mrtomcat

iTrader: (3)

I want to start out that I know basically nothing about suspensions and even after reading all the stickies am not clear on what I need to get.

I am running on stock supsension at this point.
I have the APS TT at 445 whp (about to go to around 500) and run quite freaquently at the Drag Strip. I am actually competing at IDRC Events in the True Street Classes.
I want a setup that gives me better traction at the track and of course will not hurt my daily driver.
I recently lost traction at the track at 100mph and hit the wall with my rear before being able to get the car back under control (only minor damage, thank God).
I am an experienced driver both street and drag strip. I am running on ET Streets in the rear with upgraded axles...

Now I was told by getting a Camber kit and lowering it to 0 I will get better grip but will take a chance of the car breaking out easier on sharp turns and so I should set it to -.6 ? somthing like that...

Now I am also looking at a Coilover Kit like the Tein that should allow for better control and adjustability for street and track driving....

Here are my questions:
1) Do I need both a Camber kit and a Coilover kit or does either one take care of my problem and which one would be better?

2) If I get a Camber kit do I need both Rear and Front or just rear?

3) If I get a camber kit what would be the best setting to get better grip on the straight line without loosing too much control in curves since I was told I need an alignmet everytime that setting is changed.

4) If I get only a coilover kit what would be the best setting for a drag strip vs street?

5) am I completely off here and if so what is the best solution?

Obviously I am not made out of money and have to make choices based on my budget but I am also willing to spend some money if it gives me a safer setup since I did not enjoy my little ride....

Help is appreciated

xephiron

I am no expert either, but I just lowered my Z with springs and installed new front camber arms and rear camber/toe arms. Then I had Nissan do an alignment the next day to get me in ballpark range atleast. The rear tires were almos -2 camber with my wider wheels/tires from before, and I had them bring out my camber a bit to flatten those rear tires (launching traction). I too did not want to lose handling. Basically... they have my rears at about -1.2 which is still within the "green" for acceptable to their alignment machine, but also sits much flatter on the ground. I don't think I will lose handling at this setting with 275 width rear tires. I can already tell a difference with traction (improved). Just an FYI...

P.S. you can technically go to -1.08 and still be within acceptable range for Nissan. Any more positive camber and you will have to go to a non-Nissan dealership for a custom alignment. And the stock rear camber adjustment is only a very small cam washer... it doesn't move much at all which is why ONLY wider wheels/tires had me out to almost -2 rear camber. The front camber is not even adjustable from what I could tell in stock form. Plus, the rear camber and toe arms are both connected to the same mount kinda like a triangle to the car. When you move one, the other changes as well. People adjusting their rear camber (aftermarket) and not correcting the toe are gonna have problems.

konspec

iTrader: (4)

I'd go with the tein basic kit. It not the most brutal on the street and will give you a little more travel for the strip. I've always purchace coilovers because of the adjustability, I like how I"m never stuck at a certain ride height. Since you seem to be into the strip this might be the best option, you can play around with ride height for better weight transfer but they still don't beat you up on the street. I personally have JICs and street comfort is non existent but, thats wasn't my motive. You should def purchace rear camber and toe kit (SPC) and unless you drop your front end more than 1in you'll be fine. Mines just at 1in and camber is 1.6,,,,1.5 my tires have been wearing fine. this setup should be around 1g if you shop right. ....having your rear camber at -.6 will make your car feel very sluggish and unsensitive. From drag u obviously don't want undue friction slowwing you down from tons of neg camber but unless u just don't like a spirited run on some back roads, I'd set the rear camber in the 1.5- 1.2 range. Otherwise you'd have to buy the 350evo front arms because there prolly the only front camber adj that would get you front to match the small amount of camber in the rear, it's that or get @ss happy. I've had my suspension aligned some many different ways and times, that I could tell you how it feels from pretty much any adj.

mrtomcat

iTrader: (3)

so you say as long as I drop the front more than 1 in I won't need to get new front cambers just the rear?
I have no plans on dropping the car lower, my main reason for a different suspension is to get a stiffer feel not to lower the car.


I just checked on prices how come the Stillern Camber kit is so dramatically more expensive than the SPC?
SPC $160 x 2 for the rear
Stillen $900

konspec

iTrader: (4)

yeah I use the SPCs (along with many other forum members) they came with camber arms and toe bolts instead of what stillen,jic, and others call ''traction bars''. I have a friend with the JICs and he can't get the rear alignment right, wereas the SPC pkg was flawless. (we took our cars to the same shop) Someone can correct me if i'm wrong but the camber and tractions bar sets won't give you a better launch.

mrtomcat

iTrader: (3)

thanks...

from what I was told lowering the camber setting to 0 would give you the most tire on the ground and hence a much better launch, but you'll loose cornering capabilities....so it should be set to no more than -1.2