums and noticed a significant change in the life of the rotor. He too was having issues with cracking rotors, but his were cracking within two days of tracking.

 

I actually had good luck with the Beck Arnley rotors, but that was a while ago. Who knows what has changed since then.

 

If you have the budget, go with a pair of Stoptech two piece aerorotors up front. They are 500-600 initially, but the replacement rings are 280/pair or so. They last me at least half a season (15-18 track days). I had an issue with one piece rotors warping after a few days. With the two piece, problem solved. Go with slotted or blank, no drilled.

Use whatever on the rear, I ran a pair of EBC Sports rear rotors on my Brembos for 2 seasons. I recently changed to a pair of two piece Stoptechs in the rear as well..but the EBC were still good.

 

where did you get the blank rings for the stoptechs?

 

We currently are buying our rotors from Amazon, yes Amazon. We usually get 6 or 8 races out of our rotors and change them as soon as we see stress cracks all over the rotor. Our car is currently a T3 car and weights over 3300#'s and the rotor life is about the same as when we ran a slightly lighter T2 Z car. We also use carbotech brakes which really stop the car. This week we had some time to take off more weight from the front of the car and move some of it to the back to get better balance. We also installed some brake ducts on the front of the car and found a easy way to get air off the Nismo spoiler. This weekend at Summit Point we will take some rotor temps with the ducts on and with them off to see what the difference is. We hookeup of a naca duct to the outermost grill opening and ran the duct work straight back. Thanks to a west coast racer for inventing the really nice carbon fiber rotor duct and the brackets to hold them.
Bob

 

I would like to know that as well???? I've only found two piece slotted or drilled stoptechs. No blanks. I would rather have blanks.

 

Anyone used the racingbrake.com rings with their stoptechs?

http://www.racingbrake.com/Rotor_rin...051-211k-s.htm

Still slotted, but $186 a ring.

 

I usually order my replacement discs from Assaultech...ask for Dan. I know they make them because they dropshipped me 1 slotted, 1 blank once lol..

 

Cost of the blanks?

 

Would like to see pics on your ducts and routing!

I'm running NACAs in the undertray for now and have some of the spindle ducts on the way...

 

I have some stoptech 2 piece rotor/hats that I don't use anymore...
if anybody wants them...come get them...not sure a good price is...
1 set of fronts(2 hats) and rears(2 hats)...old rotors currently mounted

ThreeFiveZero Z...do you need some spares?

 

Not sure about blanks, I think they are the same cost as the slotted...I think I paid 140 a side.

 

Where is the link??

 

Note:
With the 2-piece units, if you have a problem with rotor, you have a fairly tedious process to swap the rotors out. Not a huge problem, but it does takes some time at the track working on screaming hot hat/rotors between sessions to dismount/remount the rotors to the hats.

So i find running the OEM style units cheaper/quicker/better/faster/easier than the expense 2-piece stuff.

Note 2: I am Laze

 

I was just thinking about this point...I carry a set of spare rings at the track, but maybe a cheap set of one piece rotors would be a good idea if I was in a hurry.

 

It happened to me on a raining weekend...so ended up running warped rotors the entire weekend...sucked

 

I run cheap "AutoStar" blanks from a local supplier. Nothing special.

 

How do you know they have more molybdenum? I've never seen anything published on compositions of different rotors, though I would greatly love to see it. My StopTech 2pc front rotors microcrack after a few events. I just ran this set down to where the slots started getting swept away; there are some microcracks for sure, but no big cracks. I have to replace them now, but am thinking of upgrading to the newest ST kit since mine is 8 years old and has taken a beating.