Beer Goggles

iTrader: (2)

I need to lower my car, but only the rear. The front is perfect, and I'll attribute that to the added weight of the turbo kit, and maybe that the front gap never seemed as big as the front.

I cannot lower the front because I will not clear the driveway, even if I needed to, but the rear is bothering me.

So I've had Hotchkis Springs sitting from before my TK and body kit, but now I have to lower the rear. The spring rates are softer, so I would be messing up the stagger of the springs (effectively reducing steering since it will technically stiffen the front)...but I have sways to put on so I could get that back.


So has anybody just lowered the rear?

howey

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/246148-diy-cutting-rear-springmount-aka-the-springmount-mod.html

Check this out

sry110

iTrader: (17)

Yup I was going to suggest the same thing. You can probably buy .500" or so with this free mod.

Beer Goggles

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, that's G35 mount right? our Zs are much lower stock than a G. It's a good idea, but I have the springs to drop it, and since I'd have to take the spring out to do that mod...it would be easier to just put the springs in.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

I haven't used G35 based parts for a long time, I am currently on those cut down upper spring seats and oem 350Z 04.5 rear springs. For your thought process, G vs Z oem ride heights does not factor in. Either you want a .8" rear drop on your current oem rear spring rate or you want .8" drop on Hotchkis rear springs. If you have a revised suspension, 427lbs vs 330lbs rear springs may net you the ability to roll into the throttle sooner coming out of the hole with the Hotchkis spring springs in place. If you don't have the revised suspension, 342lbs vs 330lbs rears simply won't matter.

As far as worrying about front to rear rate bias, don't. Not unless you intend to go out on your own path of discovery where you install and test several different rate combo's to find out for yourself how they differ and which is best for you. My own testing and many coilover manufactuers have discovered that a front biased setup works best (speaking for me and them) Truechoice/Unitech, Zeal, Ohlins, Cusco to name a few.

One thing is definately true, installing the Hotchkis rears would be easiest.

z-u-later

iTrader: (43)

Here's another link to lowering your rear (shaving 1/2" from your rear spring mounts):

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/187959-06-upper-rear-spring-seat-free-lowering-mod-3.html

I posted pics on the thread so you'll have an idea how much it leveled my Z.

Vlad

What Hotchkis springs you talking about? My rear is a mess - it's insane camber (which ruined my last summer tires) and too high, so I'm thinking about lowering, new springs, new tires and alignment after that.

Right now I'm suffering from lots of oversteer. My rear gets loose in turns easily.

Also what about shocks. It looks like every professional article suggest to never change springs alone, yet everybody seems to ignore it... I've read a lot on the subject and the more I read the more confused I am

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

if you had done some searching you would find that your cure is a camber kit for the rear, followed by a proper alignment. Not swapping one spring for another

What professional articles are you referring to? Those in magazines, who's revenue is driven by advertisers? The vast majority of magazine info, like the vast majority of info you see posted on the boards, is good for one thing - looking at pictures. I would not take any of it as "gospel".

On many cars, the stock struts can barely keep up with stock springs. On a Z and G this is absolutely not the case, as the stock struts can deal with quite a wide variety of aftermarket springs just fine

Vlad

I was refering to the things like books on suspension design, and carbibles site, the suspension section. Of course it's just general info, not car specific.

If I just lower 0.5 " (cut the rubber above the spring), do I really need a camber kit? Why can't it be aligned as it is?

THE TECH

iTrader: (154)

Just take out the rear springs. You don't really need them. My buddy in Japan said that they are just marketing hype. They have run without them for years without any problems.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

simple logic - if you are already killing your tires at current height per your post, and now you lower it more, any mis-alignment issues you are currently experiencing will only get worse

Again, some general car info is good...others such as "always swap shocks and springs together" is as useless as **** on a bull IMHO - that is the type info that is completely car dependant

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

+1 for teh nwe hottness

Vlad

But I never had an alignment before! May be I still have space to adjust with stock adjustment mechanism? like I'm on the max camber setting now and can adjust to smaller camber settings?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

the factory rear has almost 0 alignment room (maybe .25 inch) and no adjustment for toe-once you lower the car, an SPC kit is really your best bet