Over the winter I have aquired a few goodies to install for this spring. I guess my question is am I forgetting anything at all? Also are there any other setups out there like mine and I you have any feedback about what you did for settings on everything? For the coils I am not sure how low I want to go yet but for the dampning I was going to go 18 all around then put the sways on soft in the front and medium on the rear.

Heres everything I have:

Apexi N1 coilovers
Eibach sway bars
SPC upper control arms and rear toe kits

Let me know what you all think!

SeeULater

 

If and this is a big if, the oem manufactuer of the Apexi N1's valved them the same as the Megan Racing coilovers that are made by the same oem company. I would set the dampning in the high side, if you place a high value on controlling seconday ride motion's that is. I would start with at least 10 clicks off of full stiff.

On the sway bar settings, I do not recomment starting off with a higher rear bar setting then the front, IMO run med/med drive it for awhile and see from that point how the car's at the limit behavior is, then fine tune the bars from their.

 

Sorry all about the post in the wrong Forum I wasn't thinking (obviously). GSedan35 so are you saying that these apexi coilsovers are a lot like the megan ones? Well I agree with you on the sway bars but the only reason I though to go a bit higher in the rear is because right now with nothing on it, it can get a little lose. But then again I am sure that this could change after all of this goes on.

I noticed in your Sig you have some front links (are you talking sway bar links)? I was looking into those to but I really can't find any. I was reading a huge thread on them awhile back but what ever came to be of all of that. I was thinking that they might be a good investment but more info on them would be great!

SeeULater

 

They come from the same oem manufactuer, BcRacing and use the same basic parts including spring rates. Apexi could have asked for different valving, this was pointed out to me in a conversation that I had with Pete (really nice guy) at Bc. That's something we just don't know for sure. I just wanted to mention what I did, so you could have a heads up to watch out for control issues if you run them on dampning settings of 3/4 from stiff or lower.

Your right that once the new parts are on, behavior will be different. If for instance you were out to only cure the loose condition you have now, I would not recommend increasing rear bar strength only as a cure, that would be more likely to make the matter worse. Though in the end since I'm not the one driving the car I don't have the ability to truely be at the wheel to sense what may or may not really be in play. I just recommend med/med as your baseline starting point that's all. Higher and higher rear bar level's can impact your ability to get into the throttle coming out of corners as cornering leve's ease and you begin to get into the throttle.

I have SPL front end links, I found that for whatever reason I cannot get the oem front end links to survive for very long. In the rear I don't have a issue with the oems so I still use them, for now.

 

Awsome! Well this leads me to another question for you. What are you running for an alignment? I was going to make a pretty aggressive setup becasue I plan on getting into auto crossing this summer. I dont have it figured out yet cause I want to get all the pieces on and set the alignment to factory specs then go from there.

 

Pretty much everyone no matter what your into runs rear toe in. In the front some guys like a little toe out in the front, some run toe in. For the ideal camber setting you need a tire pyrometer so it can tell for a fact what the best camber setting is. My suspension recently changed and I made my first adjustments to the camber settings based on the my pyrometer readings. Once I'm happy with the pyrometer readings, then I'll take the car in to be corner weighted/aligned (really to get the toe set).