solarscar

Hello all. I have a couple questions regarding rear camber arms and toe bolts.

First, i just bought some rear camber arms and installed them the other day and have yet to make it to the alignment shop though the ride feels okay, but i'm not getting crazy on the cornering or anything :-)

The first question is regarding two different types of rear camber arms. These are the ones i bought....



There is a swivel type of bearing on them and was wondering what the advantage or disadvantage is over the ones alot of people say to get, which are these....



Okay, time for a dumb question. I know what camber / and caster \ is, but toe, is that how the wheel is turned, is it for example, when looking at the rear of the car the wheels will look turned in? and the toe bolt fixes this?

And last question. When i replaced the camber arm i noticed another arm that was going off at an angle and looked similar to the one i replaced. What is that part called and does it need to be changed out also to get the alignment right?

I only have my car dropped about .8 with 20 inch wheels and it threw my wheels into visible camber and this is why i am asking all these questions. Thanks!

cupcar

iTrader: (1)

The upper link has a metal to metal spherical bearing as is usually used in a true racing car. This does not have rubber to isolate the chassis from road shock which will result in more noise, vibration and harshness. Also the spherical bearing, being a non-lubricated joint requires occasional replacement in service and has to be monitored for this.

The lower arm has a rubber pivot point as in the stock arm. This will result in less precise wheel control since the rubber moves in service allowing the pivot to drift a bit in service. This is not what you want in a racing car, but in a street car the rubber provides isolation from noise, vibration and harshness. A compromise would be to install harder rubber in the joint, Nismo makes these for sale on the Japanese market and they are available here in the USA from Nissan Motorsport on special order.

Toe in is turning both wheels into a a virtual center on the horizon. It is like camber but viewed from the cars plan view rather than rear view.

solarscar

Thanks,

When you say "upper link" and "lower arm" are you talking about the same part?

cupcar

iTrader: (1)

I was not clear for sure.

By "upper link" I meant the upper picture.

By "lower arm" I meant the lower picture.

Checkmate58

iTrader: (11)

Just curious, where does that bolt go? Does it just replace the factory bolt at the end of the arm? I'm getting confused...

Some sites sell the bolt alone and say that it corrects up to +/- 3 degrees. Then some sites sell the bolt+arm and says it corrects up to 4 degrees of camber. What the hell?

Would you guys recommend just the bolt if I have less then 3 degrees of camber or should I get the entire kit (arm+bolt)?

--Sam

cupcar

iTrader: (1)

I have not done any of this on my car so my thoughts are out of thin air.

I think the eccentric bolts are for those who want to keep the stock links but want more negative camber adjustment than stock.

It seems redundant to have the turnbuckle adjustable link and the eccentric bolt; if it were my car and I were installing the turnbuckle links, I would actually want to eliminate the eccentric completely with a normal bolt since it seems to me that the eccentric design is more likely to allow the adjustment to shift in service.

Just my $.02

rocketdog

The eccentric Toe bolts allow you to bring the Toe back into proper adjustment. I still need to buy the Toe bolts myself. My right rear is -1.3 camber and the left rear is
-1.9. I need to get the Toe bolts and "hog out" the holes so I can adjust the right rear to -1.9 camber using the adjustable camber arms and bring the Toe in to proper specs (-.06 I believe) using the modified holes/SPC Toe bolts.

Mr_Drifter

iTrader: (4)

What do you mean by "hog out" the holes? you mean just having the aftermarket toe bolts isn't enough?

rocketdog

You have to "hog out" the existing Toe holes a little for the new larger SPC Toe bolts. The instructions give you a template I have heard. I guess SPC will sell you the tool for grinding out the hole if you wish. Once the mod is done and the SPC Toe bolts are installed, I guess it's good to go (forever) with more than enough Toe adjustment.

cupcar

iTrader: (1)

I see the eccentric is for Toe adjustment only, not camber.

The turnbuckle arm does the camber.

When you increase the camber adjustment the toe in eccentric has to be modified to match.

Correct?

rocketdog

You got it

rocketdog

I just got off the phone with Import Auto Performance Direct. I ordered only the SPC rear Toe bolts for 50 bucks delivered. I already have JIC rear camber adjustment rods. Finally I'll be able to align my car perfectly. By the way, SPC is working on front upper A-arms I hear.

cupcar

iTrader: (1)

It is interesting to me that apparently there are two approaches to the problem of camber and toe adjustment on the rear of the Z.

Stillen changes the bottom camber link and forward radius rod with adjustable parts and leaves the eccentric bolt alone. Toe is apparently adjusted by changing the radius rod adjustment but I don't like this because this would change the caster and rear bump steer characteristic I think.

I like the SPC kit with the adjustable camber link and special toe eccentric better.

Anyone else have thoughts on this?

rocketdog

The radius rod or traction rod will not properly adjust toe. The oblonged toe holes/SPC toe bolts is one method that will properly allow adjustment. Another is by removing the lower spring perches, relocating the springs and replacing the spring perches with adjustable rods.

cupcar

iTrader: (1)

Thanks that makes sense to me.

I wonder if there is enough adjustment available with the stock eccentric to allow the toe to be corrected if one does not dramatically change the camber with the adjustable control arms.


I also wonder what bushing SPC uses in their adjustable control arm and if it can be replaced with a Nismo bushing.

rocketdog

Stock, there's no camber adjustment in the front and VERY LITTLE in the rear. Every car is is a little different, but any more than .7 lowering in the rear, I would go ahead and install the SPC toe bolts. I only lowered appox .7 to .8 and I need the SPC toe bolts to allow bringing the toe back to spec. The SPC adjustment arm bushings look very simular to the JIC, I have the JIC. They use metal bushings surrounded by hard rubber. Both are MORE than sufficient in quality and will not squeek like the urathane busing in the adjustable arms from Kinetix. I think the SPC arms are cheeper than the JIC also. And, SPCi s working on front upper A-arms that should be better quality than the Cusco.

3five0_GT

This is what you need.

http://members.***.net/turbonetics35...oltinstall.pdf