cbrflyer919

iTrader: (13)

I'll sell you my set if you'd like. I only have about 4k miles on them when I switched, and they were installed with new rotors at the time, so even wear. $25 plus a few bucks to put em in the mail and theyre yours.

Wired 24/7

iTrader: (2)

I decided to go with the performance nissan stage 1 brake kit, with axxis ultimate pads, SS lines, DOT4 fluid, and I'll be getting new oem rotors. I want to fix this and I want to fix it RIGHT the second time, because it's too late for the first time.

sdoow

iTrader: (2)

We have had excellent braking experience with Hawk HPS and even HP+ (more aggressive than HPS) with our (RacingBrake) rotors , just like thousands of other satisfied customers. I personally have experienced in my daily first stop right out of my garage under 20 deg F in the morning in New Jersey. Never an issue under extreme cold weather in east coast.

I would also like to point out that along with brake pads, you should also state what rotors (stock or the brand) you are using. The rotor material (hardness, graphite structures, finish etc.) does affect the pad performance greatly, that's why RB 's rotor quality can be better appreciated under adverse braking condition of extreme cold and heat.

Strife350z

iTrader: (4)

Precisely! Understanding that you'd be interested in selling new rotors you make an excellent point nonetheless

For folks experiencing poor performance with your hawks, is it because you're changing them after driving 30k+ miles on your stock rotors? Obviously the quality of your rotors have deteriorated with use, and switching to a hard compound pad on a worn rotor is going to reduce performance. I wouldn't be surprised if everyone who's satisfied with their hawks either changed their rotors with their pads, or changed the pads with less than 5k miles (like I did).

Comparing hawks + worn rotors to stock + new rotors is not apples to apples.

cbrflyer919

iTrader: (13)

Not the case for me. I despise the hawks and I put them on at the same time with my NEW Stillen cross drilled / slotted rotors.

jamnew

[QUOTE=cbrflyer919]I as well bought the HPS pads after reading countless threads about they were a great all around pad as far as noise, stopping distance, light trackability, and dust.....WELL these pads ended up costing me my front end a few months ago. I was aware that they needed to be warmed up a little for OPTIMAL braking performance, but what they dont tell you is, if they are cold then good luck. I was leaving work one day and was in a hurry and completely forgot to warm them up a bit. I was in typical DC traffic, floor it, slam on the brakes, floor it, slam on the brakes. Well All I got to do was my first floor it. I slammed on the brakes and I might as well have opened the door and put my foot out. SLAMMED into the lexus in front of me. New bumper cover, crash pad, and aluminum beam. My headlight is cocked up a little now as well. I would never buy these pads again. The no dust thing is amazing, they dont make much if any noise and ONCE heated up they are I would say equal to stock.

Thank you my brother. I too drive in DC traffic and was about switch out the OEM for Hawks to cure the brake dust, but after your post I'll just keep on washing my wheels. Traffic is so crazy in DC initial stop is most important.

cbrflyer919

iTrader: (13)

[QUOTE=jamnew]
No problem man. I am putting on the Project MU B-force pads in the next few days. They are supposed to be all that the hawks claimed to be but better, just cold performance in trade for less trackability. Noise, dust and initial bite are supposed to be great. I now know that you just cant have a street and track pad in one. If you track the car, you just have to suck it up and spend the hour changing the pads before your event.

DOHC

I agree completely. I didn't notice a lower initial bite, AFTER I did the proper brake-in that is. IMO the reason that many folks don't like the Hawk HPS pads is because they do not follow the directions when installing them. It is essential to sand the old pad material off the rotors before the install, and you must perform the hot break-in to deposit the pad material back onto the rotor. It is the friction between the pad material on the pad and on the rotor which stops the car.

Houston rain is pretty awesome, and I've noticed no degradation of braking with the HPS pads. And they stop fine the first time on a 40 degee day too....

sands

iTrader: (3)

Any tricks in sanding the backside of the rotors with the dust covers in place? Do you remove the rotors?