I'm the only one of my friends (Mustang GT, G35, 525i, GTO, 2011 WRX) that has a stock suspension. I have other goodies but is there anything short of coilovers to improve course performance?
I have EBC 3GD rotors with Hawk HP+ pads
Stillen Intake Stillen Y-pipe And Megan drift spec single
Stock rims with 235/50 R17 -front and 255/45 R17 -rear. I went into a chicane and came out doing a 540 spin. my best time was a 68.1s while the best time of my buddies was a 63.3 in a track built mustang on NT05s.

The suspension is without a doubt my only limiting factor with 70k miles on it too. anybody else have stock suspension and some trick to cut some tenths with it?

 

BIGGEST MISTAKE: MODDING CAR FIRST AND NOT THE DRIVER

your cheapest mod is improving your line, steering inputs and throttle and braking points in auto-x and once you have perfected that and you have found weak points in the car setup then you can start modding.

i did about 26 or 27 auto-x events with stock suspension and 6 track days, car did fine before i got rid of it with 83k miles, i have done 1 auto-x event in our new car also with stock suspension.

 

The only limiting factor you encountered was driver.....

 

Seat-time you in Stock Z > No-seat-time you in Z with Bolt-ons.

 

I've done numerous events on my stock suspension, stock wheels, and stock tires. The Z is very capable, it's the driver that's not.

 

Don't know what club you race with but isn't C-Stock stock?

 

I run the stock suspension for AutoX this is will be my 2nd year running it. I agree with everyone seat time > modding the crap out of your car. This year I am running with the Hankook Evo ventus 12 tires which alone makes the car feel different from the falken all seasons I had last year for autoX. Practice some left foot braking for the corners (if you don't already), you'd be surprised how much time you lose braking and accelerating with the same foot in the turns.

 

What class are you wanting to run? That will dictate what you could do. What classes are they running? That might explain the different in times unless those are PAX'd times. How many years have you been autocrossing?

If you've done less than 25 events, then your best options are: Good tires and seat time.

If you do anything suspension, make sure you don't have bad bushings and buy some adjustable front arms to put more in more camber.

 

I have a stock G35 sedan that I autocross regularly. She is heavier and rolls more than the Z I am sure. The only "mod" I have, which really isn't one is Dunlop Star Spec tires. Good rubber allows for predictable handling which helps in my learning process. Good luck.

 

i have been autox for a year now... and started out with stock Z... and like ppl mentioned about stock Z is capable of doing really good times.. its all about how u drive... for stock set upp take it 2 allignment shop and get AS MUCH NEGATIVE CHAMBER UP FRONT AS POSSIBLE...that helps alot.. especially in RWD cars... also if u have problem oversteering just remove the stock rear sway bar..
and like mentioned above.
"....your cheapest mod is improving your line, steering inputs and throttle and braking points in auto-x and once you have perfected that and you have found weak points in the car setup then you can start modding...."-2fast4ya

 

Take an evolution driving school class. Best $250-$300 you can spend.
Then buy a cheap set of used rpf1's after racing season is over.
Pick up a set of Hoosier A6's.

Enjoy wiping the smile off the Mustang's face.





..............Unless your Mustang buddy's name is "Sam"

 

I just realized who you are... You were at Meadowlands SCCA this weekend right? Brickyard Z?

I was running in the first heat with your other friends. Took me a while to realize that I had JUST seen all the cars you mentioned surrounding me on Sunday

 

Ok, let me defend myself here a bit. I know I need seat time it's all my friends ever tell me. And I'm going to te races, driving with instructors. I modded the car before I ever thought to race it. I drift more often but I really like the AutoX scene.
Practice makes perfect and I'm practicing but I was wondering if there were any tips other than improve my line. Maybe I'm being too vague, and I don't know what I'm even expecting for an answer. If the consensus is just get new seat time and improve my skills then cool.

Also, yes that was me/us at te meadowlands. I was running novice c-stock. I only have 4 autox's under my belt. What were you running in that blue Z? You were really doing well through the course. I was working the course when you were running at the first set of slaloms.

 

From Autox4u results from 6/19:

You:
14 CS 281 Joe Meringer 2003 Nissan 350Z Purple/Red 72.624 72.696 69.946 69.097 89.542 68.195(best raw) 56.806(your PAX)

INTIMAZY:
3 m SSM 980 Tom Gut 2006 Nissan 350Z Blue 59.005 57.323 57.672 58.723 56.260(best raw) 60.797+DNF PAX=don't know.

 

I don't think anyone here was trying to attack you. We were all novices once too you know. Not only have we experienced being a novice ourselves, we watch new people come into this sport every event.

Go out on a Test & Tune day and let an instructor drive a couple runs in your car. (If you feel comfortable doing so.) Even without "knowing" your car, they will probably be able to give you a decent idea of what your car is capable of. (as it sits now) -And you can work from there.

We have a Test & Tune course that runs about 40-ish seconds. I tell first-time students that if they can get within 10 seconds of a veteran in a similar car, they are doing fine. If they get within 5 seconds, I consider them fast first-timers.

With good practice, you will see large chunks of time (seconds) fall of your runs.

After you've done this for a while and your driving improves, getting a few tenths off a second of your run will be a major accomplishment. (sometimes just hundredths)

 

Also, my friend wanted me to let you know that he wasn't the black 5.7 GTO, he was the silver 6.0 with the red stripes.

 

Yeaaaaa that was me. My PAX kills me since my car is not even fully prepared for BSP, much less SM2. Also was having a few issues with my clutch not engaging properly so I was bumping the rev limiter every time I got too gas-happy for most of my runs.

I didn't get to see your runs since I was in grid during the second heat and left before third heat but at least you stayed on course all your runs. Next time you go, have one of the instructors take a ride with you. If you can, find Mark with the black 370z running in CS. He's very capable with these cars. Or even Perry....

 

As has been said, your #1 limiting factor is the driver. #2 is tires. If you insist on modding your car and want to stay in C-stock, get a front sway bar and some Koni sports. That plus the fattest Hoosier A6s you can squeeze on the stock wheels will have you basically fully prepped for stock class. (Technically your rotors and Stillen intake aren't stock class legal, but they're letting it slide since you're a a novice.)

 

Really? Why are the rotors and intake not class legal? The rotors are stock size and I spoke to the organizer who said it was a legal stock class. They've never given me any grief at tech.

Also, I did take instructor. Said I drove very well and his opinion was to utilize my, and I quote. "disgusting brakes" and become more comfortable braking later and harder onto the tires through a turn. He seemed to be VERY weight distribution oriented.

Will koni blues work with stock springs? Or should I get springs to match?

@Tom, your PAX is ridiculous btw, 49. Something. I told perry to drive my car at the next AutoX to see how I stack up against a professional driver and to learn from him. I'll be sure to talk to the black 370 for his input also. Thanks alot everybody, you're a great help.

 

The braking thing is a common problem with drivers new to tracking their cars and takes a little time to get used to.

On the shock question did you mean Koni "Yellows" or Tokico "Blues"?