Ya know I just realized that what your seeing are the direction's printed for the pervious Buddy club setup. That setup used a spring in the oem rear location because it came in the box with them, it's not depicting oem springs. The new setup up's the spring rate on the rear oem dampner and does away with any spring in the rear oem location. IMO, to also run the oem rear spring would turn your car into a "surrender monkey". It will rise it's arms to the sky and surrender itself to the oversteer gods in a cload of white smoke, not fun.

 

Sorry, I have g35c. Last night, it wasn't difficult taking out nuts and bolts from the front oem strut, but I couldn't lower the front arm enough to let the oem strut out. I'll try again asap. Thanks.

 

That's ok, what I said applies equally to all FM RWD platform variant's, Z33, CVP35 and V35.



Did you pull the cotter pin out of the upper arm, unbolt it and pull the sway bar end link out of the lower suspension arm? That should give you enough downward movement to remove the oem shock/spring (though the assembly your removing is slightly taller then the same thing coming out of a Z).

 

I haven't tried taking out the cotter pin from the upper arm, only the sway bar endlink. Hopefully it's all I needed to do. Thanks

 

3 hours later; I completely install the front coilovers, turns out the height is too low. Taking out the cotter pins and the nut from the front upper arms really helps the front lower arms to open up. I think I need to unbolt the front lower arms again just to re-adjust the bottom tubes.
Does the rear sway bar end links need to be unbolt to help the rear lower arms to be lowered enough for the oem shock/springs to fall out? Thanks

 

You do not need to touch the rear sway bar end links. But you do need to loosen the toe adjusting nut about 3-4 turn's, only then will the suspension arm holding the spring in place lower down enough for spring removal. Hint: before you loosen the toe bolt note that is has a thick washer with a dot stamped into it. Use a sharpy pen and mark the location of this dot, when when you putting the rear back together, make certain that the dot on the washer lines up to your sharpy dot. This will keep your toe somewhat respectable til you can go to your favorite alignment shop.

 

After balancing both sides of the car's height, right rear spring is more higher than the left rear spring.

 

I'm done installing; half inch fender to tire gap on the rear and 3/8 inch in the front; currently have the damper settings 9 clicks from tight and 8 clicks on rear, too tired to open it again to make it 9 clicks from tight. front is smooth on cornerings and rear is a lil bouncy.

 

Any updates ? Would be interesting to hear your impressions on the handling.

 

Here is pic of my G before I raised half inch all around, how close can cusco a-arms get to specs? Thanks

Yeah, ride smooth at 7 clicks from tight front/9 clicks from tight rear, ONLY in full gas tank. More rear bounce when ever I get down to half tank.

 

so...anyone who has these. is there much noise from them? please reply with how many miles you have on them as well.
thanks

 

IMO, pick up the phone on monday, call Option's and order the softer rear spring option. You will see better rear shock performance will less bounce if not eliminate it. Also you go from stiffer then oem in the rear by +113%
to +64% Your front rate went up by 78% to but things in prospective.

 

so would you have to take the rear shock out to adjust it? or can you get at it from the top of the strut brace?

will what konspec said work on these?
thanks

 

Thanks.
1. Is this why the rear is bouncing all over the place whenever I lunched at 3k rpm?
2. Isn't stiffer spring rates is good for track?
3. Will tightening the dampers help?
4. Will lower psi eliminate the bounce at 3k rpms?
...Well, atleast I got 14.9

 

^ dude, i need to ride in your car because it can't be as bouncy as you describe. call me up. i'd like to give your car a drive.

 

lol, your in this forum too. cool.

 

I've opened my rear dashboard that covers rear factory brace, there is a about a 5mm hole looking directly at the rear damper adjusting **** (about an inch away). I would like to do the same, will it weaken the factory brace? What kind of drilling tools where used? Thanks

 

we're talking about a hole big enough for the wrench to fit through, that's it. I'm sure there are measurements small enough to calculate the effects this hole will have on your car but, this would be the same measurements that are used for micro chemistry. Just tap a little dimple where you want to drill, get a good metal bit and go to town.

 

I read this thread from begining to end and have yet to hear a complete review on this system regarding their performace on the track. Has anyone attempted to swap out the rear springs in favor of the lower rate ones that Gsedan35 suggested? Has there be any noise issues that have come up and if so, how many miles have been put on them before it happened? Is the "wheel hop" as bad as stock? What other dampening setting are others using and why?
From what I uderstand this system is supposed to be really good concept in theory. I'd just really like to hear what others have to say about the Buddy Club coilovers now that I own the set.

Any and all information is welcome.

 

I agree with you .. there have been no reviews.

However, since you now have this setup -- how about starting and posting your impressions of the Buddy Club coilovers !