Thanks for the informative post. I'm considering this in the near future. However, the stock arm appears to be of much higher quality than the aftermarket piece. The AM piece looks like something I could weld up in my garage. Do you guys have any concerns running at high speeds with a part like that?

 

No concerns here. I've ran at 145mph or so at Texas Motor Speedway on the SPL arms (lately on hoosiers) for at least 5 or 6 HPDE weekends at various tracks in the area. The arms have performed flawlessly and I honestly wouldn't feel as comfortable with any other design currently on the market.

 

Sounds like a clunk and you can feel it when it hits.

 

Could the stock arms possibly hit if you're lowered? Or is that unlikely?! I have these systems but my arms are stock.

 

I don't think so since the stock arms are shaped identical to the indent of the car. At some point they will hit if the car is lowered but how low I can't answer.

 

thanks jak. youve been helpful to me.

 

Just installed Cusco front A-arms. Set them to full positive Camber. Had dealership align everything back into spec. A-arm does not hit the inner fender on my setup: lowered 1 inch with tein basics - 18X9 rims.

 

this is very common on a lot of hondas, the upper adjustment nut prevents the suspension from traveling completely because it hits, as pictured earlier. Usually under more extreme installs/conditions etc... what my old shop had to do was drill a hole or cut a notch out on some of the hondas for these types of arms to clear 100%, however the way the fenderwell is on the Z, i dunno if it's a good idea to do so....

with my cuscos, i cut the plastic fender liner to clear a little, but thats only because it would catch the a arm every now and then, and make a low pop as the plastic was touched by the arm, not a big deal at all...

 

I currently have the SPC kit installed on my G coupe and have the hitting issue. I'm dropped 1" and I took my car back where I got the kit installed and they said that indeed the top bolt was hitting the top inner fender wall.

When it hits, it's a loud bang and it felt throughtout the car. A number of us on G35Driver are having this issue along with an issue with the VDC sensor. SPC is revising the bracket and the lock down screw for the sensor. When installing the spacer the supplied lock down screw was very hard to tighten and when you tried to torque it down it would bend the flimsy bracket. This would not make the sensor work making the VDC and ABS useless.

From my research here it seems the Cusco arms are not having any issues with clearances? FYI, there have been a couple of Kinetix rear arm failures and 1 resulting in an accident and the other member his arm was bent. Another member who has the Kinetix front camber kit noticed the welds looking really bad. I believe he's decided to take them off and replace them with another kit.

Any issues with the 350evo arms? They are relatively expensive compared to the other kits? I thought I ask about the 350evo's here on this forum because on G35Driver there are not many using those arms.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Mark

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does anybody know what the best way to hit the "soft metal" part so to speak, that is referred to on jak's pic. Im dropped 1.2 with tein basics and spc arms. Mine hits pretty good over hard bumps. Do i need to heat it with a torch? Do i need to take the whole A-arm off to do it?

 

I'm dropped close to 2 with oem a-arms. Best way to avoid bottoming out there is to just slow down around bumps.

 

I have the same problem but most of the time, I can't slow down enough on the freeway bumps. I guess I'm gonna have to get different springs if I want to get rid of the thud sound.

 

Look at the picture the solution is so easy. SPL offers a street spec ball joint for exactly the problem your having. It actually is lower profile than stock. If you are on coilovers you could have the wrong length spring, maybe a little more bumpstop. Anyway its very good to see someone who hasn't overlowered their car.

 

On the SPC arms, I wonder if its safe to cut some of that red ball joint. It could lower the arm by as much as 1/2". I don't know if thats a good idea tho.

 

Just wanted to chime in here for a sec. Have you guys tried spacing the bumpstop a little so that it will engage a little earlier? Contact me if you would like to try them and I will see if I can get them for you.

Take care,

 

my car hits hard up front with my spc arms. i am lowered at the recommended height that tein gave for the basic damper. i am hitting the actual 2 arms that come out against the upper fram of the car. i am not gittin any where near where the ball joint is. Is this normal? I didnt hit at all at those points with the stock a-arms

 

how low is your drop? post pictures of your car and the front fenders if you can and tell us your wheel and tire sizes.

 

PM me your full name. I want to checkout your order and give you some recommendations.

Thanks.

 

here is where my A-arms are hitting on my frame and causeing some dints.

this is where my teins are adjusted to on the front. which is recommended height

this is the part of the A-arm that is hitting the frame. I don't know why of all places that it would be hitting here.


Can anyone please tell me why its hitting in this location?
Oh i didn't buy from IAP FYI...... sorry.....

 

how low is your drop? do you have any bump stops installed?