Stagger tire sizes or not?
I am considering a square setup as well. The charts I've seen say a 285 will fit a 9.5 in wheel (guidelines were 9.5 to 10.5 in wheel) My Z is pretty much 100% stock...will 285's fit without any issues?
I'm surprised everyone is going 285's with only a couple track days.
I've used my 265/265 setup for the past two years and have no complaints.
I'd think too massive of a tire will hide driving flaws just like a stickier tire would.
I've used my 265/265 setup for the past two years and have no complaints.
I'd think too massive of a tire will hide driving flaws just like a stickier tire would.
I agree with this statement. If you can learn chassis dynamics and car control with the OEM size tires you will be that much better when you are ready to move up. It's best to learn that on skinnier and non-R compounds.
285 rs3 runs wide, really wide. My sidewalls are dam near straight up and down on a 10.5 , search a little I believe pics are posted.
Obviously, there are differences in tires (tread width, sidewall stiffness) that make this more or less pronounced but I would shoot for at least a 10" rim.
I am running a square 245 R6 on 9.5" wheels this year due to rule changes, so far so good! The turn in response is better from the 255s I used last season is better since they fit the rim different. They also feel like they dont scrub/push as bad in tight turns.
There is such thing as too much tire. I like to reference spec miatas in this case. A SM on 225s is slower than an equivalent car on 205s.
There is such thing as too much tire. I like to reference spec miatas in this case. A SM on 225s is slower than an equivalent car on 205s.
Last edited by ThreeFiveZero Z; Feb 14, 2012 at 10:58 AM.
Also depends on the track. My 350Z was marginal faster around AutoClub Speedway on V710 245s then 285s, but the test wasn't on the same day so its just anecdotal. When you spend a lot of time at full throttle on a straight or in banking (20 seconds at the Speedway) narrow tires are better.
does everyone still run more front camber than rear even with the square setup? if so that's a big big big grip change in front, is the car neutral or slightly oversteering now?
what's the camber specs front and rear for those that are running square? thanks.
what's the camber specs front and rear for those that are running square? thanks.
The front needs all the help it can get and yes you'll want to run more static front negative camber. Even with a square setup the car still understeers. It undertsteers less, but the basic chassis still understeers at the limit.
Last edited by betamotorsports; Feb 15, 2012 at 07:00 AM.
That has been my observation... For a while, I thought my suspension setup was just way off because I've been complaining of general understeer with 275/275 setup while others have mention "oversteering monster". Mated with a Cusco diff, I don't get very much rotation unless I trail brake very aggressively (which I only do in sharp corners).
That has been my observation... For a while, I thought my suspension setup was just way off because I've been complaining of general understeer with 275/275 setup while others have mention "oversteering monster". Mated with a Cusco diff, I don't get very much rotation unless I trail brake very aggressively (which I only do in sharp corners).
A lot of people confused lift throttle behavior with steady state behavior. When a car is decried as understeering or oversteering it means its behavior in a corner at a steady state (steady throttle, steady steering). A good handling car should step the back out under lift throttle. The more sensitive the suspension and car is to throttle the faster you can go around corners - assuming some driving skill.
I remember reading somewhere that these LSD's will add "stability" in turns while off throttle, thereby allowing more "confidence" under trail braking. When, I read that, I concluded that it meant the car does not rotate as well under throttle lift, and I must rely more on trail braking to get the car rotated.







