Thanks to Jeremy Barbour, I got my box of stock camber and toe rods ready to pick apart (not literally).

My question is this........ since a large portion of you are lowering your rides, how many would be interested in adjusting the rear camber back to spec?!

We all know JIC is not the most helpful individuals and the price seems pretty high for just "adjustment" rods. If there is an interest level I will go ahead and start manufacturing adjustable toe/camber arms ASAP!

Please post here if your interested.

Scott

 

I am interested!

 

Also what suspension setup do you have/or are you planing on running and when. Maybe we could start something like the following

1) Pedal Pusher, HKS Hypermax, 2 months

 

what will they be made of and what will the price be?

 

well the shop that installed the JIC arms for me bent the one bar and they snapped the other one off. they are replacing it with a new arm from nissan (i'm the one that shipped them to you) so once it gets here i can send it out again.

here's my suggestions over the JIC's since i've had them for a while. the eurethane bushings on them aren't worth it. they make a **** load of unnessecary noise. there should be rubber fittings instead like the stock parts to avoid that noise. they need to be made out of something very strong as they will flex when the weight is transferred.

if you can do the rubber bushings part or use the stock bushings i would take them in a heart beat over my JIC's. the popping and squeaking is really getting on my nerves.

 

Still debating on the material. My buddy (the weld and bushing expert) and I need to look over the parts. I "just" got them a few minutes ago.

Most likely high-strength steel, powdercoted black. Im pretty sure that is what the existing parts are. I could do aluminum but there really is no point since you dont see it and its not really freeing up more then ounces.

At this time, its easy to say the price will be AT LEAST $80-100 less then the JIC. Give me a day or so and I can get exact numbers. Chances are it would be even chepaer? LIke i said, I havent looked at what we need yet. Tommorrow we will contact bushing, and metal vendors along with the machine shop. Should have some quotes put together soon.

 

Ok, rubber it is. Would you like a stiffer durometer? I can go with the same stiffness of the rubber or more then stock.

ITS UP TO YOU GUYS!

2k3silver350z if the parts are identical on the other side of the vehicle I will not need them. Ill just mirror the one rod (with the bend) and make a duplicate of the other. Make sense?

 

Count me in as VERY interested! What I require is adjustability while installed. I do not want to have to remove the arm to adjust it's length. And, yes, quiet would be nice!

 

just to make this clear... you all know rear camber is "somewhat" adjustable with stock parts...

i lowered my car 1/2" and was able to correct camber back to within specs.

 

Skidazzle, I've admired your car on my350Z.com for a while now and am in the process of putting a Nismo kit on my Daytona Blue myself. I was wondering if you could share any of your paint experience with your kit. Which brand was used for example (I assume Speis Hecker?) and were there any special issues involved in getting a good match? If you don't know the brand, could you tell me the shop that did it so I could call them? I'd like to find out as soon as possible as my parts will be painted tomorrow or Wednesday....

Thanks!

Joe

 

Nope, you will not have to remove it to adjust more then likely.

Skidazzle almost everyone is lowering more then 1/2" so I think that will be an issue. Ive studied the suspension and can not figure how it is adjustable at ALL in the rear. Are you sure? Maybe I just wasnt looking good enough

 

wow... its the same as my last 4 cars... what are you looking for?

here is the text from the service manual for rear suspension (RSU 5-6):

CAMBER INSPECTION
Measure camber of both right and left wheels with a suitable
alignment gauge and adjust in accordance with the following
procedures.

Standard value
Camber : Refer to RSU-18, "SERVICE DATA"

REAR SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY
If outside the standard value, adjust with adjusting bolt in front lower link.
CAUTION:
After adjusting camber, be sure to check toe-in.

(there is more information on how to adjust toe in the rear also)

here is a pic of the bolt to adjust for rear camber...

 

Ok, so its an oblonged hole. Still that is very minimal adjustment for most drops. JIC wouldnt sell rods if our cars didnt need them

I should have looked at the service manual before responding. Sorry about that.

 

Any more intereset out there? If not, I may just make a set for myself for now.

 

The rear camber IS adjustable, not very much though. I lowered my car 20mm (instead of the 10mm suggested by Tein) and I could only go back to -1.9 max on the rear vs the -1.33 stock spec.

 

wow if you don't think -2 degrees of camber is bad (or close to it) then you are sadly mistaken. go and take a look at your rear tires. i guarantee you that they will be worn out before you know it. before i got the JIC arms for my car i had -1.8 on the rear and after 1400 miles my tires were all worn from the uneven contact patch. also the new arms would allow you to adjust the toe even more. as of right now my specs are more like -.8 degrees of camber on the rear. the car feels a lot better and a lot more neutral now than it did before. i've already had to off the line races with a few local Z's and they all wheel hop like mad off the line. i get perfect traction even while dumping the clutch from 4grand.

 

2k3 , couldnt have said it better myself

 

2k3, Igree!!!

 

I am interested in both front and back. Is that the goal? JIC is coming out with a front kit by May.

Jeff

 

The only front kit I could imagine would have to be replacement upper arms. Maybe im not understanding.