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Soft brake pedal on a track (HR)

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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 03:55 AM
  #21  
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RBF660. I was told that RBF600 can last a bit longer. I will try it next season.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 05:13 AM
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You sure the seals in the calipers are not disintegrating?

Last edited by 03threefiftyz; Nov 7, 2016 at 05:15 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 08:24 AM
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No, not sure. How can I check that? Are they replacable?
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by GodISmE
No, not sure. How can I check that? Are they replacable?
Here's a thread I used to replace the seals (thanks Blurvision). I just replaced them as I've been working the car pretty hard at the track. I'd plug the lines with something so the system doesn't go dry when you take the lines off. I made the mistake of just draining the system and that's where my soft pedal came from if I recall. I'd think you can get the rebuild kit from your dealer.

It's a dirty nasty job getting the pistons to pop out at the same time. It'll definitely be easier the next time.

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/produc...50z-g35-front/


https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...th-photos.html

Last edited by JBJ; Nov 7, 2016 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 10:38 AM
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If you stick a wood block in the caliper and hit nipple with some compressed air the pistons pop right out ...
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 07:15 AM
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So after my first event this year (new RBF600 fluid, new DS2500 pads) I still seem to have this issue. The pedal is soft when braking unless I tap on it once or twice with my left foot and then brake, it's a lot firmer then.

I already have Stoptech ss lines installed. Brake fluid level stays the same. Everything is ok when driving the car daily - firm pedal all the time!

I haven't looked at the seals in the calipers yet. Is this the next thing I should do? What about the brake pump?

Last edited by GodISmE; Mar 20, 2017 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2017 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GodISmE
The pedal is soft when braking unless I tap on it once or twice with my left foot and then brake, it's a lot firmer then.
Sounds like knock back:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su.../pad-knockback
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 05:35 AM
  #28  
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I've had this similar feeling as well GodISmE and I'm fairly sure it's trapped air rather than knock-back.
Ideally you need to trigger the ABS (on gravel or with Consult), then bleed it again - I had to do this about 7 or 8 times !

And after several attempts it should firm up, also the other factor which will count for a minor bit of pedal travel is the brake pad compressing ever so slightly. I have used a few different pads now and there IS a difference.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 07:22 AM
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So you think that air is trapped in the ABS module? Any other way of getting the air out, e.g. using ECU software to cycle the pump?
How to prevent it from happening again though? The mechanic that installed my ss brake lines was not a specialist and one option is that he might have fu...d something up. On the other hand, maybe the caliper seals are letting air in and need to be replaced?
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by GodISmE
So you think that air is trapped in the ABS module? Any other way of getting the air out, e.g. using ECU software to cycle the pump?
How to prevent it from happening again though? The mechanic that installed my ss brake lines was not a specialist and one option is that he might have fu...d something up. On the other hand, maybe the caliper seals are letting air in and need to be replaced?
I had nearly the same thing happen about 4 years ago (before getting my own tools), someone that didn't know the car particularly well, and they even crushed a brake line connector. So I have 3 braided lines and one original line

Gravel - just trigger the ABS yourself on loose/wet surface, go back home and try again.
I'm not exaggerating about doing it 7+ times
Try that first before, it takes some time and gradually over a few days it improved for me.

No other software I'm aware of apart from Nissan's Consult.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 08:54 AM
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In the FSM it says to either disconnect the ABS module, or disconnect the battery, when bleeding the brakes. I've done this every time I've done my brakes and never had an issue. I've even gone from stock '07 base brakes to OEM Brembo with SS lines and it only took 1 good session with my power bleeder and the brake were perfect. Of course I disconnected the ABS module and did the order specified in the FSM each time.
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Old Mar 21, 2017 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jledford
In the FSM it says to either disconnect the ABS module, or disconnect the battery, when bleeding the brakes. I've done this every time I've done my brakes and never had an issue. I've even gone from stock '07 base brakes to OEM Brembo with SS lines and it only took 1 good session with my power bleeder and the brake were perfect. Of course I disconnected the ABS module and did the order specified in the FSM each time.
Yeah but that's not the problem, good advice sure but won't help for him (imho) - the issue is that someone else didn't do that and now he's trying to rectify it

(it's what I'm guessing at as I had the same)
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