What Fails on a track day Z?
#22
When people are saying wheel bearings do they mean fronts? Have heard but not sure if it is true that Murano bearings will fit and are more reliable?
I've had the front fail in my 07 G35X but it is AWD and assuming those bearings are different from the Z front.
I've had the front fail in my 07 G35X but it is AWD and assuming those bearings are different from the Z front.
#23
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Murano hubs, Fontana Nissan runs them on their race car, i don't think they allow for ABS, and don't know if they are direct fit. Will play with them at a later date.
#27
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In addition to UPGRADING the studs to ARP before you even begin AND having extra hubs in your spares box, I also suggest having a spare throttle body, as the sensor on it has failed on me.
As you know, upgrade your brake fluid and run some ducting if you can. Radiator and oil cooler can wait, IMO, until you run in the high heat. Upgrade the diff as well to save yourself some headache; I suggest a NISMO. Get some big wheels, 10s or 10.5s all around and some sticky 285/30 tires, and have fun. She should run without much issue if you have some spares and address the items above.
As you know, upgrade your brake fluid and run some ducting if you can. Radiator and oil cooler can wait, IMO, until you run in the high heat. Upgrade the diff as well to save yourself some headache; I suggest a NISMO. Get some big wheels, 10s or 10.5s all around and some sticky 285/30 tires, and have fun. She should run without much issue if you have some spares and address the items above.
#32
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If you have the budget and you know you will be tracking a lot then proactively upgrade as much as you can "comfortably afford" before you start tracking. It's better to upgrade the common trouble areas before they fail. Don't wait until they fail while you're on the track.
In order:
-Swap LCA bushings to solids or poly...especially if you're lowered.
-Swap all wheel bearings. All 4 of my wheel bearings failed after one track day
-ARP wheel studs. I'm still on OEM because I'm dumb
-If lowered, get PowerGrid endlinks. Your anti-sway bars are pre-loaded
-Larger PS cooler and better fluid. I boiled my power steering fluid. Sticky tires cause more stress on power steering
-Get a real diff. Your viscous diff is long burned up
-Large oil cooler
-Koyo 54mm radiator
In order:
-Swap LCA bushings to solids or poly...especially if you're lowered.
-Swap all wheel bearings. All 4 of my wheel bearings failed after one track day
-ARP wheel studs. I'm still on OEM because I'm dumb
-If lowered, get PowerGrid endlinks. Your anti-sway bars are pre-loaded
-Larger PS cooler and better fluid. I boiled my power steering fluid. Sticky tires cause more stress on power steering
-Get a real diff. Your viscous diff is long burned up
-Large oil cooler
-Koyo 54mm radiator
Last edited by the3kgt2; 11-05-2012 at 09:18 AM.
#33
Okay, so if I'm not spinning the inside rear wheel when powering out of a turn does that mean the diff (OEM viscous) is working properly.....or that I'm just not pushing it very hard?
#34
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I think i know the biggest failure with the Z, the driver. I had a blast outrunning the 2 FI Z's at the track this weekend.
#37
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To many people build the car, then try learn how to drive. It really seems to kill the learning curve. Even Wetdreamz with just a little bit of track experiance running an NA Z was running much faster than the 2 FI cars.
Moral of the story, focus on driving, upgrade as required. My car was pretty close to bone stock for a while. As i got faster the PS needed a bigger cooler, then brakes, etc etc. I had so much more fun than sitting at home saving/building and never playing on the track.
Biggest failure, the driver without enough seat time.
#40
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