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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 11:13 AM
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Default Coilover decision

Not sure which coilovers would suit me best. Learning towards kw v2 or v3. Im going to autox the z mainly since there's not any tracks close to me. And does anyone know if I can get these in true style? All I've saw is oem style
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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Here's info on the True style

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...questions.html


I have KW v2's and love the ride. They are currently maxed out on the lowering setting, and I want to go a bit lower. May post up for sale soon only like 500 miles.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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Kw does not make "true" style coilover. I have spoken to their reps twice, once in person, once over the phone. They do not see the need to make a true coilover setup as the z is not designed to hold all of the rear weight on the small aluminum bracket that the shock bolts up to. Any reason you want true style?
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by acke15
Not sure which coilovers would suit me best. Learning towards kw v2 or v3. Im going to autox the z mainly since there's not any tracks close to me. And does anyone know if I can get these in true style? All I've saw is oem style
V2 are single adjustable and V3 are double adjustable. The double adjustable are going to offer you a better ability to fine tune the handling of the car and better adjust it to each "track" you run. So the question is, do you need that level of adjustment and are your going to take the time to learn how to use it?

I had double adjustable on another track car I owned and found that I was constantly trying to figure them out...just didn't track enough and/or want to spend enough time to learn them.

Obviously, if you can afford them, the V3's are a better choice but they may be overkill depending on how often you plan to autocross and how competitive you want to be.

Just my $.02
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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Reason for true is to run toe arms. I could always buy the spl mid link I suppose.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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As stated before true coilovers are not ment for a 350z, buy oem style. The true style put to much pressure on the top mounts in the rear causing them to break through.

On another note KW's are amazing. I just went from v1's to clubsports and I love them. But don't over look the v1's, they were good coilovers. I still have my set if you want to buy a set.

Last edited by Viksz33; Dec 17, 2011 at 03:19 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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[QUOTE=Viksz33;9522191]As stated before true coilovers are not ment for a 350z, buy oem style. The true style put to much pressure on the top mounts in the rear causing them to break through.

On another not KW's are amazing. I just went from v1's to clubsports and I love them. But don't over look the v1's, they were good coilovers. I still have my set if you want to buy a set.[/QUOTE

If you have no personal experience with true coilover setup. Dont be telling people that the mounts are going to fail! Becouse then you've never seen where the rear shock mounts up to. And you'll sound like a idiot! It mounts to steel! Oh and the rear steel! Huge Cross member under the rear hatch is welded to the inner steel fenders where the rear shocks bolt too. So do some home work and youse some common sense. Before you comment and act like you know. I have fortune auto 500 true coilovers on my 07 350z TT and driven almost 15k on them and with two hpde track days and haven't had any problems.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 03:25 PM
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[QUOTE=agencyHR350z;9522247]
Originally Posted by Viksz33
As stated before true coilovers are not ment for a 350z, buy oem style. The true style put to much pressure on the top mounts in the rear causing them to break through.

On another not KW's are amazing. I just went from v1's to clubsports and I love them. But don't over look the v1's, they were good coilovers. I still have my set if you want to buy a set.[/QUOTE

If you have no personal experience with true coilover setup. Dont be telling people that the mounts are going to fail! Becouse then you've never seen where the rear shock mounts up to. And you'll sound like a idiot! It mounts to steel! Oh and the rear steel! Huge Cross member under the rear hatch is welded to the inner steel fenders where the rear shocks bolt too. So do some home work and youse some common sense. Before you comment and act like you know. I have fortune auto 500 true coilovers on my 07 350z TT and driven almost 15k on them and with two hpde track days and haven't had any problems.
Good for you, I Do have experience and have friends this has happened to. Honestly you sound ridiculous. I just gave my 2 cents. The forum is for people to hear other opinions, not to bash people for giving theirs. Do some research, it has happened before. IF you would like to bash my so called lack of knowledge come to the zclubofflorida.net monthly meet so I can educate you.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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What's breaking I just told you the top is steel. The bottom of the shock does bolt to the aluminum knuckle. But the gt-r also bolts its coilover to the aluminum knuckle. So I still don't see a problem. I work on Nissans all day including GT-Rs and other modded zs I'm not some kid like you're friends working on there z in the back yard.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 04:03 PM
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But are there any true coilover setups that are better than kw v2/v3?
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by acke15
But are there any true coilover setups that are better than kw v2/v3?
subjective, will vary from person to person.

The only two reasons to run a true coilover for me would be A) easier adjustment. B) more alignment adjustments through the midlink delete arm.

But there's always two sides to the story
A)If rear mcphearson struts were better for the z, nissan would have done it instead of independent coil and shock. B) Just buy spl midlinks.

To each their own, some people like/want true coilovers and would die defending them. But they both do the same thing. As far as the failing aluminum(or steel) plate failing, search on the forum. Only cause it has happened does mean it will happen to everyone at a certain condition, and vice versa, hasn't happened yet but doesn't mean it won't.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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If your going to be somewhat serious with the Autox. Be aware of the changes you make and how it affects what class you run in.

You'll get more out of a good set of tires for the class your running in then anything else. If you dont have those the upgraded suspension will just go to waste

But if your just having fun, then who cares. Good luck.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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This year the tires are decent. But have lots of life. So I'll use them. Then it's either Hoosiers or rs3's
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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I run my car in STR class, 17/9 rims 255 RS3 all around. They are a great tire and good prices too.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hugo350z
subjective, will vary from person to person.

The only two reasons to run a true coilover for me would be A) easier adjustment. B) more alignment adjustments through the midlink delete arm.

But there's always two sides to the story
A)If rear mcphearson struts were better for the z, nissan would have done it instead of independent coil and shock. B) Just buy spl midlinks.

To each their own, some people like/want true coilovers and would die defending them. But they both do the same thing. As far as the failing aluminum(or steel) plate failing, search on the forum. Only cause it has happened does mean it will happen to everyone at a certain condition, and vice versa, hasn't happened yet but doesn't mean it won't.
Yes there are sets of true coilovers that are better then kw coilovers a little company called JRZ . The fontan Nissan 350z time attack car runs JRZ true style coilovers on the stock aluminum spindle. Im thinking a company that has coil overs ranging from 4500$ to 15k$ plus for coilovers knows what there doing and wouldnt sell them knowing that the mounting points would fail! Neither would A race team. Here's a website to the Fontana z site https://www.fontananissanracing.com/...uspension.html
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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I was looking to spend around 2k
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by hugo350z
Kw does not make "true" style coilover. I have spoken to their reps twice, once in person, once over the phone. They do not see the need to make a true coilover setup as the z is not designed to hold all of the rear weight on the small aluminum bracket that the shock bolts up to. Any reason you want true style?
They do actually. KW Clubsports.

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...s-reviews.html
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by acke15
I was looking to spend around 2k
Ha I know JRZ is for race cars and serious money cars lol. stance makes true style option also and do have a new set out that have 60mm shock or pistons sizes which is sweet it's there XR line which I think is in the 2k range. my fortune auto 500s aren't bad for a starter set they have 57mm pistons sizes you can choose you're spring rates. And there 1k shipped. But they do have draw backs no mounting points for abs and brake lines so you have to rig up you're own. you get what you pay for lol. but I'm still happy with them they made a huge diff. At track days. And the ride isnt bad ive felt worse from some other setups. But sofar the smoothest ride on the street I've felt were kw coilovers on a 370z I'm not sure if they were v2 or v3s i was doing some clutch work on the car. but you deff get what you pay for. But I'm with you I didnt want to spend huge money on spl adj. Toe arms. So that's the reason I went true style so I could get less expensive circuit sport camber / toe arms to get the rear alignment in.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Voboy
wierd...when I called kw they told me all their set ups for the z were oem style.
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 09:02 PM
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True coilover rear setups are a sensible choice on race car's that will ACTUALLY see rear suspension modification's commiserate to the level of engineering applied by the team suspension engineer. Meaning, Joe average Z owner’s car won't get a bit of those mods. Nissan did not equip the car with the setup for a reason. It has ZERO to do with the strength of the upper mounts.
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