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My alignment results after lowering

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Old 09-12-2005, 08:50 AM
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rocketdog
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Default My alignment results after lowering

I lowered my car approx 1". I spent $400 for Cusco front A-arms, $400 for rear traction rods and $400 for rear Camber adjustment rods. My alignment tech said the Cusco front arms gave me no more adjustment than my stock arms as far as returning to stock specs, so that was $400 wasted. The rear traction rods were not necessary so that was another $400 wasted. The closest the front would come in is -1 degrees camber front left and right. The closest the rear would come in when setting the toe perfect to spec was
-1.9 degrees camber rear left and -1.3 camber right rear. If I had to do it over again I would have only bought the rear camber arms for $400.
Old 09-12-2005, 08:52 AM
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MIAPLAYA
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Originally Posted by rocketdog
I lowered my car approx 1". I spent $400 for Cusco front A-arms, $400 for rear traction rods and $400 for rear Camber adjustment rods. My alignment tech said the Cusco front arms gave me no more adjustment than my stock arms as far as returning to stock specs, so that was $400 wasted. The rear traction rods were not necessary so that was another $400 wasted. The closest the front would come in is -1 degrees camber front left and right. The closest the rear would come in when setting the toe perfect to spec was
-1.9 degrees camber rear left and -1.3 camber right rear. If I had to do it over again I would have only bought the rear camber arms for $400.
No offense but a little more research could have saved you some cash. I spent $400 on the Cusco A arms and $220 on the SPC Camber Arms and toe bolts. My alignment after lowering 1.5" was -1.5 -1.3 front (both in spec)
-1.5 both sides in the rear with tow set to 0 in the back and toe to -.1 up front all in spec...
Old 09-12-2005, 09:12 AM
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rocketdog
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I knew the traction rods were not needed, but am surprised the front A-arms didn't allow for more postive camber adjustment. That's my main point.
Old 09-12-2005, 09:26 AM
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Alberto
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Originally Posted by rocketdog
I knew the traction rods were not needed, but am surprised the front A-arms didn't allow for more postive camber adjustment. That's my main point.
That sucks man. Thanks for the heads up though.....
Old 09-12-2005, 09:27 AM
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Wired 24/7
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Just flip the tires over and swap R for L, just as often as you would rotate your tires on any another car.

Sorry to hear that you wasted some cash, who did you consult before buying these suspension mods?
Old 09-12-2005, 09:36 AM
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rocketdog
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
Just flip the tires over and swap R for L, just as often as you would rotate your tires on any another car.

Sorry to hear that you wasted some cash, who did you consult before buying these suspension mods?
I knew the rear traction rods were not necessary, but ASSUMED the Cusco front A-arms would allow for plenty of postive adjustment. -1 degee camber in front is good obviously for handling so I guess that's OK. I heard some guys are doing the left to right swap on tires to get more miles. That won't work on my tires (BFG-KDW-2 are directional). What is a GOOD quality tire that is non-directional.
Old 09-12-2005, 11:29 AM
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Wired 24/7
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Originally Posted by rocketdog
I knew the rear traction rods were not necessary, but ASSUMED the Cusco front A-arms would allow for plenty of postive adjustment. -1 degee camber in front is good obviously for handling so I guess that's OK. I heard some guys are doing the left to right swap on tires to get more miles. That won't work on my tires (BFG-KDW-2 are directional). What is a GOOD quality tire that is non-directional.
I hope what I am about to say strikes you as good news ...

you *CAN* swap R for L on the BFG KDW "2" or KDW "NT" or "new tread."

(the ones that look like this: )

First, you take the wheels off. Flip the tires on each wheel.

At this point, if you mount the wheels on their original sides, the treads will be going "backwards." But if you switch the right wheel for left, they will be going the correct direction.

The only time you can't flip the tires is if they are asymmetrical, that is to say they have an "inner" and "outer" part of the tread.

There is a thread about this from Jason@performance somewhere.
Old 09-12-2005, 11:36 AM
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rocketdog
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Those are my tires. Yes cool thanks that is good news. Now all I have to do is find a place I can trust to R&R tires from my $2,700 rims.
Old 09-12-2005, 01:06 PM
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