IMPROVEMENTS on our Camber kits
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I just wanted to post about our camber kits as we have made several improvments to their design/performance.
We now make all of our suspension out of alloy steel, with a powdercoated gloss black finish. This means our arms are lighter than before, and stronger.
** Our Front A-arms have in the past given some problems in terms of noise (squeeking, or chatter) which we have eliminated. We have spec'd down the dimension around the bushing, relieving pressure on the bushing. We also pre-grease them so they are ready for installation. The main upgrade we made to the arms was the addition of a Teflon liner to the ball joint section. This totally eliminates any "slop" or chatter in the joint, and also ensures smooth operation for years.
The a-arms also come with new grease fittings so they can be serviced with new grease while on the vehicle. We have made all these improvements, but have not raised the price.
** We believe we offer the best solution for front camber because of the amount of positive camber which can be adjusted. Most people like to add positive camber, to re "straighten" their wheel up and down, to save tire wear.
The problem with positive camber on this vehicle, is that the ball joint will begin to hit the inner fender well of the vehicle as the ball joint is cambered out. If you look on most designs, the extra material past the ball joint is going to limit the amount it can be adjusted before hitting the sheet metal. This is why we originally chose the type of ball joint we have, as opposed to a sliding unit. Our ball joint offers the most clearance past the ball joint, so it offers the most amount of positive camber adjustability.
I am posting pics in the next few minutes.
Also, Zachchrosen is hosting a group buy, starting today which offers front a-arms for 325.00 shipped, and rear camber/traction packages for 325.00 shipped as well. The chance to get full camber front and back for 650.00 is awesome
Admins, please keep this in the suspension forum, because we want to show all the changes made to our arms.
We now make all of our suspension out of alloy steel, with a powdercoated gloss black finish. This means our arms are lighter than before, and stronger.
** Our Front A-arms have in the past given some problems in terms of noise (squeeking, or chatter) which we have eliminated. We have spec'd down the dimension around the bushing, relieving pressure on the bushing. We also pre-grease them so they are ready for installation. The main upgrade we made to the arms was the addition of a Teflon liner to the ball joint section. This totally eliminates any "slop" or chatter in the joint, and also ensures smooth operation for years.
The a-arms also come with new grease fittings so they can be serviced with new grease while on the vehicle. We have made all these improvements, but have not raised the price.
** We believe we offer the best solution for front camber because of the amount of positive camber which can be adjusted. Most people like to add positive camber, to re "straighten" their wheel up and down, to save tire wear.
The problem with positive camber on this vehicle, is that the ball joint will begin to hit the inner fender well of the vehicle as the ball joint is cambered out. If you look on most designs, the extra material past the ball joint is going to limit the amount it can be adjusted before hitting the sheet metal. This is why we originally chose the type of ball joint we have, as opposed to a sliding unit. Our ball joint offers the most clearance past the ball joint, so it offers the most amount of positive camber adjustability.
I am posting pics in the next few minutes.
Also, Zachchrosen is hosting a group buy, starting today which offers front a-arms for 325.00 shipped, and rear camber/traction packages for 325.00 shipped as well. The chance to get full camber front and back for 650.00 is awesome
Admins, please keep this in the suspension forum, because we want to show all the changes made to our arms.
Here are the pix of their updated suspension components.
And here is a link to the GB Robert is referring to.
https://my350z.com/forum/group-buys/120216-kinetix-gbs-all-products-except-y-pipe.html
And here is a link to the GB Robert is referring to.
https://my350z.com/forum/group-buys/120216-kinetix-gbs-all-products-except-y-pipe.html
I can't seem to get those pics to come up, could you send them to me @ frostyrock7c@aol.com? I know that you are sellling these suspension components to return your car to spec, but have you had any racing/auto-xing usage? I raced my last 350 a lot and I'd be interested in lowering this new one and using your components but would they allow me to put a large amount of camber on them for racing purposes? While I am a big fan of Kinetix, especially that new manifold(which I'm 4th on the list for) I must admit, no offense, it looks "flimsy" by comparison to 350Evo's or Stillen's. I think it is great for all practical purposes, but what about non-practical purposes, like taking a turn at 100 or so. Just curious guys, thanks.
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we have several customers in the past who have raced our arms, and I assure you they are strong where they need to be.
The material used is also about twice as strong as aluminum.
Both front and rear will also allow more negative camber for better traction in turns.
The material used is also about twice as strong as aluminum.
Both front and rear will also allow more negative camber for better traction in turns.
Great, thanks.
Now I just gotta rake up $1500 for the manifold and the suspension parts...I had the mullah for the manifold ready, but I didn't expect the suspension parts to be on sale too, you guys are too much.
Now I just gotta rake up $1500 for the manifold and the suspension parts...I had the mullah for the manifold ready, but I didn't expect the suspension parts to be on sale too, you guys are too much.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by lsdunique
you still have to remove the wheel, then remove the ball joint nut and rotate the ball joint.
Thanks for the compliments
Thanks for the compliments
Set up alignment heads on wheels, take readings, take alignment heads off, lift car up, take wheels off, adjust camber, put wheels back on, setup alignment heads again and repeat process again ......?
Ouch ....
Last edited by toledo; Apr 27, 2005 at 11:47 AM.
Originally Posted by Turbogt
I should be ordering the suspension setup soon. Question is there a limit on it or however many people??
Thanks nice looking products.
Thanks nice looking products.
Originally Posted by toledo
So what is the best way to do a front-end alignment?
Set up alignment heads on wheels, take readings, take alignment heads off, lift car up, take wheels off, adjust camber, put wheels back on, setup alignment heads again and repeat process again ......?
Ouch ....
Set up alignment heads on wheels, take readings, take alignment heads off, lift car up, take wheels off, adjust camber, put wheels back on, setup alignment heads again and repeat process again ......?
Ouch ....
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unless I am mistaken , all the arms out there require you remove the wheel to do camber adjustments, I just dont see many ways around it. That could possibly be why Nissan did not offer camber adjustment in stock form. In the rear you can access the lower arms for camber adjustment. You cannot achieve camber adjustability with the front lower arms.
As far as rubbing inner fender wells, this is what limits the amount of positive camber adjustment. The 350z will have the same problem if you keep cambering the wheel out. Our arms still offer the most amount of camber before they hit the fender well.
There is also a plastic liner on the inside fender well which can be trimmed to give a little more clearance.
We think we have the best solution for positive camber, because we simply have the most clearance aroudn the ball joint.
As far as rubbing inner fender wells, this is what limits the amount of positive camber adjustment. The 350z will have the same problem if you keep cambering the wheel out. Our arms still offer the most amount of camber before they hit the fender well.
There is also a plastic liner on the inside fender well which can be trimmed to give a little more clearance.
We think we have the best solution for positive camber, because we simply have the most clearance aroudn the ball joint.
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Well, I believe the SBC kit in the rear has you grinding out some of the factory holes.
Also they use a hard heim joint bearing for the rear arms, which can possibly cause chatter and harsher ride. We use energy suspension polyurethane bushings.
Also ours are a bit beefier in construction, but to be honest I doubt either will have problems with strength.
Lastly, you can deal with manufacturer direct with us, and you get a lifetime warranty.
Also they use a hard heim joint bearing for the rear arms, which can possibly cause chatter and harsher ride. We use energy suspension polyurethane bushings.
Also ours are a bit beefier in construction, but to be honest I doubt either will have problems with strength.
Lastly, you can deal with manufacturer direct with us, and you get a lifetime warranty.



