Trapu

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

i'm a new owner of a 2003 350Z touring and it going to be a track car only. i would like to have some input of good modifications to do on the Z33. We (my father and me) built a 370Z (his car) last year with sucess with 2 podium in 2 races.

Keep in mind that is for amateur racing, but i have no intention to be behind the Cayman R

I have good experience of racing, but i was in the FWD world

So first, I keep the 350z N/A, my goal will be near 295-300 whp, but not this year, since the brake and suspension would be the first on the ''to do'' list.

- Roll cage
- Sparco Racing seat with 5 pts harness
- Completely stip interior
- New paint
- Battery relocation
- Hope to be ±3000 lbs without the driver


So far, i have on order:

- Akebono 14'' big brake kit with stainless lines, stoptech rotors and racing pads
- Ichiba front and rear camber arms
- Lower tie bar
- Big oil cooler
- Pulley kit
- No a/c with all parts remove
- Intake spacer
- Bigger oil pan (stillen)
- 4.08 rear final drive
- Nismo rear cover diff
- Revup tuning

Next year:

JWT Cams
Quaife LSD
Clutch and flywheel
Radiator + hoses

Here what i'm still shopping:

Suspension (KW V3 or Buddy club, STD or BC racing) ?
Spoiler (Greddy low style or APR big spoiler) ?
18'' Wheels (good offset...+33 or +15) ?
Exhaust: single with 3'' axle-back or real double in 2.5 ?


So, what do you think so far of the setup. What suspension do you recommand thinking in mind that my budget isnt limitless.

Thanks !

Martin

Fluid1

iTrader: (19)

What "class" or whatever are you going to be racing in?

Man BBK's are such a waste of $


1. Wheels and tires
2. Differential
3. Suspension
4. Weight
5. Power
6. everything else

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

i have bc coils and theyre great, but also hear great things about kw, so in my opinion, either way cant go wrong. a single 3" exhaust will also weigh less than a dual 2.5". also id leave your stock crank pulley on. their were issues with aftermarket crank pulleys.

also look into removing as much weight as possible (for example take off the plastic on the underside of your hatch, theres a random weight there, idk why, there just is). also check out smg motorsports longtube headers. make fantastic power and sound great. they also have a serious n/a setup and have tons of info on cam timing which is where this motor is hiding power.

a +15 offset will be better fitted i believe, as i have an m35x with akebonos and my +32 wheel face is about 2mm from the caliper. the calipers look wider than the stoptech calipers on my 350z as well. and lastly look into some good solid mounts (motor, trans, subframe, diff)

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

OS Giken diff will be a much better choice for a track car
Look into Enkei RPF1 and NT03 wheels
APR wing is functional, the other is not, and will be a waste of $$$
Save your $$ on the tie bar
Out of your coilovers KW would be the best choice.

jnathan68

iTrader: (29)

From your post, it sounds like you have some driving experience so no need to start there. As far as your setup

Not sure about the Akebono brake kit and probably would recommend you go with the brembo's that came on the track model or a Stoptech or Wilwood kit

A 4.08 gearing may be a little high but I will let other's comment on that

If you are going to compete, go with the KW's...if you can afford the clubsports, go clubsports otherwise V3

These are just my thoughts. As someone else pointed out, decide what class you are going to compete in and verify the rules.

Trapu

iTrader: (2)

Here the time Attack class are quite simple:

Power to weight ratio and base chart for stock cars. All FWD, RWD and RWD are mix togetter. That the closest thing to wheel to wheel racing without damages....really fun.

Classes: TA-0 to TA-6

TA-0 (open class; 500 whp STI and super car)
TA-1 = fast and modified cars like 370Z race car, WRX and EVO
TA-2 = Really Fast FWD and quick RWD
TA-3 = BMW M3, 1M and Z3 M coupe,
TA-4 = Semi-stock FWD, modded civic
TA-6 = mostly stock car from Yaris to old school street car

here the site:

www.trackandtime.ca

Mart

Trapu

iTrader: (2)

Wow,

quick responders !!! I like that.

Here the 370 that i prepared last year, the result were good, so i'm trying to apply the same logic in the process:

- Roll cage + seat + harness
- Brake upgraded
- Hoosier R6
- KW V3 suspension
- Oil cooler
- APR wings
- CAI
- AAM exhaust
- Hotckis sway bars
- 4.08 ratio

We adding:

LSD 1.5 ways
JWT clutch and flywheel
Light wheels


]

]




Here my last car, a 300 WHP Sentra with a SR20DET...quicker than a 370Z!

Guilty1s

iTrader: (12)

Save a headache and do the LSD install with the FD install. And maybe not a 4.08. Plus the LSD will be one of your best mods anyways. While your down there, do some whiteline subframe mounts and some SPL solid diff mounts. Pretty cheep.

Looks like you already ordered it... like i did. But the Akebono kit is awesome and stuff, but the rotors weigh 29lbs a peice in all 4 corners. Thats almost stupid. I ended up selling my kit for some OEM brembos

Find you some RPF1s, PF1s, something light. 18"x9.5-10.5 with some 275-295 fat sticky goodness. This is where you will make or break you.

On a side note, I have seen some sentras do some things i didnt know FWD could do so fast. The KAs are quick, but strap in a VQ or SR and its a damn race car. The chassis are just so nimble.

tiago79

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE= also check out smg motorsports longtube headers. make fantastic power and sound great. they also have a serious n/a setup and have tons of info on cam timing which is where this motor is hiding power.)[/QUOTE]

Unfortunatly that does not look to be a option unless he moves fast on them

http://www.sg-motorsport.com/?p=931

I just got my 2006 Z for some track action a few weeks ago and those were on my wish list for next year sometime but it looks like that will not happen. Bummed, but wish those guys the best. At least we still have the vids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iU2h0...el_video_title

Tougelabs

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like your on the right track, I'm starting my hill climb built as we speak...Anyway for the wing please do yourself a favor and check out kognition design ....Add a dot come to that...BTW get yourself a carbon hatch Asuka or call seibon and ask them to make you a super light hatch and then throw some plexiglass and you will shed almost 86lbs. I just picked one up a long with a jic Spartan... I spoke to Sasha from sg the other day and as of right now he's not doing another run of headers...This saddens my soul since those headers and that exhaust...Well pretty much the whole car is what made me buy my 350 But from what I have heard other options may be hitting the market soon...Prob wont be as awesome but we can keep our fingers crossed
Good luck !

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

I would look into a better brake kit option for the track... Wilwood or OEM Brembo if you're on a budget.

I'd go with a single exhaust if you plan on trying to hit the 3000lb mark, hopefully you're counting fluids or that'd be a heavy Z still!

p.s. I'll echo solid or urethane bushings everywhere.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Since you say its mostly based on power to weight i woudn't even bother doing much to the engine. Focus on the suspension, brakes, power delivery, weight and aero. The CF hatch mentioned above is a great idea, but ..... from a budget standpoint it would be much cheaper to just as a plexy window to the OEM hatch, the major weight saving is getting rid of the glass, and not in the hatch. Also with running the OEM hatch you don't have to worry as much about reinforcing the hatch for a proper wing like APR, Fulcrum, Aeromotive etc etc.

Also i would look into better suspension, KW clubsports would be the low end of what i would look into. A set of TCKline Koni's or AST may be a lot better choice.

DivZero

iTrader: (1)

AST are not on the same level as JRZ, Moton, and Ohlins. Those brands are durable enough to take punishment at the racetrack and have long standing quality-control checks.

Trapu

iTrader: (2)

I wish to have that kind of money to buy high quality like that, but i don't have the 5K+ to put on this.

I already have 5k on brake, wheels and tires....that only for 1 set of wheels and tires. Need rain tires + lapping tires after that

I have maybe 2500$ to put on coils-over.

Power will be for next year, except the basic bolt-ons.

Mart

betamotorsports

iTrader: (1)

$5K on shocks is a much smarter use of your money then any money spent on the brakes. You're even better off leaving the rear with the coil spring on the LCA and spending the money on shocks.

Parroting what's mentioned above, your best bang for the buck in a power limited class is:

1. OS Giken LSD.
2. Shocks.
3. Tires.

Everything else is secondary.

Trapu

iTrader: (2)

Brake cost me near 2000$ for a complete setup (BBK). If i want a complete setup in new for the smaller brake, it would cost me near 8-900$ for a complete job. Even used brembo are way over 1000$ for a set of 4.

I can't go without good tires and wheels, but i can cope with a weak OEM LSD for the first season in that 350Z.

I might go to big with the BBK, but i want hardcore brakes to deal with the 3000 lbs car. I was so happy with my Brembo setup on the Sentra that i cant think that small caliper would do the job with the 350Z.

Put i dont really care about the class in Time Attack...all i want is to fight with the Top five in the overall ranking. I was usually 10-11 with my Sentra, but the suspension was my bigger problem...

But i'm not ready to spend 5k on shock, unless i find another sponsor to paid for it.

Mart

97supratt

iTrader: (61)

I agree with some of the comments on the suspension, moton & ohlins.

For aero, bare minimum would be APR, but there are companies out there with better designs. The horsepower you are trying to achieve will take quite a bit of engine work. I would work on lightening the car, suspension, cage, and aero instead of wasting too much on engine work. Bolt-on's are fine these days.

Trapu

iTrader: (2)

Engine work would be for next year. i'm starting to strip completly the interiour next week, everything will go out. Should be near 300 lbs of plastic, radio, wiring, seats and airbags. The A/C removal is a big part of that weight.

The only ''power'' mods will be: CAI, exhaust, spacer and pulley. That it or this year. Cams, springs and flywheel/clutch are for next years. Probably JWT will be the right choice for thoses parts. Really happy with there products over the last 6 years.

The roll cage will be first in the list before the exterior paint and the performance parts. The guys at Compact auto sport in Drumondville did a great job for the 370Z for the roll bar, so they should get the 350Z

http://www.compactautosport.com/

The best part about aero is that i have a good buddy who work in an carbon fiber factory, he will do the front canard and the front splitter.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

AST bought Moton several months back....

DivZero

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Ideally they are keeping the two product lines separate as they stated in the press release.