Trailering a Z
I own an auto transport company and move cars daily, from **** boxes to an Enzo I delivered to California 3 weeks ago. I always use wheel straps only. Done correctly it is safe. When ratcheting down the straps IF you do cross them, do not go nuts on making it so tight. Its hard to say how tight to go. But just "tight" is enough.
but if you brought me my car and the straps were on my spokes, I would not be happy, so I assume you mean tire straps
I have seen wheels cosmetically damaged that way
I've got it on the trailer right now getting ready to head to Roebling Road. And I was wondering just how tight but I think you can feel where it is just enough and one more click would be too tight. In addition to straps on front and rear wheels I've got one strap through front tow hook and one strap through the rear tow hole. Hopefully these will eliminate suspension oscillation to avoid damage as mentioned in some of the posts above.


I am talking about straight threw the wheel NOT connected to the spoke. Wheel straps threw the wheel (from one side to the other). On VERY low cars when we have no room to put a strap over the wheel this is how we do it. It will not damage your wheels with a soft strap, a soft microfiber tower or a soft wheel sleeve on the strap. I transported many exotic cars this way for 12 years. Including all Ferrari's we transport for a local dealer we have a contract with.
One more click wont hurt. Do one more click for piece of mind. By the way, I never heard of cars breaking suspension parts from suspension compression while on a trailer. That is new to me. Like someone else said, drive slow and drive smart. If you see a bump in the road slow down!
Since the beginning I have tied it down using the transportation holes built in (two in the rear "frame" rails in front of rear tires - oval reinforced holes - I use T-hooks there) and two in the front (oriented vertically - I use mini-jhooks for those) - criss cross straps to the d-rings - never had ANY issues at all - suspension or otherwise - just keep the tranny in neutral (avoid slapping) but the parking brake on...
It tows great.
One more click wont hurt. Do one more click for piece of mind. By the way, I never heard of cars breaking suspension parts from suspension compression while on a trailer. That is new to me. Like someone else said, drive slow and drive smart. If you see a bump in the road slow down!
Me? The blue one? I'm still in DE-2 and its my daily driver.......but yes...thought about it a lot. Going to move into DE-3 next time out. Would like to move into TT w/in the next year. Not sure I'll ever get to WTW.
Old thread, great trailering tips. I'm conducting my research on trailers and towing for the future. Still need to purchase a trailer. I have the towing vehicle now...
I had to trailer my nismo halfway across the country when we moved on a uhaul flatbed car hauler pulled by a 20 foot truck... it was like driving an 18 wheeler. Getting it loaded in the rain was a real pain in the a$$. I had to load it on backwards because the front diffuser would not fit over the lip of the trailer meant to stop the car from rolling off. Due to the rain the rear wheels kept spinning and sliding the car at all the raised areas of the trailer. The net-like wheel straps held the car pretty well though.
I'm buying my trailer when I get home next month, looking at 18foot with dovetail. Anything specific I should look for.
I have a feeling it will be a pain to get my car on the trailer.
I have a feeling it will be a pain to get my car on the trailer.
I had to trailer my nismo halfway across the country when we moved on a uhaul flatbed car hauler pulled by a 20 foot truck... it was like driving an 18 wheeler. Getting it loaded in the rain was a real pain in the a$$. I had to load it on backwards because the front diffuser would not fit over the lip of the trailer meant to stop the car from rolling off. Due to the rain the rear wheels kept spinning and sliding the car at all the raised areas of the trailer. The net-like wheel straps held the car pretty well though.
Reversing on a trailer with a Z is a bad idea. Most of the weight will be at the back of the trailer and act as a pendulum to upset and cause trailer sway or worse jack knife. Dont do it that way.
Trailering is all about common sense. Think it through and go slow.
Trailering is all about common sense. Think it through and go slow.
^tongue weight and tow vehicle would probably be the determining factor for me. With the uhaul truck its probably fine, from the looks of it, it still probably has some weight on the tongue. Shoot for 10% of your gross trailer weight.
If you drive a drw or truck with stiff suspension you are likely fine...eg, 2500, 1500hd, or 1500 with load rates tires/helper springs...150/1500 range truck or less im being extra careful. Probably well within rated tow capacities, and the weight distribution, though not ideal I concede, shouldn't be a problem if you keep your speed and distance in check.
Good shocks help a lot also.
The speed I see people towing at these days blows my mind.
If you drive a drw or truck with stiff suspension you are likely fine...eg, 2500, 1500hd, or 1500 with load rates tires/helper springs...150/1500 range truck or less im being extra careful. Probably well within rated tow capacities, and the weight distribution, though not ideal I concede, shouldn't be a problem if you keep your speed and distance in check.
Good shocks help a lot also.
The speed I see people towing at these days blows my mind.
Yep, you want about a 55f to 45r weight ratio. Personally I like a little more but I have a vehicle and hitch that takes a lot tounge weight.








