TECH: 350Evo sway bar installation
06-24-2005, 08:20 PM
#41
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I'm getting the yellow konis and the evo front sway at the same time.
Had a number of questions:
1. Is it fair to say that I should remove the stock shocks, then replace the stock sway with the 350evo, then install the front konis?
2. If I'm replacing the front and rear shocks, (not springs) is it fair to say that I definitely need to get an alignment afterwards? (And that brings up the point of: do I need to go to a nissan dealership who has the proper alignment settings to 'reduce' feathering?
3. If I don't have ramps (only have jack stands) how do you tighten the sway under weight as suggested by John?
I know there's a lot here - but would really appreciate your thoughts on all 3.
Thanks for the help!
Had a number of questions:
1. Is it fair to say that I should remove the stock shocks, then replace the stock sway with the 350evo, then install the front konis?
2. If I'm replacing the front and rear shocks, (not springs) is it fair to say that I definitely need to get an alignment afterwards? (And that brings up the point of: do I need to go to a nissan dealership who has the proper alignment settings to 'reduce' feathering?
3. If I don't have ramps (only have jack stands) how do you tighten the sway under weight as suggested by John?
I know there's a lot here - but would really appreciate your thoughts on all 3.
Thanks for the help!
06-25-2005, 06:41 AM
#42
1. Ultimately, the front shock install will have you disconnecting the sway bar end links to gain greater downward suspension travel to get the shock/spring assemblies out and onto the car. So, if you want. Do the shock's first, leaving the end links unattached for your sway bar installation next.
2. Nothing really will changes geometry wise. BUT, IMO I would align for no other reason then to make sure your within spec and to make sure your set to the specs you yourself might want. You might want to look at the first TSB that govern's the issue, it spell's out what you should look for concerning a shops alignment equipment.
3. You should be able to snake your arm in their and a wrench to tighten the end link to the bar and to the suspension arm.
2. Nothing really will changes geometry wise. BUT, IMO I would align for no other reason then to make sure your within spec and to make sure your set to the specs you yourself might want. You might want to look at the first TSB that govern's the issue, it spell's out what you should look for concerning a shops alignment equipment.
3. You should be able to snake your arm in their and a wrench to tighten the end link to the bar and to the suspension arm.
06-29-2005, 08:05 PM
#44
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Yet another question from the noob:
I was about to reverse the end link when I noticed that the end originally attached to the oem sway has a special washer with a tab at a 90 deg angle. I haven't checked to see if it fits, as I'm waiting for the konis to arrive tomorrow. Was just curious if this was normal. No one had any pics.
Additionally, you can see the other end had a loose washer. Do you swap that as well? Hell, I'm not even convinced this is the end link in question, but it seemed to make sense at the time.
I was about to reverse the end link when I noticed that the end originally attached to the oem sway has a special washer with a tab at a 90 deg angle. I haven't checked to see if it fits, as I'm waiting for the konis to arrive tomorrow. Was just curious if this was normal. No one had any pics.
Additionally, you can see the other end had a loose washer. Do you swap that as well? Hell, I'm not even convinced this is the end link in question, but it seemed to make sense at the time.
06-30-2005, 02:04 AM
#45
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Originally Posted by broohaha
Yet another question from the noob:
I was about to reverse the end link when I noticed that the end originally attached to the oem sway has a special washer with a tab at a 90 deg angle. I haven't checked to see if it fits, as I'm waiting for the konis to arrive tomorrow. Was just curious if this was normal. No one had any pics.
Additionally, you can see the other end had a loose washer. Do you swap that as well? Hell, I'm not even convinced this is the end link in question, but it seemed to make sense at the time.
I was about to reverse the end link when I noticed that the end originally attached to the oem sway has a special washer with a tab at a 90 deg angle. I haven't checked to see if it fits, as I'm waiting for the konis to arrive tomorrow. Was just curious if this was normal. No one had any pics.
Additionally, you can see the other end had a loose washer. Do you swap that as well? Hell, I'm not even convinced this is the end link in question, but it seemed to make sense at the time.
Not sure I'm totally getting your question. Does this help?
06-30-2005, 05:17 AM
#46
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It does help. My point was that no one mentioned that you have to deform the existing parts. (I wasn't going to assume that.) I'm guessing you swapped the loose washer from the one end (with the bolt) to the new end with the tab? (You can see it in the picture.)
06-30-2005, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by broohaha
It does help. My point was that no one mentioned that you have to deform the existing parts. (I wasn't going to assume that.) I'm guessing you swapped the loose washer from the one end (with the bolt) to the new end with the tab? (You can see it in the picture.)
Yeah, I was abit surprised when I found this out also. But if I rember correctly, the Hotchkis install directions say to bend it. I don't remember swapping the washers. I think I left each washer in the same location they were in with the OEM sways.
I guess I'm not understanding why you would want to change the washer locations.
Have you recieved the 350evo sways yet? If so are there install directions included?
06-30-2005, 07:36 AM
#48
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Reason for swapping: the end with the tab is a fixed washer of sorts. The other end has a loose washer. I had assumed that there was a reason for this - to allow rotation.
Got the sway last night (only have the front due to autoX restrictions.) Couldn't find any grease for the bushings as well.
The install instructions are a bit light: a sentence to explain that you need to rotate the end links 180 degrees, and a copy of the service manual FSU part diagram. So effectively none, hence the existance of this thread.
Got the sway last night (only have the front due to autoX restrictions.) Couldn't find any grease for the bushings as well.
The install instructions are a bit light: a sentence to explain that you need to rotate the end links 180 degrees, and a copy of the service manual FSU part diagram. So effectively none, hence the existance of this thread.
06-30-2005, 07:59 AM
#49
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Originally Posted by broohaha
Reason for swapping: the end with the tab is a fixed washer of sorts. The other end has a loose washer. I had assumed that there was a reason for this - to allow rotation.
Got the sway last night (only have the front due to autoX restrictions.) Couldn't find any grease for the bushings as well.
The install instructions are a bit light: a sentence to explain that you need to rotate the end links 180 degrees, and a copy of the service manual FSU part diagram. So effectively none, hence the existance of this thread.
Got the sway last night (only have the front due to autoX restrictions.) Couldn't find any grease for the bushings as well.
The install instructions are a bit light: a sentence to explain that you need to rotate the end links 180 degrees, and a copy of the service manual FSU part diagram. So effectively none, hence the existance of this thread.
Last edited by pulpz2; 06-30-2005 at 08:07 AM.
06-30-2005, 01:03 PM
#50
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Jesus Christ you people make things more difficult than they need to be.... you must not be drinking enough beer while you're doing this.
It also may have helped that I used a two-tree lift instead of jack stands
At any rate:
You don't have to take the exhaust off, if you completely disconnect the rear sway and rotate it longitudinally, you can squeak it out over the midpipe (true-dual folks, i think you'll still need to remove exhaust, doh!) -- just keep trying, 'cause I just did it.
You don't have to deform any of the OEM parts to get them to work (as long as you use the softest front setting) -- for the other two, you're going to have to bend it, though I was pretty sure it fit, oh well...
And thirdly, you don't have to remove the shock, while you've got the sway in the brackets, but not attached to the control arms, just push up on the center of the sway bar (or was it pull down, fack, i can't remember... too much EtOH mechanical helper) -- at any rate, you can deflect the endlinks of the sway bars enough to avoid the shock column and slip the connector rod guys right on.
And now back to your regularly scheduled program
It also may have helped that I used a two-tree lift instead of jack stands
At any rate:
You don't have to take the exhaust off, if you completely disconnect the rear sway and rotate it longitudinally, you can squeak it out over the midpipe (true-dual folks, i think you'll still need to remove exhaust, doh!) -- just keep trying, 'cause I just did it.
You don't have to deform any of the OEM parts to get them to work (as long as you use the softest front setting) -- for the other two, you're going to have to bend it, though I was pretty sure it fit, oh well...
And thirdly, you don't have to remove the shock, while you've got the sway in the brackets, but not attached to the control arms, just push up on the center of the sway bar (or was it pull down, fack, i can't remember... too much EtOH mechanical helper
) -- at any rate, you can deflect the endlinks of the sway bars enough to avoid the shock column and slip the connector rod guys right on.And now back to your regularly scheduled program
06-30-2005, 04:39 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by Machupo
Jesus Christ you people make things more difficult than they need to be.... you must not be drinking enough beer while you're doing this.
It also may have helped that I used a two-tree lift instead of jack stands
At any rate:
You don't have to take the exhaust off, if you completely disconnect the rear sway and rotate it longitudinally, you can squeak it out over the midpipe (true-dual folks, i think you'll still need to remove exhaust, doh!) -- just keep trying, 'cause I just did it.
You don't have to deform any of the OEM parts to get them to work (as long as you use the softest front setting) -- for the other two, you're going to have to bend it, though I was pretty sure it fit, oh well...
And thirdly, you don't have to remove the shock, while you've got the sway in the brackets, but not attached to the control arms, just push up on the center of the sway bar (or was it pull down, fack, i can't remember... too much EtOH mechanical helper) -- at any rate, you can deflect the endlinks of the sway bars enough to avoid the shock column and slip the connector rod guys right on.
And now back to your regularly scheduled program
It also may have helped that I used a two-tree lift instead of jack stands
At any rate:
You don't have to take the exhaust off, if you completely disconnect the rear sway and rotate it longitudinally, you can squeak it out over the midpipe (true-dual folks, i think you'll still need to remove exhaust, doh!) -- just keep trying, 'cause I just did it.
You don't have to deform any of the OEM parts to get them to work (as long as you use the softest front setting) -- for the other two, you're going to have to bend it, though I was pretty sure it fit, oh well...
And thirdly, you don't have to remove the shock, while you've got the sway in the brackets, but not attached to the control arms, just push up on the center of the sway bar (or was it pull down, fack, i can't remember... too much EtOH mechanical helper
) -- at any rate, you can deflect the endlinks of the sway bars enough to avoid the shock column and slip the connector rod guys right on.And now back to your regularly scheduled program
I probably confused things a bit when I piped up and said, "With the Hotchkis I had to do this..."
Maybe I shoulda' kept my mouth shut.
07-04-2005, 08:40 AM
#53
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In case anyone cares:
Since you reverse the end links, there is no need to bend the tab. The 'tabbed' piece connects to the transverse link. You just rotate the end until the tab clears. So as far as my set-up, I can change the stiffness without any modification to the oem parts.
(BTW, I love the new set up with the yellow konis and 350evo front sway! Makes a huge difference in handling.)
Since you reverse the end links, there is no need to bend the tab. The 'tabbed' piece connects to the transverse link. You just rotate the end until the tab clears. So as far as my set-up, I can change the stiffness without any modification to the oem parts.
(BTW, I love the new set up with the yellow konis and 350evo front sway! Makes a huge difference in handling.)
06-13-2007, 01:57 AM
#54
Originally Posted by John
If you get on your hands and knees, you can see it goes below the exhaust piping. I have scraped the bar on a few occasions, mainly because DC roads are atrocious. Also, I scraped it when I went two wheels off coming out of Oak Tree at VIR and I was straddling the curbing. That's about it though. I've scraped my exhaust and cats more than I've scraped the sway bar. Having driven on Nor Cal roads before, you won't have any problems.
Will the 350evo sways clear the GReddy exhaust or other dual exhaust systems?
08-15-2007, 12:13 PM
#56
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Can I ask about how long this job takes for the mechanically inclined?? I'm planning on a set of Hotchkis sways. While I'm at it, how long does it normally take to do the springs as well?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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