Hi guys!

I am having Russell brand lines installed on my 350z and installer's have run into difficulty. Could anyone post a link to video or photos of a line install on our car????

Also, I might have received defective pkg of lines...are the front lines supposed to be only 17" long in this kit?? Installer says that lines aren't long enough and stock ones are at least 24" long???

Sorry, but this girl has NO idea about any of this!!!!

Lastly, I only drive the car as a daily driver...NEVER autoX or even speed generally, so do I even need these lines or should I abandon the whole thing???

Thank you guys a tonne as always for any help!

 

I'm not sure how long aftermarket front brake lines are or the length of the OEM either. What I can tell you is that when I installed my BBK in the front, the aftermarket lines are alot shorter that the stock ones. Your installer will have to get creative when routing these lines. He should not be trying to mount the aftermarket lines on the same mounts the OEM lines were on. I can tell you that wont work. It's trial and error. Have him loosely tighten the aftermarket lines up then cut the wheel all the way, both directions. Have someone looking at the inside of the wheel well at the same time he's doing this. If the lines rub or run out of slack, he'll have to reroute them. Another thing he might have to do is use zip-ties to hold the new lines in place, where you want them, if there are no aftermarket brackets available.

Stainless steel brake lines will make your pedal have greater braking response, since they don't give like a traditional rubber brake line would. With this being said, it's not a waste to install these and you don't need to autoX or track the car to be able enhance your brake response. I'd say, go for it get the lines installed!

 

^Hi Valentino!

Thank you SO much for your reply! My car is in the shop since yesterday...and I spent 4hrs on phone with supplier of lines, Russell themselves, and installer yesterday, and STILL not done!!! I even had them call each other! Sheesh, think they could figure it out.

So I don't know what to do. But your advice helps, as the installer was just adamant that lines were way too short. He is saying the stock line is 24" but is "looped" several times along the way????

So you are saying tell him to just find a route that works without pulling the lines upon wheel turn, and that is the ticket??

Sorry, but can't believe a girl who knows NOTHING about mechanics is having to coach these guys through this! Grrr!

Any pics/videos out there? Also...there are no braces or washers in this pkg...is that right???

Thank you a million!!

 

The stock rubber lines come off of the frame of the car, then do an excessive loop, then attach to the strut assembly of the car(thing where the large spring is at). From there it makes another loop to a small bracket on the knuckle assemble(thing your rotor is attached to), then fastens to the caliper. So yes, there are some excessive loops. Your aftermarket lines will never be long enough to take the same path, if this is what the installer is trying to do. He'll have to find away to make your new line come from the frame, then loop around the knuckle assembly, and attach it to the caliper. There is a small hole on the knuckle assemble that is next to the OEM brake line bracket. He can remove the OEM braket with a 10mm socket and zip-tie the new line to this hole. I have done this on other people's aftermarket lines. It works really good and keeps the line from kinking or rubbing on the rotor.
yes

 

Valentino...you are a Godsend!!

Just called installer with that info and I think we might have found a solution!!!

I will keep you posted and pls try to keep an eye on this thread whenever you can through the morning...cuz I might need you again!!!

But I want to thank you whole-heartedly in advance for your help...thank you!

PS: Any tips for rear lines? Will he encounter same difficulty there??

 

that'll be $19.95

He shouldn't have any problems in the rear, because the wheels do not turn.

 

The real question is, any pics./videos of YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I'm flattered, but don't like posting pics of myself

 

 

Zhottie, so what was the outcome?

 

I don't know much about the russell lines...

but I can tell you the stoptech lines fit like a glove in the front, and they mount up directly to the existing studs that are on the front suspension components, so the lines turn very nicely with the front wheels.

If your installer keeps having problems, I say just return the lines and get the stoptechs.

Also, if the installer thinks he's done it correctly, BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE SHOP turn the steering wheel ALL the way left and ALL the way right and then go check out the brake lines and make sure nothing is bent or broken.

 

^Wired 24/7: Thank you for your help! I will try to do what you mentioned tommorrow. Do I look for just kinks/tears?

^^ Valentino: Well, after your information, the guys said they could do it!!

I've just brought the car home...but am really, really, afraid of it not having been done right. Do any of you guys have any idea what I should be looking for??

I think I notice that the brake pedal is stiffer (I changed to slotted+drilled rotors AND Hawk HPS pads on all four wheels too), but it is pouring rain right now so not sure about stopping power etc. Did bed-in as you guys recommended.

Parked car in garage to see if any fluid leaks (used ATE Superblue...YES! I listen to you guys!).

Also, I noticed that there are two shiny holes with threads in wheel well now where looks like there used to be screw/bolt for what I'm assuming was a bracket for stock brake line. Do I need to screw something into these to prevent the threads from rusting??

So any tips on what to do or look for from here and ANY of the above questions would be great!!

 

A quick visual inspection is all you need to do. In your driveway turn the wheel all the way to the left, then look inside the wheel well behind the wheel. What you're looking for, is to make sure the brake lines are not being stretched. You should be able to wiggle them with your finger. If they are tight like a guitar cord, then they are being stretched to far. Also make sure that they are clear of any moving parts and are not rubbing against anything. Rubbing against a metal part could cause them to sever after awhile, but I wouldn't be worried. The stainless steel brake lines are strong!

Normal... Check your brake fluid. Ensure that it's at proper level. If there's too much, just dab a paper towel in the reservoir and let it soak up some fluid.

LOL! you truely are a girl J/K The threads will be ok. The knuckle assembly is made of aluminum. It will not rust.

 

bump.

VO(wants to know how everything turned out)

 

Bump...So are you ever going to tell us how everything turned out? Inquiring minds want to know...

 

This is correct. Stock lines are mounted in 2 places and the new ones only use one mount.

 

Zhottie,

If you put up some pictures, I'm sure people will chime in.

I just don't understand why manufacturers don't put up instructions like these guys


Oh wait.. That's us!

 

I just installed the StopTech Stage 2 kit on my Z. This comes with slotted rotors, Axiss pads, stainless steel lines and brake fluid. StopTech did a great job explaining the install of the SS lines. And yes, do not follow the path of the stock lines when installing the SS lines in the front. The bracket directly above the rotor does come off. Use one of the 2 bolts just removed to bolt on the p-clip that comes with the StopTech SS lines (use uppermost hole). From there just route the line directly to the chassis bracket. As for the rear, route it just like the stock line was routed.