I have an 07 Enthusiast that is a dedicated track car. It is mostly stock other than a set of used Brembos a few other minor things. (It has a custom roll bar, race seat and harnesses.)

It has generally been my philosophy to modify as little as possible to keep things simple and reliable and for the most part I'm happy with the car for running DE4 and instructing 4-5 times a year. It has been dead reliable.

My biggest issue is that it is eating front tires on the outside edge. Obviously needs more camber. I would like to get the least expensive upper A arms that will provide me with better tire wear.

In order to do that I need to know a ballpark number for front camber so I can get the right arms. So in you guy's opinion, for an unlowered and mostly stock Z what ballpark camber numbers would you throw out there?

I'm currently looking at Z1's own upper A arms. They are cheap and rebuildable. The street version can give up to -2.5 camber. For some reason the race version only gives -1.5. I'm not sure the added benefit of Heim joints on the race version would be meaningful to me and if I can get more camber with the cheaper street version I'd just do that.

Any advice much appreciated. Again, I'm not asking for someone's magic formula, just a ballpark number. Thanks.

 

George- IMHO three degrees negative camber is a good number to shoot for. In my SCCA race class, that's the max we are allowed to run, but it will be a good place to start. I suggest you look at the SPL UCAs, which are well-designed and offer a wide range of adjustment.

 

Thanks. That pretty much rules out the lower priced Z1 arms. The street ones actually go down to 2.75 and will accept solid bushings but I will look at the SPLs.

 

Consider getting a pyrometer and learn how to use it. Depending on the track and the tires you are using, you may want more or less than three degrees negative. A pyrometer will offer some clues.

 

I had the same outside edge problem with my tires from track days -- very frustrating. Changing tires to a stiffer sidewall helped some (Nitto NT05 to Dunlop Direzza Star Specs). I finally got the SPLs that Dkmura mentioned because the design seemed the sturdiest for the track. Plus with the money I was paying to replace tires so often, it was more cost effective to spring for the control arms. FYI, I just saw Z1 has them at 20% off right now. I have them set at -3.5 and that works for me.

I echo the pyrometer suggestion, but until then, you can go old-school and put chalk on the tire edges to see how far they roll after a track session.

 

-3 seems like the starting point
I will mention that ice mode and braking issues sem to happen with race camber settings

 

Thanks guys. Good advice all the way around. The budget is tight right now and I'm not a hard core track guy. (I don't spend much money on this car.) I ran mid pack with the car as it is (stock). So I might just do the street ones. Dial in -2.75 and see how they do. It can't hurt and they only cost $280 so if it doesn't work out I won't be out a ton. I'll report back if I go this route.

On a side note, I had not been on track in a long time due to COVID cancellations and such but recently went to my home track, Carolina Motorsports Park. They recently repaved the track and I'd heard good things about it. But for my car it was simply amazing. Understeer is simply gone! The first few hot laps I thought something was wrong with my car it was so noticeable. Now I'm passing and leaving cars I previously went back and forth with. Running better than mid pack. So, if you've never been to CMP or never wanted to go because of the crappy track surface it is worth giving it a second thought. They spent a ton of money on this high tech new surface and it is a whole different track now. Way more grippy, at least for now, than VIR. Also, that weekend had the largest NASA-SE turnout on record. I think it was the new pavement plus everyone was sick of being cooped up.

In the end it only takes a few million dollars in pavement to get rid of 350Z understeer!