DIY: Spring Installation #2 revised by YUSOSLO - Page 2 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 03-28-2008, 03:16 PM   #21
Jeff92se
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Thanks yusolo for the write up. I just did my springs/shocks yest on my G.

I note your rear instructions didn't include shocks. It's only 3 more bolts but I'd like to add that if you do both rear shocks/springs, do them at one time. On one side I took apart the shocks and springs and found it harder to align the lower control arm bolt if the shock wasn't installed.

On the other side, I did the spring and then did the shock after. Way easier.
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Old 04-14-2008, 09:26 AM   #22
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Thumbs up to this write up.

To those asking about spring compressors, there is no need to use one if installing lowering springs back on the car. Once you get the stock springs/shocks off the front, just put them in your grass laying on it's side, step on the spring/top plate, and undo the center nut. Once undone, the shock will jump about 6 inches or so, no big deal. The lowering springs go on the shocks without nearly any tension, so you can just thread the nut on the shaft by hand to start it.

I didn't even use an impact wrench on the shaft nut. Just use an offset 17mm wrench while holding the flat portion of the shock shaft threads from the top with an adjustable wrench.
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:31 AM   #23
yusoslo
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Great man! I am glad if I have helped one person..but it seems like I helped quiet a few fellow my350z'ers on their spring install!
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Old 04-15-2008, 07:30 AM   #24
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noice im gonna study this all week so i can put my gf210's on friday awesome write up man
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Old 04-28-2008, 05:49 AM   #25
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Thanks for the write-up. It all went pretty smooth except for a couple hiccups on my part that made the project take way longer than it should have. Still a easy install though. Thanks again.
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:26 PM   #26
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I have a question here about this step:
-Remove cotter pin and nut (17mm) on A-arm
*Use your hand to squeeze the hub and A-arm together, this relieves the pressure and makes the bolt easier to come off, plus there is no supprise falling suspension parts to worry about


Are you referring to the upper link (upper A-Arm)? I am sure I saw a cotter pin on the lower arm.

I am having huge difficulty in getting the lower arm low enough to allow the bottom of the OEM strut to come up and over it, to remove from the car.
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Old 07-02-2008, 04:53 AM   #27
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Yeah, the upper A-arm. You shouldn't need to do anything to the lower if I remember right. If you can't get it low enough, maybe get a helper and have them push down with their leg/weight to extend the lower arm more. That should give you more than enough clearance if the upper a-arm and swaybar is disconnected.
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Old 07-04-2008, 04:40 PM   #28
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I actually used the stock jack to pry open the lower arm between that and the inside of the fender... worked great, just be gentle!!!..
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Old 07-04-2008, 06:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingrukus
I have a question here about this step:
-Remove cotter pin and nut (17mm) on A-arm
*Use your hand to squeeze the hub and A-arm together, this relieves the pressure and makes the bolt easier to come off, plus there is no supprise falling suspension parts to worry about


Are you referring to the upper link (upper A-Arm)? I am sure I saw a cotter pin on the lower arm.

I am having huge difficulty in getting the lower arm low enough to allow the bottom of the OEM strut to come up and over it, to remove from the car.
Don't u just play with the angles? After removing all the nuts attached to the strut and the a-arm disconnected, I just swung the the bottom of the strut towards the engine and pushed down on the brake caliper. once that a-arm is disconnected, the whole assembly should be able to rotate a lot.
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:23 PM   #30
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Put mine on today (GF210) and also installed the SPC rear camber arms and toe bolts. The ride height is not uniform on all 4 corners. Will an alignment bring these to where they need to be or is there a problem with one of the springs. 3 of the 4 cormers are all pretty close ant it is one of the rears that seems way off. The gap between the fenders is 1" front and 3/4" rear drivers side. And 3/4" front and 2" rear passangers side. The 2" gap on the rear wheel needs to be addressed.

Any suggestions?

Last edited by MikeyG; 07-05-2008 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:33 PM   #31
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Is the rear spring aligned with the seat in the lower control arm? If the spring isn't oriented right so that the end of the coil lays in the lowest part of the seat, it would make that corner sit higher.
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Old 07-05-2008, 05:48 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nramsey
Is the rear spring aligned with the seat in the lower control arm? If the spring isn't oriented right so that the end of the coil lays in the lowest part of the seat, it would make that corner sit higher.
Yes we did make sure to check that it was aligned properly in the seat in the spring bucket. I may take it off again tomorrow just to make sure everything is lined up right. Just doesn't seem right to me. Even if the camber arm is way out of wack it souldn't change the wheel gap, just the camber right?
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Old 07-05-2008, 09:15 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyG
Yes we did make sure to check that it was aligned properly in the seat in the spring bucket. I may take it off again tomorrow just to make sure everything is lined up right. Just doesn't seem right to me. Even if the camber arm is way out of wack it souldn't change the wheel gap, just the camber right?
It might. My ride height seemed to change slightly in the back when I had my alignment done, but not as much as you mention.
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Old 07-06-2008, 06:12 AM   #34
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Now I feel pretty stupid. When I checked the wheel gaps, the car was parked in my driveway that has a good incline where it was. I thought it was level left to right but when I pulled the car to the top where it was a little flatter, I noticed the gap at the rear right wasn't as big. This sparked the bright idea to go find a flat parking lot and check the drop at each wheel. I brought a piece of aluminum stock that I could just place on top of each tire to extend out past the fender and get a good measurement and what do ya know. Fronts are both 5/8" and rears are both 1 1/8". That is a little better! This is with 18" wheels.
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:59 PM   #35
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Nice DIY

take about 3 hours and i never made it before.

No compressor spring needed
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:39 PM   #36
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What springs are most people using that didn't need a compressor? We had to compress the springs a ton to get them back on the stock shocks. They were Tanabe GF210. I would say we compressed about 1.5-2" to get them back together.
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Old 09-25-2008, 01:39 PM   #37
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Hi guys, I just have one question. For the upper A-Arm, do you need a ball joint separator or something like that to take the joint apart besides just taking the bolt out? This is the only thing I'm having a question about. Also, can someone explaint to me how you would use a stock jack to pry apart the arm. I see Whoopazz1 said it's the lower arm. How does this work? and is it the upper or the lower arm that gets taken apart?

Thanks for the help guys. The Z is a little more complicated that the old rice burner I used to drive when I was a teenager. lol.

Have a good day.
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Old 09-25-2008, 05:50 PM   #38
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No, you don't need any special ball joint tool. The ball joint should separate very easily. As for the jack, I didn't use one, I just used a long breaker bar to push down the lower arm with my leg while pushing the top one up and removing the shock if I remember right. Kind of a 3 handed job, but you can get by yourself if you're creative. It will make sense once you're in there.
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Old 09-25-2008, 06:08 PM   #39
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glad to see this still helping people
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:07 AM   #40
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Thanks nramsey for the reply and yososlo for starting this thread. I guess it just ends up sounding pretty simple. No need for spring compressor or the ball join remover. With a borrowed air compressor and air tools, sounds like I will be able to have at least part of my Saturday afternoon to do something else.

Thanks again!
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