Thanks J. My Z is stored and I have the whole of winter to do this. Hopefully it won't take me that long. Lol. Very helpful writeup

 

Look in the following thread on page 2, a post by sdavis1090 has all the pics referencing the 350z. Hope that helps

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...g35-coupe.html

 

How similar is this to a full coilover install? Do I need a spring compressor? Is there a good DIY around? I've done a search and most of them seem to be on sites that no longer work. I've helped friends do a couple installs a few years back but am a bit rusty and it would be good to have something to refer to if I need it.

 

Thanks for the DIY was beyond helpful. I'm just not sure how you guys manged to do this in under 6 hours. I just finished off doing KW V1 install (so more than just springs) and I started yesterday afternoon. lol. Not proud of that fact but it seems like every corner had it's own problems. I used release-all on the bolts but some just refused to come off, had to go out and pick up an impact driver to break them loose. Also, the mentioned 1/8" lift on the rear spring cradle wasn't enough, i think i raised that b!tch 1"+. As for the front bolts holding in the sway bars up front, well they have turned me off any sway bar upgrades in the future. I ended up using two similar but somewhat different methods that were written up on the forums.

I was quoted $140 for install, after dealing with this I probably should have gone that route but I do have to say it was satisfying doing it myself. I am soar as fawk tho!

And the madness has begun.....

 

I'm wondering.
Im putting GF210's on this weekend.

I am deciding using a precut bump stop (1/2" off) or using stock one.

I have SPC toe bolts, but wondering if I need to install those (i dont feel like dremel`ing if dont have to).

I just want an alignment to put it back into spec.
Im on aftermarket 18" wheels with alignment in perfect check right now.
Everything else on suspension is stock.

Just hoping with gf210 install, that i will be able to get back into alignment spec. i would consider the cut bump stop if someone would honestly think I could get alignment back into spec without camber kit, etc..

remember i only have toe bolts (not installed so far) as well as gf210's.

let me know opinions, please

 

To those saying that a spring compressor is not needed for aftermarket springs:

I don't think that's always true. I just got done removing a set of Hotchkis springs from my 2006 350z front struts and they were indeed compressed some amount between the lower perch and top hat of the strut (this is with the strut assembly removed from the car). IMO, unless the spring can freely travel between the perch and top hat, then the only 'safe' way to remove it is to use spring compressors.

Also, how are you deciding where to set the nut on the end of the strut rod? Do you just tighten it until you feel it's tight enough? Do you tighten it until you run out of threads? Seems to me that tightening that nut different amounts (i.e. to different axial locations on the rod) will result in different "pre-loads" on the strut, meaning different lengths in the overall strut assemblies as they sit on the bench.

I've never installed springs so that's the genesis of my curiosity. I installed my coilovers myself, but the springs are already mounted to the front struts at some set length so I never had to deal with it.

 

I have a squeak in my front left wheel area.
I just installed tanabe gf210's a couple days ago.
i basically have plans on taking that side back off and basically redoing the whole process.

but i know this is kinda dumb, but anyone have a good guess already? (i know it could just about be anything)

 

I just bought GF210s myself... message me and let me know if you fix it so I d ont make yhe same mistake id appreciate it... looking to put blue tokicos with them... good or bad ideA?

 

Ok, so i just bought the KW V2s and I want to install them. After a long process, I was able to jack up the car, remove the passenger tire, remove the stripped suspension bolt, remove the sway bar bolt, but i cannot for the life of me remove that back transverse link bolt. The one thats deepest in there, away from the tire. A 19mm 6-point socket fits great, but even after soaking it all night with PB blaster and then using a 15" breaker bar, I cannot get this nut to nudge. I have even tried to jack up the transverse link a little to remove pressure on the bolt. My thinking that this my make removing the nut easier, even though I didnt have to do this on any of the other nuts. Nope, that nut still willnot come out.

I'm doing this in my driveway. My roomate and I are both gym guys, and this ****er just isnt moving. And due to that black arm/pump-looking thing to its immediate left (pic here), i dont have the room to use my impact wrench, which may or may not work anyways.

Any suggestions? A larger breaker bar?

 

Lots of talk about spring compressors, ive always found them to be a bit of a pita to use, ive had good luck using 2 cargo straps to relieve tension... It also avoids the metal on metal contact..

 

Yeah so I get it now... The front is a *****... I just cut the front springs and then cargo strapped them, and still had to push down on the upper control arm with a 2x4... I suppose I should have disconnected the sway bar... But whatever it worked... Also impact and large braker bar helped a bunch