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I concede this is probably over kill. While I liked the larger air filter element and venturi ring of the Pop-charger, I didn't like that it was exposed to underhood hot air.
R/T Tuning tested the Pop-charger out of the box with an open hood and closed hood. The closed hood showed a power loss.
I thought about different enclosures, but the space the airbox lives in is limited. In the end, making a custom aluminum airbox was the best choice and a cool little project.
I started with mocking up the design with cardboard, making sure it would fit and there would be enough free space between the airbox and the filter. Also making sure it doesn’t hit the hood.
Once I was happy with the design, I fabricated it out of aluminum using pop rivets and bolts to assemble it together. Since it was aluminum, I covered it in insulation so it wouldn’t absorb or radiate that much heat from the engine.
Has been working great and I measured a large difference between the air intake temps inside vs. the under hood temps.
Nice! How did you measure the temps? Care to share the numbers? Seems like a good idea.
Less then scientific, first I setup a test piece of aluminum and the 2 layers of insulation, pointed a heat gun at it and measure the surfaces over time. I didn't take note or measure time, but there was a 100 - 200deg F delta over the time until it reached something around 350F and the insulation started smoking. (from what I remember)
I used a good quality digital pyrometer.
After I installed my creation in the engine bay, I also measured the heated surfaces inside the airbox through the cold intake opening and a couple metal and plastic points inside the engine bay. Both just idling the engine after a drive and then also after an Autox run.
I also have a OBDlink MX and looked at the intake temps.
Really the best option would have been to buy a small thermometer and measure the temps, but I was already sold on my box being the best thing ever
This year, besides the obvious driver mods, I'm focusing on weight reduction for the car (also for the driver, but that is so damn difficult).
I would like to pull another 100lbs out of the car.
So far I got some lighter wheels, which I will use mainly for national events. I measured about 28lb difference to the 11in XXRs. Since I run a 275 tire anyway, I shouldn't see any performance difference in a 10.5in wheel.
I'm keeping my XXR to run locally trying to kill my 2016 RE71R. So far they have 200+ runs on them and I will use them until they cord. Picture below was taken after 2016 Nationals with 160 runs on the tires and OPR. I flipped them on the rim shortly after.
I will also replace the passengers seat and that should yield me another 10lbs.
2016 Nationals right side course.
My friend took a video of one of my runs.
Unfortunately this course and I were not friends. Didn't have one clean run. While disappointing, being my first trip to nationals I wasn't expecting much. So much so I only brought one set of tires which I ran on all season, had about 160 runs on them at the time. I had so little concrete experience, I just wanted to get some runs at Nationals and to know what to expect in 2017.
Bad news: no way I can meet the 90dB sound limit at Devens for the Tour. So not going.
Good news: there is a 3 day Pocono raceway infield autocross that same weekend. Even if Devens didn't have the sound limit, there is no way I'm missing the Pocono event.
Who is doing national events this year: Prosolo, Tour, Match?
I did race and went well. Two prepped cars 4 drivers. I lost it literally on the last day. I was sitting pretty in 4th. 10 total cars and had RL and cones all 4 runs. I wanted to be 5th or higher in the Bsp class and did so I was "ok" with it. Lots to learn.