twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Searced and couldnt find squat.

Well my friend says that if I get 1 inch lowering springs that my stock shocks will be shot in a little over 2 months of regular driving. He said that it destroys the stock shocks and the car will ride like ****. I also dont want to ruin my Z by doing this. Just want the car lower for looks.


Is this true? Ive been looking into a Eibach 1 inch kit, the stock ride height looks like my worst nightmare and coilovers arent in my budget. I live in florida and twisties are not popular, mainley just light to light and highway riding.



Thanks a bunch guys. -chris-

Jarred@Z1

iTrader: (4)

Just dont lower it so much look into RSR or cobb tuning but ive never heard of it or seen it but that isnt to say it doesnt happen.

VIZAGE

iTrader: (20)

It will tear shocks down faster. How fast? You can't really say. So far as two months, that's BS. There would have to be other factors at play. I've been on Eibach Pro-kit (1") for half a year with two handfulls of hard runs. Still feels the same in every aspect.

So far as stock shocks go. I never really like them, the rebound sucks. Will be replacing very shortly.

Watkins

iTrader: (1)

With every single car I have owned that has been lowered I have replaced the dampers when I put the lowering springs on. It doesn't matter if the drop is half an inch or two inches because no matter what, it is going to decrease the life of the damper so I figure instead of having to pull the car apart later on, I might as well do everything at the same time.

VN_350z

iTrader: (3)

yes, it will kill your shocks to the point you can not even drive the Z then you have to take them out and give them to me.

VIZAGE

iTrader: (20)

Best cost factor! Buy a coilover kit.

Watkins

iTrader: (1)

Eh, I dunno. Full set of dampers using the Blues $150 for the front $120 for the rear equaling $270, add lowering springs for a $200 or so and you are at less than $500 for a full suspension swap. I don't think there are any coilovers that cost that little, not to mention you will still have to buy camber arms if you are going real low.

Jarred@Z1

iTrader: (4)

Remember guys sway bars make about the biggest difference on these cars.

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...140&perfCode=S


Was gonna get those, what do u guys think, just a 1 inch drop.

Jarred@Z1

iTrader: (4)

im not down with progressive springs

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

OK how about the Hotchkis kit.


How about these http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/s...413&perfCode=S

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Ok just ordered the Hotchkis kit. Will post pics and ride quality when there on next week.

Jarred@Z1

iTrader: (4)

Hotchkis sways are a night and day change the springs are pretty good the car settles really low you will need a camber kit.

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Where the heck do I get that?? It said only .6 and .8 drop?!?!?

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...48&postcount=9

VIZAGE

iTrader: (20)

That's true in that case. But if your going to buy shocks, at least get the D-Spec. There adjustable. The Blue's are only 25% better than stock. In which there still great though and I would might trying them out also. There's just so many variables.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

you do not "need" a camber kit with the Hotchkis unless you run very wide, low offset wheels and tires, or if you want control over the rear alignment. Is it nice to have? Sure, and if you want it, we have them in stock

SeannMikee

iTrader: (2)

Can someone explain to me what a new camber kit is and where do i get it..How much are they.

azula

iTrader: (12)

a camber kit lets you adjust the alignment of your vehicle's wheels without having to constantly get it aligned at a tire shop....

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

not really true at all - you still need a proper alignment place to do the alignment for you once the camber/toe kits are installed

I'll explain

From the factory, neither front camber nor rear camber is adjustable. The only adjustable aspects of the Z's alignment are front toe (via the tie rod ends), and rear toe. However rear toe adjustment on the Z is miniscule, and only workable for stock height cars or cars with tiny drops (less than /12 inch typically).

When you lower a Z, the net result is you get more negative camber, and more toe in, and in order to keep the car stable, and keep tire wear in check, this needs to be corrected. The negative camber you get in and of itself is not bad, as these cars actually like more camber than the factory typically provides for. However, the camber needs to be even side to side, in order to maintain prooper suspension geometry, and good tire wear. As far as toe, that is what kills tires, period. Toe needs to be set to factory levels, otherwise you end up with a very twitchy car that does not do what you ask, wanders on the highway, and will go through tires quickly. Keep in mind too that as you fit aftermarket wheels and tires that are wider than stock, and with lower offsets, any alignment issues you had with stock tires are now exaggerated further, because an alignment is, at the end of the day, setting the relationship between the tire mounted on your car, and the ground.

Most people when lowering these cars will purchase a rear camber/toe kit only. The most popular and highly regarded is by SPC. Their kit consists of a threaded adjustable "lateral" arm (runs east-west from the rear cross member to the rear hub), and an eccentric toe bolt. The arm will let you dial in the camber to whatever you want, and it is adjustable for up to +/- 4 degrees. The rear eccentric toe bolt replaces the factory toe bolt, which has a very narrow adjustment range, and replaces it with an eccentric bolt that allows for +/- 3 degrees. This will give you full control over your rear alignment

Here is a picture of the SPC kit components



You get one arm for each rear side, and one toe bolt for each side. Install is easy, takes about an hour (hardest part is enlarging the factory toe bolt hole to fit the more eccentric SPC toe bolt) - this can be done by any shop, or by any do it yourselfer with a die grinder and the right bit. Once installed, you will get full control over the rear alignment of the Z/G. So, you'll now be able to take the car to an alignment shop, and have them properly align the car, despite it being lower than stock.

Cost for the SPC kit is on our site here:

http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...ng&prodid=1314

However we typically do it for $165 shipped for forum members here, and we've sold hundreds and hundreds of them since the kit came out. It really is the best means of adjustment, and once in the car, you'll never know it's there - it works just like a factory part would.

Front camber adjustment becomes nececessary when you start lowering the car significantly (past 1 inch usually). Different peoples cars will react differently when lowering, since not everyones Z came with the same alignment specs from the factory (some are barely in spec at all!) As you lower the front, the same problems occur - toe in and negative camber. The negative camber is not a tremendous issue, but it has to be even side to side, and you can only do this with an adjustable front a arm. Several companies offer these, and you can search on here for various options. Front toe is already adjustable on the Z (as it is on any car) via the front tie rod ends, so your alignment shop will have no problem getting toe back in spec perfectly no matter what.

Any questions, let me know

Adam