quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

Just did my fronts. Relatively easy. I messed up on driver side not sure if anybody ever even notices, but I just read the DIY again and it's not noted. But the brake pad wearing tab, when you take off your old brakes, there is a metal tab (not sure what it's even for) but it mounts inside the hole of the brake pad wear tab. I put new pads on and did not notice they went inside the hole. Had to take apart the entire driver side again just to get that clip in. Both outter and inner has one.

harrieyu

iTrader: (4)

subscribing for use later

Barzten1

iTrader: (18)

Awsome

NISMOFO

iTrader: (28)

Nismo Pad owners:

for the front pads, did you transfer the metal plates from the OEM pads onto the nismo pads? it doesn't appear to be necessary since the nismo pads have a built-plate it seems.

Steven622

iTrader: (2)

I did this yesterday and I did it quite a bit quicker and easier then it was even said here

1. take wheel off
2. take 2 14mm bolts off
3. slide caliper off
4. get c-clamp and compress piston
5. take off old pads
6. put new pads in -- did transfer plates, its not like it will matter either way, will just add a bit more pressure
7. put the caliper back on
8. put the wheel back on
9. pumped brakes


The brakepads on the 350 are nothing in comparison to others

350zx6r

you mean easier or harder?

VQdriver

iTrader: (1)

hey guy's. i need a little help. i'm pretty exhausted here from working on my car all afternoon. i decided to do trans/diff fluid and oil/filter change along with coolant. then after that i decided to tackle installing new discs, pads and stainless lines. my question is: on the front pads the oem pads had tabs on them that look like loops (in post #1 the OP labeled it as the "wear indicator"). my axxis pads only have them on half the set like the OP's hawks. the tabs appear to loop around a little spring that extends outward of the shim assembly. should i put the loop on the piston side or the outward side of the rotor? it looks as if i should put it on the outside part otherwise the extended spring might make contact with the wheel when it's installed. however, the OP said to put it on the piston side because it serves to protect the piston from scoring. i'm confused. should i follow the OP and then cut off the extending spring from the outward facing one? i'll be double checking tomorrow when i finish the job. thanks for any help.
edit: so i'm finally finished. i followed the two threads here about pad change and SS line swap plus line bleeding. they were pretty helpful. i also used www.infinitihelp.com which helped me doing the rears. i'm glad i finished the job by myself. i'm not 100% happy with the pedal firmness. i'll give it a couple days before i re-bleed. otherwise the pads grip awesome and i saved a ton of money by DIY, using 88rotors and gruppe-s lines. hopefully it works out in the long run.

bender

iTrader: (3)

I just started mine. I also replaced the rotors. The fronts are incredibly easy because you've got a lot of room to work with. They were a breeze.

The back however is another story. Not all bolts are easily accessible. There's not enough clearance to get a socket wrench in there (atleast with all the socket wrenches I own). I was forced to use an open end wrench. I hate using them and they're only good for stripping bolts. I tried anyways and guess what, it slipped on the bolt. Anyone have any tips? I'm afraid of ruining the bolt further.

VQdriver

iTrader: (1)

go to http://www.infinitihelp.com/ and find the DIY rear brake replacement section. it shows you how to do it properly. use an extension and a socket along with a breaker bar to get that lower bolt off...i know which one you're talking about

jjashik18

iTrader: (11)

hey guys, i just finished changing my fronts last night but i have a question.

i didnt have a clamp to adjust the piston so i man-handled it by pushing an old brake pad with a plier. God, that was such a bi*tch....

anyways i pushed the piston in but it was not evenly pushed in, but the caliper went over the pads...

is this okay? does the piston auto adjust evenly after im done installing?

VQdriver

iTrader: (1)

you should be ok.

OldDirty Z33

Also when pushing the caliper back make sure to do one side at a time. Meaning that when doing the drivers side that the passengers side is sill bolted on so you don't push the piston out.

chromesilverz

Real nice instructions. Thanks.

Piece of cake after taking it apart and getting a better idea what the shims were.

Save me almost $200 doing it myself.

DML85

Nice instructions! I just got some tools for christmas so I can now start doing my own work on my car. This was my first project and it went smooth!

Thanks for the great instructions

Lug

I changed the front brake pads with Hawk Pro Ceramic pads today. It went very smooth thanks to your instructions. I also changed the front rotors, a bad lugnut stud, and washed the hell out of the front rims. Over all, today was one productive superbowl Sunday.

Thanks again for the writeup!

j.arnaldo

...thanks to you I decided I'm actually paying for my brake job! At 60, I wouldn't even consider going thru' that torment! Thanks, anyway.

Lug

I changed the rear brake pads today. I used the infinity brake video as a guide this time. I wanted to change the rotors but both rear rotors had very little ware. So i just changed the pads.

Thanks for the link to the video, it really helped.

VQdriver

iTrader: (1)

how do you like those hawks? which model are they? is it true they don't bite as hard as the stockers do initially?

Lug

The hawk pads are quiet, and do have much less brake dust then the OEM pads. As far as stopping power goes- i think the OEM pads had better bite then these hawk pads. Braking with the hawk pads is very smooth and responsive, but I think I have to apply "sightly" more foot pressure to stop sometimes.

The extra foot pressure might be my fault though. During the installation process, while using a c-clamp to compress the calipers, brake fluid overflowed out of the brake fluid tank. I didnt replace any fluid, so the brake fluid level is lower then it was, but well within spec. So maybe the lack of bite with the hawks pads is due the lower brake fluid level.

Overall, I am happy with the hawk pads and will buy them again.


I bought the pads from summitracing.com

Front: HWK-HB268Z-665

Rear: HWK-HB370Z-559

VQdriver

iTrader: (1)

i doubt your fluid level has anything to do with the initial bite coming from the hawk pads. make sure you bleed the brakes and top it off. most people here would agree that their intitial bite isn't that great. i think even axxis ult pads have slightly less bite then the oem pad. however i don't know if it's the pad or the disc that's causing that for sure. i've had my brake setup for a little less than 2,000 miles.