Upgrading standard brakes to Brembos
After the autocross season is over, we're planning to run some track events with the Z, and we're exploring a Spec Z/T3 build for next season as the SCCA Runoffs are going to be held in our hometown.
As such, our base brakes that are (mostly) fine for autocross use will be useless for road racing. As Spec Z requires OEM calipers, I'm guessing the Brembo package is our route. What's involved with swapping the base brakes for this package? Brackets the same? Lines? Hydraulics? Is there something I'm missing in the Spec Z rules that would allow another setup?
Thanks!
J.G. Pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
As such, our base brakes that are (mostly) fine for autocross use will be useless for road racing. As Spec Z requires OEM calipers, I'm guessing the Brembo package is our route. What's involved with swapping the base brakes for this package? Brackets the same? Lines? Hydraulics? Is there something I'm missing in the Spec Z rules that would allow another setup?
Thanks!
J.G. Pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
No brackets, straight bolt on just need new lines and rotors.
I seem to remember it being important to make sure to get the caliper bolts for the Brembos, but this topic has been covered so many times just search.
Like the mag btw, subscriber here. MORE TECH ARTICLES!
I seem to remember it being important to make sure to get the caliper bolts for the Brembos, but this topic has been covered so many times just search.
Like the mag btw, subscriber here. MORE TECH ARTICLES!
Just in case this fact was unknown. The later standard brake rotors are almost as big as the rotors used with Brembo calipers. The difference in rotor diameter is rather miniscule. Does the rule allow for cooling ducts?
And thanks for subscribing. Mortgage don't pay itself

J.G. Pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...bo-brakes.html
I used an angle grinder to neatly trim the lips on the rear dust shields and it still looks OEM. Maybe no one will ever see, but I know it's been done right. You'll need the Brembo type rear caliper bolts, too.
I used an angle grinder to neatly trim the lips on the rear dust shields and it still looks OEM. Maybe no one will ever see, but I know it's been done right. You'll need the Brembo type rear caliper bolts, too.
Last edited by dcains; Aug 8, 2014 at 11:50 AM.
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It's a strait swap. You don't even need to Change the lines, however it's a good idea too if rules allow. The only thing I would make sure is to get the brembo specific caliper mounting bolts for a better piece of mind.
Cooling ducts allowed
Thanks gang. Big help.
Is it worth looking for the calipers used? Or do you just suck it up and buy new ones. I noticed Rock Auto had them for about $250 per corner with the core charge. That seems somewhat reasonable, but I'd be butthurt about not being able to recoup the core.
J.G. Pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
Is it worth looking for the calipers used? Or do you just suck it up and buy new ones. I noticed Rock Auto had them for about $250 per corner with the core charge. That seems somewhat reasonable, but I'd be butthurt about not being able to recoup the core.
J.G. Pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
The ones on RockAuto are reman anyway, but presumably will have been rebuilt with new seals, boots, etc. They also come pre-loaded with poopy-quiet pads. I wonder what the quality of the refinish is.
Really just depends on how soon you need them.
You can probably score a used set with race pads and rotors if youre patient, for quite a bit cheaper (since you wont be getting the core charge back). Obviously the finish wont be 10/10 but who cares theyre gonna discolor and chip quickly anyway. If youre going to campaign with them I would definitely rebuild before installation, just makes sense.
But if you need them sooner than later, you know what they say...time is money.
Really just depends on how soon you need them.
You can probably score a used set with race pads and rotors if youre patient, for quite a bit cheaper (since you wont be getting the core charge back). Obviously the finish wont be 10/10 but who cares theyre gonna discolor and chip quickly anyway. If youre going to campaign with them I would definitely rebuild before installation, just makes sense.
But if you need them sooner than later, you know what they say...time is money.
Thanks gang. Big help.
Is it worth looking for the calipers used? Or do you just suck it up and buy new ones. I noticed Rock Auto had them for about $250 per corner with the core charge. That seems somewhat reasonable, but I'd be butthurt about not being able to recoup the core.
J.G. Pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
Is it worth looking for the calipers used? Or do you just suck it up and buy new ones. I noticed Rock Auto had them for about $250 per corner with the core charge. That seems somewhat reasonable, but I'd be butthurt about not being able to recoup the core.
J.G. Pasterjak
Grassroots Motorsports magazine
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...onversion.html
They can't dissipate the heat generated by repeated hard use, and the hotter they get the less effective they become (aka brake fade). When I upgraded my OEM non-Brembo's to Brembo's there was very little advantage to be felt during normal street driving.
Cant comment on the standard brakes bc ive never driven on them, but plenty of cars I see at the track are using floating calipers. It is hard to argue however that the ultimate capacity of the brembos isnt greater.
Last edited by guitman32; Aug 10, 2014 at 07:38 PM.







