Slotted vs Drilled
06-19-2006, 09:17 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Studio City, CA
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Slotted vs Drilled
I'm getting into the final stage of buying a Stop Tech Big Brake kit and would like to know what the difference between drilled and slotted rotors are (not visually but functionaly)
also why in the world does it cost $200 extra to get a blue kit?
also why in the world does it cost $200 extra to get a blue kit?
06-19-2006, 11:19 PM
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
I'm getting into the final stage of buying a Stop Tech Big Brake kit and would like to know what the difference between drilled and slotted rotors are (not visually but functionaly)
also why in the world does it cost $200 extra to get a blue kit?
also why in the world does it cost $200 extra to get a blue kit?
Explains the difference between the two pretty well.
06-20-2006, 12:41 AM
#4
Sponsor
Performance Nissan
Performance Nissan
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: So-Cal - Ready to go?
Posts: 8,783
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
If you are planning on tracking your car, definatly go with slotted...
If you are mainly going to drive on the street, not soo hard aggressive driving with high performance pads, then drilled wont hurt...
I personally go slotted no matter what...
The optional colors like Blue, Yellow and Gold are extra since they are not standard... I think there is a cost difference in the materials for the paint / process etc... but dont know for sure...
PM me and I can work something out for you on a kit!
http://mynismo.com/products/?id=4206
If you are mainly going to drive on the street, not soo hard aggressive driving with high performance pads, then drilled wont hurt...
I personally go slotted no matter what...
The optional colors like Blue, Yellow and Gold are extra since they are not standard... I think there is a cost difference in the materials for the paint / process etc... but dont know for sure...
PM me and I can work something out for you on a kit!
http://mynismo.com/products/?id=4206
06-20-2006, 04:44 AM
#7
Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.
While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable.
Reference: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=87
While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable.
Reference: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=87
Trending Topics
06-20-2006, 08:47 AM
#8
Registered User
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: The OC boyeee!!
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It depends if you're going to be heading to the track a lot or sticking to the streets. Drilled rotors grab well even when the rotors are still cold. Slots just help clear the gas build up from heavy use (on the track). Professional track teams actually use cross-drilled slotted rotors for during qualifing races since the rotors dont need to be warmed up so much to attain the grab that they want. Of course once they start a race, they switch to slotted only.
For drilled rotors to crack, you would have to make the temp go up and down drastically, like on a track, for them to crack. In street use, it is unlikely that you would get the rotors to do that.
My .02
For drilled rotors to crack, you would have to make the temp go up and down drastically, like on a track, for them to crack. In street use, it is unlikely that you would get the rotors to do that.
My .02
06-20-2006, 04:49 PM
#10
Originally Posted by plastiketa
It depends if you're going to be heading to the track a lot or sticking to the streets. Drilled rotors grab well even when the rotors are still cold. Slots just help clear the gas build up from heavy use (on the track). Professional track teams actually use cross-drilled slotted rotors for during qualifing races since the rotors dont need to be warmed up so much to attain the grab that they want. Of course once they start a race, they switch to slotted only.
For drilled rotors to crack, you would have to make the temp go up and down drastically, like on a track, for them to crack. In street use, it is unlikely that you would get the rotors to do that.
My .02
For drilled rotors to crack, you would have to make the temp go up and down drastically, like on a track, for them to crack. In street use, it is unlikely that you would get the rotors to do that.
My .02
I need only one brake zone to get the brakes hot. It's the tires that takes the longest to warmup.
06-20-2006, 05:50 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Studio City, CA
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I drag race a lot at the tracks and since I'm at 475 whp right now and soon should arrive at about 600 I need some decent stopping power.
Jason: I'll pm you later on I was there yesterday but forgot to talk to you guys about it. I also need to find out if these will even fit with my wheels
Jason: I'll pm you later on I was there yesterday but forgot to talk to you guys about it. I also need to find out if these will even fit with my wheels
06-20-2006, 06:40 PM
#13
not to hurt anyone sale, but if you are just drag racing, just like i like, then you really dont need to worry too much about your brakes. the stock brakes will do fine,
big brakes and brake kits will help you when you are using them a lot on a road course but you are just going straight, possibly 130 mph and have over a quarter mile of room to stop.
i would worry more about building your motor more or getting that power to the ground... just my opinion
big brakes and brake kits will help you when you are using them a lot on a road course but you are just going straight, possibly 130 mph and have over a quarter mile of room to stop.
i would worry more about building your motor more or getting that power to the ground... just my opinion
06-20-2006, 07:12 PM
#14
Sponsor
Performance Nissan
Performance Nissan
iTrader: (92)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pasadena/Bay Area
Posts: 6,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
I drag race a lot at the tracks and since I'm at 475 whp right now and soon should arrive at about 600 I need some decent stopping power.
Jason: I'll pm you later on I was there yesterday but forgot to talk to you guys about it. I also need to find out if these will even fit with my wheels
Jason: I'll pm you later on I was there yesterday but forgot to talk to you guys about it. I also need to find out if these will even fit with my wheels
06-20-2006, 10:32 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Studio City, CA
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yep, it's a safety issue for me especially when you are on a track that has a shorter roll out like Irwindale, I need breaks that can slow me down a bit faster.
At the same time I'm only doing the front kit because nothing else will fit on the 15 welds...I'm open to suggestions there.
I have 17" Motegi Togue's in the front
At the same time I'm only doing the front kit because nothing else will fit on the 15 welds...I'm open to suggestions there.
I have 17" Motegi Togue's in the front
06-20-2006, 11:16 PM
#17
Sponsor
Performance Nissan
Performance Nissan
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: So-Cal - Ready to go?
Posts: 8,783
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Im not 100% familar with that whee... but will probably clear a 13" kit... Ill have to see it....
If you wanted to do some thin wheels in the front, you can with a 25mm adapter or larger... Ive seen that done before with no issues...
If you wanted to do some thin wheels in the front, you can with a 25mm adapter or larger... Ive seen that done before with no issues...
06-20-2006, 11:24 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Studio City, CA
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I loooove my wheels, I'll have to find something that fits.
I'll check it out over the weekend. Do you have these readily in stock?
Probably want to go with the black one to stay with my car's theme, even though the red would not look bad. I really wanted the blue but it's not worth the extra 200
I'll check it out over the weekend. Do you have these readily in stock?
Probably want to go with the black one to stay with my car's theme, even though the red would not look bad. I really wanted the blue but it's not worth the extra 200
06-21-2006, 02:45 AM
#19
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
yep, it's a safety issue for me especially when you are on a track that has a shorter roll out like Irwindale, I need breaks that can slow me down a bit faster.
At the same time I'm only doing the front kit because nothing else will fit on the 15 welds...I'm open to suggestions there.
I have 17" Motegi Togue's in the front
At the same time I'm only doing the front kit because nothing else will fit on the 15 welds...I'm open to suggestions there.
I have 17" Motegi Togue's in the front
It will require less pedal pressure and thus, feel it brakes harder, but it won't. Your tires will slow you down.
Get a BBK if you want by all means. But don't believe it will lower your braking distance.
06-21-2006, 03:43 AM
#20
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the reason why someone should upgrade to a big brake kit is the need for increased heat capacity on the track, where the stock setup can't handle the heat from the continuous braking cycles. The goal of the BBK not to reduce stoppind distances (which could actually end up being longer than stock ones).
if it's only for the drag, it's a complete waste of money. (actually, in theory it will hurt your performance, drag cars run the smallest brakes possible). A single stop from 120mph-20mph is not enough to worry about. Proper pads and tires is what stops you (faster/slower).
if it's for looks, it's another story
if it's only for the drag, it's a complete waste of money. (actually, in theory it will hurt your performance, drag cars run the smallest brakes possible). A single stop from 120mph-20mph is not enough to worry about. Proper pads and tires is what stops you (faster/slower).
if it's for looks, it's another story
Last edited by Nano; 06-21-2006 at 03:57 AM.