Camber
Thought I would post some before and after pics. First photos are no camber/toe adjustment after lowering the car close to 2". Second photos are after installing JIC camber/toe rods. Thanks to Richard at Dyno Comp in Scottsdale for helping dial it all in.
Dare if I ask how much? I think Stillen is coming out with a set as well! I think I am in the same boat and waiting for toe rods. Any popping and noise? I've read somewhere on this board that JIC toe rods make noise.
With no adjustments it was close to -2.7 deg. After he was able to get it to -1.3 deg . Cost was around $1k for the parts." Stillens camber/toe rods are JIC". I tried to go with just the Camber rods but I could not get the alignment dialed with less than about -2 deg. So I had to pony up for the traction as well. As far as any noise, there is none. The components are very well built. Over priced but well built. The front toe/camber with about 1 1/2" drop are fine.
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$1K is a little much for 2 metal rods!! I guess that's the price I'll have to pay for lowering my carr rso darn much! Any idea if other companies are making the toe rods?
Guys...I don't know much about cars, and I gather and learn most from this board.
As far as I understand, lowering your car will always create more negative camber. Don't forget every time you lower your car, you should let the springs sit a few days and do an alignment. If you didn't lower it too much, the stock arms/rods are slightly adjustable and you can usually dial it back to spec. If not, aftermarket rods have more adjustability and will let you adjust to within spec. The main idea for the rods is to reduce the negative camber to a point to minimize negative camber or to within spec.
If you notice, most cars have slight negative camber in the back (our Z, BMWs, Mercedes). Negative camber improves handling, and I guess that's why you see a lot of slammed ricers with wheels and tires that look slanted (lowered too much).
Any car gurus, please correct me if I am wrong, and hope this helps!!
As far as I understand, lowering your car will always create more negative camber. Don't forget every time you lower your car, you should let the springs sit a few days and do an alignment. If you didn't lower it too much, the stock arms/rods are slightly adjustable and you can usually dial it back to spec. If not, aftermarket rods have more adjustability and will let you adjust to within spec. The main idea for the rods is to reduce the negative camber to a point to minimize negative camber or to within spec.
If you notice, most cars have slight negative camber in the back (our Z, BMWs, Mercedes). Negative camber improves handling, and I guess that's why you see a lot of slammed ricers with wheels and tires that look slanted (lowered too much).
Any car gurus, please correct me if I am wrong, and hope this helps!!
i took my car in a few weeks after i installed the springs. the test said they were still within the correct specs. when i look at it...yeah, they look a bit slanted...but, very slightly. i am going to hold a level up to them tonight to see how bad it is...but the test said it was still within the correct specs. maybe i should have it checked again???
djk
djk
I think anything within -1 camber is fine. I don't know about the Z, but some cars have negative camber stock...which as I mentioned, improves handling.
Hey djkern,
Do you have pics of your fog lights? I'd like to check them out, thanks!
Hey djkern,
Do you have pics of your fog lights? I'd like to check them out, thanks!
Originally posted by Moodie
Do you have pics of your fog lights? I'd like to check them out, thanks!
Do you have pics of your fog lights? I'd like to check them out, thanks!
also, i am going to post my numbers from the allignment that i had done...you guys can let me know what you think (but, they were all in the green....meaning still ok).
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=30111
(it's the last picture)
djk



