Coilover decision
They view their Clubsport product as more of a race product, so to me it makes sense to me that it would not have come up in your conversation with them. And I'm sure when they do bring the product up, conversation ends when the price is brought up.
I have shock dyno's for the Kw Varant 2, we ran them front and rear at full soft, med and full stiff. I also have dyno's for Koni yellows, TcKline, Ohlins PCV and Truechoice Phase IV.
Between Kw Variant 2 and 3 IMO I would need to know one thing and to know it ABSOLUTELY. Can the Variant 3 adjust to higher rebound and compression damping levels in the 0ips to 3ips range vs the variant 2. (ips= inches per second and its refering to how much force is delivered by the shock) Problem is, according to Kw, they only have dyno's for the clubsport. Though you might be able to convince them to forward the question to the engineers in Germany for a actual answer.
Just to say it, off the shelf Koni yellows aren't to bad and in a few places have better valving for autocross duty vs the Variant 2 . I ran mine with a 448/427 spring setup.
Also, I would NOT run the Variant 2 or 3 in autocross without removing either kits progresive rear springs. Frankly, I'd just run oem 05+ rear springs on shaved upper spring seats for a .8" drop and set the front accordingly. You'd get a 427lbs linear rear vs a 240Lbs to 548Lbs progressive rear.
Between Kw Variant 2 and 3 IMO I would need to know one thing and to know it ABSOLUTELY. Can the Variant 3 adjust to higher rebound and compression damping levels in the 0ips to 3ips range vs the variant 2. (ips= inches per second and its refering to how much force is delivered by the shock) Problem is, according to Kw, they only have dyno's for the clubsport. Though you might be able to convince them to forward the question to the engineers in Germany for a actual answer.
Just to say it, off the shelf Koni yellows aren't to bad and in a few places have better valving for autocross duty vs the Variant 2 . I ran mine with a 448/427 spring setup.
Also, I would NOT run the Variant 2 or 3 in autocross without removing either kits progresive rear springs. Frankly, I'd just run oem 05+ rear springs on shaved upper spring seats for a .8" drop and set the front accordingly. You'd get a 427lbs linear rear vs a 240Lbs to 548Lbs progressive rear.
Last edited by Gsedan35; Dec 17, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
Good for you, I Do have experience and have friends this has happened to. Honestly you sound ridiculous. I just gave my 2 cents. The forum is for people to hear other opinions, not to bash people for giving theirs. Do some research, it has happened before. IF you would like to bash my so called lack of knowledge come to the zclubofflorida.net monthly meet so I can educate you.
Ha I know JRZ is for race cars and serious money cars lol. stance makes true style option also and do have a new set out that have 60mm shock or pistons sizes which is sweet it's there XR line which I think is in the 2k range. my fortune auto 500s aren't bad for a starter set they have 57mm pistons sizes you can choose you're spring rates. And there 1k shipped. But they do have draw backs no mounting points for abs and brake lines so you have to rig up you're own. you get what you pay for lol.
Last edited by terrasmak; Dec 18, 2011 at 12:03 AM.
Check it out sometime if you don't want to travel too far and you want to try a road course. I live in Columbus Ohio and I can make it there in 3 hours, 15 minutes.
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I know Putnam. It's a fast track. It's just really expensive to go to it. Gingerman is 4hrs away, put not as nice.
If you ever want to try a road course, there is a decent one called Putnam Park a little west of Indy. I've been there a couple times. NASA runs there and 1010ths runs there a lot. 1010ths offers a lot of track time for a good price. I think it's like almost 3 hours total per day.
Check it out sometime if you don't want to travel too far and you want to try a road course. I live in Columbus Ohio and I can make it there in 3 hours, 15 minutes.
Check it out sometime if you don't want to travel too far and you want to try a road course. I live in Columbus Ohio and I can make it there in 3 hours, 15 minutes.
Wow! you make a great point with youre general and generic inputs Gsedan35 you must have a stock car becouse clearly Nissan had in mind to build the perfect car with no comprise in performance and or thoughts of overall cost or effect on ride and noise. Or likeness across platforms. Why would any body wanna mod there cars? Oh wait Nissan is like any other car company bottom line cost and who there selling car too in mind. Why would I wanna put a oil cooler on my z. Oh yea if you wanna go more then a few laps around track with out the oil temps getting out of control and car going into limp mode. Why would I wanna put a zspeed internal clutch slave cylinder into my car if Nissan made it perfect from factory wrong I've gone thru 4 and one master. Why would Nissan put bad cylinder oil rings in the 2006 z or 2005 2006 altima or the 01-04 pathfinders. I could go until I'm blue in the face on all faults quilty and engineering including the gt-r. There a car company none of them are perfect.
That being said, Gsedan35 has a good deal of knowledge in regards to the suspension setup on this platform and is correct in saying that the reason for staying away from true-style coilovers has d-i-c-k to do with the strength of the mounting point. I'm going to assume you have at least a high school sophmore's reading ability as that seems to be the minimum driving age range in most of this country, so hopefully you will be able to excercise your reading skill in the following thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...er-or-not.html
FTW! I have the 350Z suspension modeled in Mitchell. Adding rear coilovers without any other rear suspension change actually makes things worse in back. Funny how a team of professional engineers working at an OEM gets things right now and then. More then can be said of Internet engineers.
FTW! I have the 350Z suspension modeled in Mitchell. Adding rear coilovers without any other rear suspension change actually makes things worse in back. Funny how a team of professional engineers working at an OEM gets things right now and then. More then can be said of Internet engineers.
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FTW! I have the 350Z suspension modeled in Mitchell. Adding rear coilovers without any other rear suspension change actually makes things worse in back. Funny how a team of professional engineers working at an OEM gets things right now and then. More then can be said of Internet engineers.
I'm not making any recommendations. I'm just disputing the common Internet engineering meme that coil overs are better. Actually, I'll give the piece of advice that I give to all my track/racing customers: For the first 18 months you spend on the track, do not spend any money on your car, other then the money needed to make it safe and reliable. Spend all your track money on driving schools and track time.
I've seen countless 350Zs (and other cars that originally had separate spring/shock setups) running "true coilovers" on the street and track. The track cars were either high-power drag cars, or dedicated time attack or drift cars. Basically, these cars see some action on the track. I've never seen the damper mounting location damaged. I'm not saying it can't happen, but I wouldn't worry about it.
That being said... Does that $2k budget include the toe arms and an alignment? If so, then look at Fortune Auto, Eibach, H&R, KW V1, or NISMO G ATTACK S-Tune. If the $2k is JUST for coilovers, then you could go with some better options like KW V2, Bilstein PSS, or Tein Type Flex. If you can stretch the budget a little more, you can do Bilstein PSS9, Cusco Zero1, KW V3 or Tein Mono Flex. There's tons of options, but a lot of them are going to be OEM style. If your only reason for wanting a true style coilover is for toe adjustment, make sure whatever toe arm you buy is actually adjusting toe.
That being said... Does that $2k budget include the toe arms and an alignment? If so, then look at Fortune Auto, Eibach, H&R, KW V1, or NISMO G ATTACK S-Tune. If the $2k is JUST for coilovers, then you could go with some better options like KW V2, Bilstein PSS, or Tein Type Flex. If you can stretch the budget a little more, you can do Bilstein PSS9, Cusco Zero1, KW V3 or Tein Mono Flex. There's tons of options, but a lot of them are going to be OEM style. If your only reason for wanting a true style coilover is for toe adjustment, make sure whatever toe arm you buy is actually adjusting toe.
Last edited by Vivid Racing; Dec 19, 2011 at 09:40 AM.
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The 2k budget is just for coilovers. I have a vendor selling kw v3s for just under 2k. A fellow member has them used with 3k miles for 1600. And I can get new kw v2s for 1500. I'm just trying to get a good set of coilovers because my stock setup is on its last leg. I was just trying to see If the kw v3s are worth the extra money. And if the true stance coils would be as good as the kw's
I've seen countless 350Zs (and other cars that originally had separate spring/shock setups) running "true coilovers" on the street and track. The track cars were either high-power drag cars, or dedicated time attack or drift cars. Basically, these cars see some action on the track. I've never seen the damper mounting location damaged. I'm not saying it can't happen, but I wouldn't worry about it.
That being said... Does that $2k budget include the toe arms and an alignment? If so, then look at Fortune Auto, Eibach, H&R, KW V1, or NISMO G ATTACK S-Tune. If the $2k is JUST for coilovers, then you could go with some better options like KW V2, Bilstein PSS, or Tein Type Flex. If you can stretch the budget a little more, you can do Bilstein PSS9, Cusco Zero1, KW V3 or Tein Mono Flex. There's tons of options, but a lot of them are going to be OEM style. If your only reason for wanting a true style coilover is for toe adjustment, make sure whatever toe arm you buy is actually adjusting toe.
That being said... Does that $2k budget include the toe arms and an alignment? If so, then look at Fortune Auto, Eibach, H&R, KW V1, or NISMO G ATTACK S-Tune. If the $2k is JUST for coilovers, then you could go with some better options like KW V2, Bilstein PSS, or Tein Type Flex. If you can stretch the budget a little more, you can do Bilstein PSS9, Cusco Zero1, KW V3 or Tein Mono Flex. There's tons of options, but a lot of them are going to be OEM style. If your only reason for wanting a true style coilover is for toe adjustment, make sure whatever toe arm you buy is actually adjusting toe.
The 2k budget is just for coilovers. I have a vendor selling kw v3s for just under 2k. A fellow member has them used with 3k miles for 1600. And I can get new kw v2s for 1500. I'm just trying to get a good set of coilovers because my stock setup is on its last leg. I was just trying to see If the kw v3s are worth the extra money. And if the true stance coils would be as good as the kw's
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KW clubsports or http://www.truechoicekoniracingservi.../solutions.htm if i was in the market for suspension again
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KW clubsports or http://www.truechoicekoniracingservi.../solutions.htm if i was in the market for suspension again
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KW clubsports or http://www.truechoicekoniracingservi.../solutions.htm if i was in the market for suspension again
FTW! I have the 350Z suspension modeled in Mitchell. Adding rear coilovers without any other rear suspension change actually makes things worse in back. Funny how a team of professional engineers working at an OEM gets things right now and then. More then can be said of Internet engineers.
As a driver I tend to go with what I feel most comfortable with and consistently turn faster times. My car is easily two seconds a run faster in Autocross events since last year. While the rear coilover setup isnt only thing we did it definitely helped. When we went to rear coilover we got rid of the weird hop that we would get with stock springs too.
But then 350 suspension is differnt so perhaps there is something about that setup that favors spring in stock perch?









