How-to: Change Brake Pads - Page 3 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 04-16-2004, 04:29 PM   #41
mode101
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great pics! thanks!
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Old 04-16-2004, 04:40 PM   #42
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Thanks for the write-up and pictorial. This thread is now bookmarked for when the time comes...
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Old 04-16-2004, 08:20 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by yobri
Thanks for the write-up and pictorial. This thread is now bookmarked for when the time comes...
Good idea on the bookmarking. You sure can't use the search to find it.
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Old 07-09-2004, 12:36 PM   #44
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For those like myself who simply will not do anything without the proper torque settings for projects; the rear 14mm bolts get torqued to a max of 22 ft-lbs and the fronts to 36 ft-lbs.
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Old 07-18-2004, 07:47 PM   #45
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Dumb question of the day: How do you apply the brake cleaner?

Do I just spray it over the caliper and pads and then wipe it off with a clean towel. The shop manual talks about cleaning the dust with a vacuum dust collector and do not blow with compressed air.

It also says to replace shims and shim cover as a set when replacing brake pads. I thought we could simply reuse the old shims on the new pads????

Thanks in advance, guys.

BTW: Great write up. Stuff like this makes this forum a goldmine.
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Old 09-11-2004, 05:16 PM   #46
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K just replace the stock brakes with Hawks HPS, can someone tell me why transfer over the old black plates since the new brake pads already have metal plates on them. All I transfer over was the silver plate for the back side, thx.
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Old 09-29-2004, 07:44 AM   #47
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what happen to the steps where you have to bleed the brake? or did i miss something here????
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Old 09-29-2004, 11:28 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally posted by ricks350z
what happen to the steps where you have to bleed the brake? or did i miss something here????
No need to bleed the brakes for a simple brake pad change. Bleeding the brakes is needed when removing the entire caliper which is necessary when removing the rotor.
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Old 10-08-2004, 06:07 PM   #49
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Default hawks pad

wtf!!!

I just got the hawks hps and it already has the shim on it...I tried to put the oem shims on it and it wont fit...in addition, I didn't have to put any quiet grease on it whatsoever.

I was kinda confuse at first but after installing the pads, there's no squeaking or squealing sound.

I follow the break-in of the pads as close as possible...and still no sounds or any viberation.....

This hawks pad is awesome!!

I will test it out again Saturday just to make sure.

Not bad for $45 of this front hawks pad


Thank you Rhonda of www.bonesenterprises.com
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Old 10-08-2004, 10:18 PM   #50
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thanks , gonna use this in a ccouple days, as for the person worrying about 15000 miles being soon, im at 8k and squealing away.
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:27 AM   #51
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is there a need to put a thin layer of grease between the small shim and the caliper? I've heard to definetely put between the brake pad/large shim and between the large/small shim, but not sure about between the small shim and the caliper.



Quote:
Originally posted by droideka
Four things to add...

1. You DO NOT have to remove both slider pins from the caliper. Removing the top slider (bolt) allows the bottom pin to act as a hinge and you can rotate the top of the caliper off of the assembly allowing access to the pads.

2. Before you go pushing the piston in to make room for new pads, thoroughly clean off the piston and dust boot with brake cleaner. Make it look like new. The build-up of brake dust will score the pistons if you go forcing it back in.

3. Step 14 (swapping shims) is NOT optional on the inboard (piston facing) pads. The shim on the inboard pad protects the piston face from scoring when it deflects. The bare backing plates of pads will wear down that single piston face. This is not an issue on mulitple piston calipers (StopTech, Brembo). In addition, when transferring the shims from one set to another they need to be thoroughly cleaned and re-lubed with high-temp grease. I use High-temp Silicone found at NAPA. You should first apply grease to the pad backing plate, put the first shim on, apply another layer of grease on top of the shim you just replaced and affix the second shim. There are two shims on each pad. If you don't re-lube the shims, you should encounter a lot of squeaking because the shims will be shifting on the backing plate.

4. If you want to do all for corners at once, you can lift the entire side of the car on that one jack point. I DO NOT recommend doing so with the **** jack that comes with the Z. Get a good floor jack with low clearance (I recommend the Harbor Freight aluminum racing jack) and lift the car just enough to slide two jack stands under at their lowest height.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:05 PM   #52
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this should be a sticky minus the posts.
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Old 11-02-2004, 11:28 AM   #53
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Bump! I would like to know the answer to this too...

Quote:
Originally posted by pargion
is there a need to put a thin layer of grease between the small shim and the caliper? I've heard to definetely put between the brake pad/large shim and between the large/small shim, but not sure about between the small shim and the caliper.
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Old 11-03-2004, 06:53 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally posted by MikeW
Thanks for the lesson. I've got Hawks still in the box and will be installing soon.
I am considering replacing my OEM brake pads with the Hawk HPS pads, but will this void my warranty in any way?
The technician at the dealership said it might (they are slightly incompetent there!).
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Old 11-03-2004, 01:32 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally posted by roydiculous
Bump! I would like to know the answer to this too...
I haven't, but I can't think of why it would do any harm either. It may actually collect dirt and grime would be the only reason I wouldn't. The grease is just to keep everything from vibrating at a frequench that squeals. The shims keep the backing of the pad from digging into the piston and damaging it's face.
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Old 11-03-2004, 01:34 PM   #56
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Won't void your warranty. They won't do any harm (unless you enjoy washing your wheels of brake dust every day, then you won't have that pleasure. ) and the dealership would have the burdeon of proving that they somehow caused whatever damage resulted in the required warranty service.
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Old 11-18-2004, 08:25 PM   #57
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Glad I read this thread all the way thorugh.. Forgot about the shims when I did the front, so I did the rears and was thinking I was going to have to do the front again with the shims, but you're all saying the hawk HPS pads come pre-shimmed?

Did you all follow the break-in instructions ont he hawk pads, i.e bunch of moderate stops from 35, then a few hard stops from 45...
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Old 11-19-2004, 07:24 AM   #58
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ive been told to ignore the break in instructions and follow traditional bedding in procedure
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Old 11-19-2004, 08:38 AM   #59
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You do need the shims. Otherwise the backing from the pad will dig into the piston and damage it. The piston will also damage the backing of the pad and potentially weaken it.

I did follow the break-in instructions. I was squeak free for about 6 months and then the squeak showed up. I bedded them again and it went away for another 6 mo. Well worth it to not have all the dust. Much more gradual take-up on them (no hard initial bite at low speed like the old ones) which I like, some don't.

So yes , you do still need the shims from the stock pads (at least you did when I did mine).



Quote:
Originally posted by Dissident
Glad I read this thread all the way thorugh.. Forgot about the shims when I did the front, so I did the rears and was thinking I was going to have to do the front again with the shims, but you're all saying the hawk HPS pads come pre-shimmed?

Did you all follow the break-in instructions ont he hawk pads, i.e bunch of moderate stops from 35, then a few hard stops from 45...
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Old 11-19-2004, 09:32 AM   #60
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Actually, I did go back and look, and the Hawk pads I got had a shim on them already.... What is the "traditional bedding in procedure"? I just did what the hawk pads said and they seem ok for now... Guess we'll see how they hold up...
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