I am gonna lower my Z about 1.2-1.5 inches and know i need new front A-arms to bring the camber back into spec. my question was if cuco arms provide enough positive camber adjustment to bring it back into spec. I've heard it only provides .5 + camber. and they are techinally called "Cusco Negative Camber Upper A-Arms".

Thanks guys

 

I think Cusco only offers +0.5 degree. There's some type of mod you can do to them to adjust more (on 3 5 0 z - t e c h). I read the DIY write-up but still wasn't clear on how to do it. I would like to know more too.

 

yeah, i heard toykilla modded it. but didnt say how. a lot of people seem to like these arms for the price so i hope some can chime in here.

thanks

 

mine are fine...had enough to put it to where I wanted it... I'm running 1.9 camber on the passenger sidefront, and 2.0 on the driver side

 

if you're trying to get into stock specs for camber and you slam it, it will be tricky with the cuscos from what I've read. Why buy them if you need to mod them to get them to work for you if there are other options out there that will get you into spec much easier? SPL's have a ton of camber adjustment plus caster adjustment and there are other options out there with more adjustment than the Cusco's.

 

no one can tell you how many degrees of adjustment you can get out of any a arm, they can only tell you how many mm....how that mm adjustment translates to YOUR car is also something no one can tell you, as each car is different. Different based on where your alignment currently sits, combined with your rideheight, wheel and tire specs.

That being said, my own car is far lower than yours (I am dropped just about 2 inches up front), and can get down into stock spec range if I so desire. I, by purpose chose not to, as these cars absolutely love more front camber, and deal with it quite easily. People get too easily freaked out by incrased negative camber on these cars for absolutely no reason....they like camber, both front and back.

Modding the Cusco arms for increased adjustability has been posted before too...it's quite easy for any half way handy person to do, and all it takes is looking at the piece to be able to figure it out

Are there other arms out there? Absolutely. But, nothing at the price point of the Cusco. Not to mention, they are absolutely silent in their operation, thanks to the bushing used.

Now, getting a hold of a set is the tricky part, as there is a long long waiting list, both here and in Japan for them, due to backorders with the ball joint supplier.

 

SPL= 1 degree of total positive camber correction.

Cusco = .5mm of total positive correction.

Question I have, what is .5mm in terms of degree's on the alignment rack?

A certain amount of owners will be drawn to the Cusco product because of price, they are $390 vs the SPL at $549.

 

the car my like it for the track but for long term drivability, my tires wont.

 

you would be wrong though - Im not talking running 3 or 4 degrees, I am talking running in the -1.5-2 range which is, at most 3/4 of a degree more than factory....not a substantial change at all

not only that, but toe is what truly kills tires....not camber, unless all you do is cross country highway driving, never making turns

Gsedan35 - that's just it, you really can't transpose what it equals in degrees, since the degree variance is totally tied to the car itself (starting specs, wheel/tire combo). It really can only be quoted in mm of change.

 

I'll say this I had my car lowered first on B&G springs which were a 1.6" drop up front and a 1.5" drop in the rear. With Cusco A Arms unmodified and SPC camber arms and toe bolts I got my car back into spec and more specifically to the settings I wanted. On the B&G springs I ended up with -1.5 degrees on both wheels in the front with a slight toe in and -1.5 degrees in the rear on both sides with 0 toe. When I switched to HKS coilovers I moved the ride height up about .2 inches in the front and .1 in the rear and my camber in thr front stayed about -1.4 to -1.5 same slightl toe in up front (-0.1 overall) and I moved the rear toe to -0.1 overall as well with camber staying at -1.5 degrees. This is all with a 1.4" drop front and rear.

 

That is not correct... if you know the change in length of the upper arm, then by simple geometry you will know the change in camber. That is why we (SPL) and all the other manufacturers (SPC, Stillen, etc) quote the relative change in camber possible with our arms. It takes about 0.33" or 8.4mm for 1 degree of camber.

If you know (or calculate) the camber curve of the car, you can actually work out the fairly accurately how much camber the car will have for a certain drop and what settings you can reasonably reach with different aftermarket upper arms. Wheels and tires do not affect camber at all, other than affecting your ride height measurement, which should be compensated for in the calculation of the drop.

I had considered publishing a spreadsheet to calculate all this, and may work on it when I have some free time...

 

the cusco A-arm is perfectly fine without any modification, and it make ABSOLUTELY no noise whatsoever...very very quiet. I'm running an agressive offset

Front Driver is about -2.0 Front passenger is about -1.9

Rear on both sides is about -2.2 I kept it more positive (instead of running -2.7) for drifting...but agressive enough for a course. it feels very good on the Tein SD coilovers.

 

Tires are designed, optimized, and built for no more than -0.75 degrees negative static camber.

 

that really makes no sense, as this can't be the case for every tire (maybe non performance oriented touring all seasons or winter tires, and even then, it's so subjective). Second, there are plenty of cars that come, from the factory with more than .75 degree static camber. Third, camber is, for all intents and purposes never static, unless the car does not move from a resting position. Camber is completely dynamic.

 

If any one is interested, I have a set of Cusco arms with only 800 miles for sale 300.00 shipped.

Cesar

 

What arms will allow for the most positive camber adjustment. Cusco's I believe were .5 of a degree. I was looking around and I think I saw the SPC's had 3 degrees of positive correction??? Any other suggestions with out spending too much $$$

 

the better question to ask is how many degrees of adjustment do you need?

 

how do you know how many degrees of adjustments do you need? I'm dropped on Espelir Active GTs which is slightly less than an inch of a drop all around.

 

you bring it to an alignment shop, put the car on the rack, and see how far away from factory specs you are, assuming you want to go back to factory specs.