As everyone was saying

wheel bearing
LCA in bushings
I boiled my power steeriing pump
studs

 

When people are saying wheel bearings do they mean fronts? Have heard but not sure if it is true that Murano bearings will fit and are more reliable?

I've had the front fail in my 07 G35X but it is AWD and assuming those bearings are different from the Z front.

 

Both front and rears fail, i have only had rears fail on my car, but i have changed front on other peoples cars.

Murano hubs, Fontana Nissan runs them on their race car, i don't think they allow for ABS, and don't know if they are direct fit. Will play with them at a later date.

 

^^^

read that...will like a more insight on that as well

 

Yes my diff is shot, its open now

 

We have a viscous....qualfie is a torsen.

 

In addition to UPGRADING the studs to ARP before you even begin AND having extra hubs in your spares box, I also suggest having a spare throttle body, as the sensor on it has failed on me.

As you know, upgrade your brake fluid and run some ducting if you can. Radiator and oil cooler can wait, IMO, until you run in the high heat. Upgrade the diff as well to save yourself some headache; I suggest a NISMO. Get some big wheels, 10s or 10.5s all around and some sticky 285/30 tires, and have fun. She should run without much issue if you have some spares and address the items above.

 

^- scott you make it sound so easy to go grab wide wheels and tires in 18's! bye bye ~$2500

 

Gotta pay to play.

 

So far, with only 20+ track days, it's mostly ME that fails.. lol.
Out of all the things brought up so far, I think I have only had a hub issue... but good to have the other mentioned items in mind already.

 

a clutch type diff and sticky tires is always a fun combo.

 

If you have the budget and you know you will be tracking a lot then proactively upgrade as much as you can "comfortably afford" before you start tracking. It's better to upgrade the common trouble areas before they fail. Don't wait until they fail while you're on the track.

In order:
-Swap LCA bushings to solids or poly...especially if you're lowered.
-Swap all wheel bearings. All 4 of my wheel bearings failed after one track day
-ARP wheel studs. I'm still on OEM because I'm dumb
-If lowered, get PowerGrid endlinks. Your anti-sway bars are pre-loaded
-Larger PS cooler and better fluid. I boiled my power steering fluid. Sticky tires cause more stress on power steering
-Get a real diff. Your viscous diff is long burned up
-Large oil cooler
-Koyo 54mm radiator

 

Okay, so if I'm not spinning the inside rear wheel when powering out of a turn does that mean the diff (OEM viscous) is working properly.....or that I'm just not pushing it very hard?

 

Both


I think i know the biggest failure with the Z, the driver. I had a blast outrunning the 2 FI Z's at the track this weekend.

 

^ LOL, outrunning noobs on the track, regardless of what car they're in, is nothing to brag about.

 

We inexperienced drivers like to overcompensate with horsepower.

 

What i see to often is

To many people build the car, then try learn how to drive. It really seems to kill the learning curve. Even Wetdreamz with just a little bit of track experiance running an NA Z was running much faster than the 2 FI cars.


Moral of the story, focus on driving, upgrade as required. My car was pretty close to bone stock for a while. As i got faster the PS needed a bigger cooler, then brakes, etc etc. I had so much more fun than sitting at home saving/building and never playing on the track.

Biggest failure, the driver without enough seat time.

 

Used (take-off) Hoosiers: $500-800 depending on condition
Used RPF1s: ~$1000

Combo ready for $1500-2k!

 

Nice! Seems logical to do wheel bearings and studs at the same time b4 we hit the track.

thanks for all the tips.

 

No need, just carry spares.