I'm in the process of putting tokico d-spec shock and eibach sportline springs. I've run into a snag with taking the front stock shock apart. I can't get the 17mm nut on top of the spring seat off. I've tried everything from holding the bolt with a wrench and holding the seating with a vise to heating the nut and still nothing.

My questions are:

1. Does anyone know a trick to getting the nut off without the piston spinning?
2. What all of the seating is needed for the new shocks? is everyone using the dust cover?
3. There are two 17mm nuts that come with the springs. Is one for the top and one for the bottom bolt? and if so why the bolt but no washers? is the a clearance issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Well, if the piston is spinning while turning the nut, then you need to clamp the piston off. It's been awhile, but I thought there was a flat surface on the piston itself where you could apply the vise or have a friend hold with some type of grip. I hope I'm right. I've done this twice and didn't have any problems that way.

 

there is a flat spot on the top of the thread but holding it doesn't seem to help. I can't get to the center of the piston because the spring is in the way.

 

So there is no way of putting some channel locks of vice grips in there, while someone else holds. Have you tried using a impact to zip it off? If you have one. Just be careful doing it. But if you put the flat spot clamped down on the vice, it shouldn't spin at all. You should be able to take a wrench and back it off. I'm still trying to picture though, it's been about a year since I last done.

 

post a pic so we can have a better idea if u can..

 

A good quality High speed air impact will generally work. It hits the Nut so Fast and with so much torque that the rod hasnt time to even think of spinning

 

sweeeeet, i want one of them

 

I actually have a great impact gun and still nothing. I will try and post some pics tomorrow. It's funny because I work on full carbon fiber race cars with the most advanced setups in the world on them everyday and this single bolt on my Z is holding up the whole process and giving me the biggest headache. The vise idea might work (I fell a little dumb for not thinking of that myself, but hey that's what forums are for). That's for all the advice guys. Ill let you know in case this happens to someone else.

 

Well --where there a will theres a way---Iv had some that are tough, but if the impact alone didnt work, I just had to come up with a way to grasp the piston rod and use the impact. Vice Grips (MADE by Vice Grip !) are wonderful tools if used properly.

I might add, before it's mentioned, cuz I hear it alot----Forget about WD 40---your just pullin your *****. Useless in this situation

One thought---and Im not looking at mine right now but....high heat for a short time (torch) applied to JUST the Nut will expand it temporarily, then hit it with the air wrench.

Also ---generally on the very end of the rod there is usually a non threaded spot---thats good for a vicegrip and a boxend wrench to be used

If threads get knurled up ---Thats what Dies are for

I keep thinking of things---Seems to me--Iv had better luck if there is weight on the suspension (wheels on the ground)

 

when i did my springs, i loosened that nut before doing anything... with the weight of the car on them. i just removed the strut bar, loosed the nuts, then proceeded to jack up the car and uninstall

 

I am changing my shocks to tokico next week... i am trying to follow what you guys rae talking about but i am lost, can someone post a pic of what you guys are talking about??

 

this is correct, you will need weight of the car on it for you to take off the nut. But like eazzzzy said, strong impact gun will do the trick. 500LBS+ of course.

 

As I said at the end of my post---Yes---That helps, and in the case on the Z helps alot.

I do so many, along with clutchs and Engine -work etc that Iv reached a point that I just do it without thinking about it.

 

1.Yes

2.Huh, well I'll take a shot. Transfer all parts, your dust shields also have the bumpstops built into them.

3. Depend on if the shocks have a nut welding onto them at the bottom. Washers or lack of them isn't going to be a clearance issue, Koni provides washers, but I've seen many others that don't. Thankfully washers are cheap.

Purchase the Craftman offset wrench in the center of the picture below, on end is 19mm and the other is 17mm


Position the wrench's on the shock/spring assembly exactly like you see in the picture below.



While applying as much body weight as you can with your foot to keep the whole spring/shock assembly from moving, pull back on the wrench and break the but free.


Even though I own a impact wrench this is the method I use. I do not trust spinning the piston shaft on the seals of the shock/dampner.

 

+1 , you beat me to it. Make sure you put the nut back on ( to the locking feature) before you jack the car up.

 

I would never shoot a air tool gun on them because u can easily blow the seals on those shox and they will ride like hell...btw u will know when ur shox are blown...

Just like the other member did, i loosen mine when it was on the car flat to the ground, this makes it a lot easier to turn when u take them off of the car...hope this helps...

 

Hasn't any one here heard of a srping compressor?

 

I have a spring compressor but his has nothing to do with keeping the internal piston from spinning.

It seems the best trick is loosening them with the full weight of the car down. Unfortunately I've already taken them out so it looks like they're going back in. Oh well, live and learn...

 

For the removal its kinda needed. Of course who cares if they are being replaced anyhow.

 

Gsedan.. i just got my tokico shocks and it says if the polis part is damage or shows the a tool has made contact with it.. the warranty is voided.