Ideal Camber Setting - Please help!
Hello All.
I've searched all the forums, but have not found a definitive answer!.
I have a stock 04 350z roadster with 350evo adustable camber arms already installed. The car has not been lowered and is on stock suspension. What is the best camber setting for the front end to provide as much tire life as possible. I have read everything from "0" to "-1" to "+1". Just use the car for daily driving/commuting.
My toe should be -.2 to -.4 I believe.
Definitive answers much appreciated!
I've searched all the forums, but have not found a definitive answer!.
I have a stock 04 350z roadster with 350evo adustable camber arms already installed. The car has not been lowered and is on stock suspension. What is the best camber setting for the front end to provide as much tire life as possible. I have read everything from "0" to "-1" to "+1". Just use the car for daily driving/commuting.
My toe should be -.2 to -.4 I believe.
Definitive answers much appreciated!
You never want to have positive camber - ever. OEM specifications recommend that you stay between 0 and -1.0 - however I would suggest that you'd want to be closer to -1.0 as it really helps the car handle better. Even at -1.0, the tires won't wear much faster on this inside. As for toe, you should have between 0 and 1/8th inch toe in on each side - you setting really depends on how you want the car to feel. I personally love the car at 0, but most drivers do better with the toe in in the front.
I have to ask, why did you invest all that money in those nice 350Evo arms if you aren't going to utilize them as intended? The OEM arms should be more than sufficient for tire life...
I have to ask, why did you invest all that money in those nice 350Evo arms if you aren't going to utilize them as intended? The OEM arms should be more than sufficient for tire life...
I agree John, the 350EVO A-ARMs are the best on the market, but really not needed unless you track the car.
And John, I like my toe out in front - of coarse this only applies to track. Also John, you probably aren't heating you tires up enough in front to get the full grip from them as toe is the main driver for heating up tires. Something new I learned is not to adjust tire pressure in the rain, but go for a more aggressive toe to allow the tire to heat up more in the rain.
And John, I like my toe out in front - of coarse this only applies to track. Also John, you probably aren't heating you tires up enough in front to get the full grip from them as toe is the main driver for heating up tires. Something new I learned is not to adjust tire pressure in the rain, but go for a more aggressive toe to allow the tire to heat up more in the rain.
Most performance tires are designed to function best at 0.5 degrees negative.
Unfortunatley the suspension cannot hold this amount as the body leans [ideal camber correction gain curve].
Static misalignment [specs] is a number derived by oem to correct for what happens at 55 mph going straight.
Most front camber wear is from the dramatic increase in negative camber [from CASTER] when the tires are turned.......worse in slow city turns vs highway or track.
Many are not familiasr with this measure camber going straight vs a turn on steering wheel sitting still it will be obvious.
Unfortunatley the suspension cannot hold this amount as the body leans [ideal camber correction gain curve].
Static misalignment [specs] is a number derived by oem to correct for what happens at 55 mph going straight.
Most front camber wear is from the dramatic increase in negative camber [from CASTER] when the tires are turned.......worse in slow city turns vs highway or track.
Many are not familiasr with this measure camber going straight vs a turn on steering wheel sitting still it will be obvious.
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Lt_Ballzacki
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Aug 6, 2021 06:19 AM





