Hey guys. Just wanted to share some "after" pics. Sometime last week or so, I put in my Eibach Pro-Kit springs. Today, I took the afternoon off and installed my Ichiba 20/25mm spacers.

For the rears, install was a breeze! Just mounted the plates over the hub, put a drop of blue Loc-Tite on each stud, torqued to 80ft/lbs. and mounted rims over the spacer. Cake.

The fronts were not as easy are the rears but not as hard as I thought. The only difficulty I had was when one of my brake pads slipped off of my caliper and it took me about 30 minutes trying to figure out how to put the pad back it...I've never worked on brakes, myself.

For the fronts, I just took the front rims off, took out two big-*** bolts that hold the brake caliper (torque was like 110ft/lbs to remove), removed the rotor, pounded the OEM studs off, put the new studs in and tightened them with an open bolt, and put everything back.

WOW! What a difference 20/25mm's make! The tires are now flush with the fenders and my rims even look bigger!

Let me know what you guys think?

The AUT eyelids come on next...in about two weeks.

 

Here's one more...

 

looks nice!!

 

man, that is the exact setup i want. i already have the pro kit, just need the ichiba spacers, how did you know which size u needed? and where did you get them from?

 

You could have saved yourself alot of time and frustration by just using bolt on spacers such as Project kics or Eibachs

 

Thanks man. I did a helluva lot of searching on here...looking at different offsets, spacer sizes, spring comments, etc. I saw an awesome DB roadster with the 20/25mm set up and looked really nice. So, PM'd Ichiba and ordered a set. I figured that if they didn't look good, I could always sell them and try again. I lucked out, I guess.

The fronts would've been much easier with 25mm on all four corners and would've look reallly aggressive. I did not want my front rims pertruding from the fender, so I went with 20mm. I also took a tape measure and measured from the side wall of my tires to the edge of the fender, where I wanted them to be flush. Actually, 26mm in the rear and 22mm in the front would've been perfect for my taste but are not a "standard" sizes. In San Jose, Ca. there is a shop that machines custom spacers but I've heard that they charge much more, too.


Maybe, so. I looked at the Project Kics...but they are not hubcentric. That is, they are only held on by the lugs. As you may know, the more "moving" or seperate parts inside the hub, the more crevaces for debris, water, and other road crap to wedge themselves into. Also, with a seperate ring and spacer, there may be a chance of noise, shifting, etc. Going with a non-hubcentric spacer would've meant that I would've had to buy the rings seperatley, install them on the spacers, etc.
Also Eibach costs about 1.5-2x as Ichiba, so for me it was worth a little bit of hassle with the front rotors. Besides, IF I should ever get rims I could keep the longer studs on and use what ever size spacer to help flush those out.

All-in-all, I'm really happy with the look of my car and am okay with the amount of money I spent on these "mods." I would do them again on any car I should own in the future and are now part of my "standard" mods, such as tint.

 

Project Kics sells hubcentric rings and Eibachs are already hubcentric. 20mm Eibachs can be had for $121 shipped, so did you pay $60 for the ichiba's? In the end its all done and you got what you wanted from the look. I just think bolt on spacers are a better alternative for stock wheels because of ease of installation and the ease of removal when you eventually upgrade to aftermarket wheels

 

$121, really? I was not meaning to "sound" argumentative. It's just where I was looking, sold Eibach spacers for over $200. I agree, about your point on bolt on spacers. I was really hoping Ichiba made a 20mm without having to remove the breakes, etc. In the end, the install was not that difficult but would've been much, much easier with a bolt on spacer.

 

I have the same set up as yours. 07 DB dropped on pro kits but I used 25mm spacers all around. My clear reflectors should be in soon. Now i gotta fix my negative camber all around. I was hoping I dont need a camber kit but it looks pretty bad.

 

nice, the car wraps up nicely. Just wondering tho,.. does the car look lower in person? hard to tell by pics..

 

From...I guess, about 40' the car looks "lowered." That is, from far away, where you can see the entire car's length. From up close, not really since there is still about a "finger's width" of gap between the tires and the wheel arch. I took really close up pics so you could see the tire wall and fenders. Al-in-all, the Pro-Kits don't give a "lowered" look--which is what I was going for...but if you put these pics side-by-side with the stock height pics...then it becomes obvious that it has been lowered--especially the back.

Do you have the roadster? If so, then I copied you!

 

I just got my car aligned after a few weeks of installing Eibach's Pro-Kit springs and rear camber arms. To my surprise, the front end of the Z does not have any adjustability AT ALL for camber, so my fronts are still out of spec. All in all, I have found out that the rear camber arms are not necessary to stay within specs when lowered with Eibach Pro-Kit springs alone. The front camber is out of spec and if I were to do this install/purchase again, I'd buy front camber arms vs. rear camber arms. Then again, for nearly $500 for front camber adjustment arms (Stillen $478) I may be able to live with being -0.1 & -0.2 out of spec...

For the front left, camber is -1.4, specified range is -1.3 to 0.2.
For the front right, camber is -1.5

For the rear left, camber is -1.6 from -1.8 which was still within specs, specified range -2.1 to 1.1.
For the rear right, camber is -1.5 from -1.9 which was still within specs.

The rear specified range for toe is 0.11 to 0.27, and was at 0.47 (out of spec) and was corrected to 0.15.

*Question: Is having zero toe necessarily better for overall performance, handling, and tire tread wear?

 

i know it is definitely better for tire wear but i'm not sure about performance and handling

 

i thought the pro-kit would drop more, maybe the springs will "settle" a little more after a couple days.

 

I've had them on, going on two weeks now. And yes. They did settle a bit from when I initially installed them. There is zero "finger" space on the front wheels now. That is, at first I could put my index finger between the top of the tire & wheel arch. Now, there is a small gap but not big enough to put a finger in. I'm wondering if the HR motor or the front end of a 2007 may be heavier than 2006 models? Does anyone know?

The rears went from two to one finger spaces. I know, this is not really standardized nor scientific but I use the tools I have.

Also, I just realized that I installed the rear camber kits WITH the springs. So it is impossible for me to know if the rears would've been out of camber specs without the rear camber arms. Possibly, the camber arms were preadjusted when I bought them and just needed some fine tuning via the alignment machine. I do know, however, that the fronts a a bit out of spec. I don't understand why Nissan did not allow the front wheels to be adjusted for camber...

 

I was bored today so I cleaned up my car and installed some OEM rear splash guards and AUT eyelids...let me know what youse guys think?

Didn't know where to post this, so I thought I'd keep in here...

 

Are you sure you got the correct spec range? The shop that aligned my Z has .04 to .12 as the stock spec range for the rear toe. My final rear toe/camber spec was exactly in the middle.

 

I'm not sure. All I can speculate is that the 2007 may have different specs than your 2005 or one of our mechanics made a mistake? Can anyone chime in with the absolute alignment specs?

 

eyelids good, splashguards bad!

 

ur car looks great man, i have the eibach pro kit as well and my front is lower than my rear, i have an 04.