Camber Arms
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Was reading all the posts I could find comparing front camber arms before buying.I like the design of the Cusco arms the most but found out if you ever need new dust boots you have to buy a whole new ball joint. Not good.
The Megan Racing arms look good also but not a lot of people have experience with them.
The Megan Racing arms look good also but not a lot of people have experience with them.
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I'd suggest you check out the SPL camber/caster arms. For only a few bucks more you get a greater range of camber adjustment and the added ability to adjust caster. They come with threaded adjusters that will never slip and QA1 chromoly rod ends. For the money these things simply cannot be beat in my opinion. They're now offered in a street spec or race spec version also.
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Yeah, I was looking at the SPL arms and talked to Steve Mitchel at M-Workz since he uses them. Relentless Auto also has them on their car. I have seen how difficult it is to adjust arms with a four bolt slider like Stillen and CUSCO. Their isn't enough droop in the suspension to work over the top of the arm to get to the adjustment bolts easily. Looking at SPC which is also popular you only have that one large bolt and I wonder if it is prone to slipping. EVO350 arms were smart, their bolt heads face down under the arm for better accesability but high price and limited availability.
I just wish the SPL arms had some gussets at the tube joins. They look so spindly as they are.Unitech machined theirs from billet because they were getting a lot of flex out of the forged OEM arms.
I just wish the SPL arms had some gussets at the tube joins. They look so spindly as they are.Unitech machined theirs from billet because they were getting a lot of flex out of the forged OEM arms.
Last edited by RKnight; 05-03-2007 at 05:58 AM.
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Originally Posted by RKnight
I just wish the SPL arms had some gussets at the tube joins. They look so spindly as they are.Unitech machined theirs from billet because they were getting a lot of flex out of the forged OEM arms.
Not sure if you actually saw our arms in person, but the 1.125" chromoly tubing we use is alot more substantial than it looks in pictures. Our tubing has about 6-7 TIMES the cross section of the stock arm, on top of that, the tensile strength of normalized chromoly (4130) is about TWICE that of billet 6061-T6 aluminum. Chromoly actually also has a better strength to weight ratio than 6061 aluminum. Our arms are substantially stronger than the stock arms, and while I don't have the dimensions for the Unitech arms, I will bet money that our arms are stronger than their arms as well (since otherwise they would need the equivalent of 1.5" thick solid round 6061 aluminum).
Remember that 1.5" chromoly tubing is what is used in ROLL CAGES (before alot of the rules changed because some shops were not normalizing the chromoly after welding).
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Does anyone distribute your arms out here in SoCa. I don't think Steve at M-WORKZ usually sells parts but if he could I would buy from him. I know I can get them from your web site but under my circumstances it would be better if I could get them locally.
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Originally Posted by RKnight
Does anyone distribute your arms out here in SoCa. I don't think Steve at M-WORKZ usually sells parts but if he could I would buy from him. I know I can get them from your web site but under my circumstances it would be better if I could get them locally.
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Cusco's on my own car since 2005 - the first set brought in ever went on my car.
I can't tell you how many times we've adjusted these at the track....zero issues, took all of 5 mins per side to adjust, and have never had any negative issue with them at all (and, they are silent!)
I can't tell you how many times we've adjusted these at the track....zero issues, took all of 5 mins per side to adjust, and have never had any negative issue with them at all (and, they are silent!)
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I wonder if the SPL arms are suitable for a daily driver that I only track 3-4 times a year. Will you get a lot of noise and vibration thru the heim joints compared to poly. Also are all the pieces SS so they won't rust from rain.
From what I have heard the Cosco are adjustable in a set degree of increments according to what holes you install the bolts in? Does that mean that even though the arm is slotted once the bolts are installed there is no way the plate can slip?
From what I have heard the Cosco are adjustable in a set degree of increments according to what holes you install the bolts in? Does that mean that even though the arm is slotted once the bolts are installed there is no way the plate can slip?
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Originally Posted by RKnight
From what I have heard the Cosco are adjustable in a set degree of increments according to what holes you install the bolts in? Does that mean that even though the arm is slotted once the bolts are installed there is no way the plate can slip?
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this is good info, I just got the Cusco arms along with the tien Drift master setup with EDFC, and the GT spec lowere rear tie bar, and the nismo sway bars....I'll let you guys know how everything feels, but I was worried about the a-arms...I trust Adam though...sounds good.
Adam...do you know about JIC's links (rear camber link/traction rods) ....I heard they were the best, but you know alot about suspension so....
Adam...do you know about JIC's links (rear camber link/traction rods) ....I heard they were the best, but you know alot about suspension so....
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we've used the JIC links before - they work well, but are quite pricey. Very nicely produced, but takes a very good alignment shop to understand how to setup independantly adjustable links properly.
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oh ok...yeah I I have a really good shop here, after they corner balance the car they will do everything that's necessary to get it right where I need it. Thanks for your help....