I have a 04 with factory suspension. My question is, does the Z come from the factory with this much negative camber in the rear? I can see the bottom lip much more then the top. I've read the rear camber and toe can be adjusted seperately. At stock height, are SPC bolts needed to correct this sqatting effect?

My front wheels are pointed out a bit, toe-out \ / Not by much but noticeable if you look front the front angle. Normal? Just need some answers before going to the alignment shop. Thanks for any help.

 

every car is different, and considering your car is an 04, alingments change over time

if you bring it to an alignment shop, they can tell you if its in spec or out of spec, and from there you can make the decision on what, if anything, you need to purchase to correct it

 

Important to have alignment tested before you take delivery, as transport may change as built and dealers may not correct before you get the car.

In broad oem in warranty spec vs nominal [perfect] is always a good thing to know.

 

I wish my rear camber was that straight up and down.

When I put my 305's on, the outer tread blocks, which are about 1 1/2" wide, didn't even touch the ground at first, rolling over a flat shop floor. They woudn't touch the ground unless going around corners at speed.

Now that they have about 4,500 miles on them, about 2/3rds of the outer blocks touch rolling through a flat shop floor. I thought for sure they would wear out unevenlly but they are actually wearing pretty evenlly across the board.

I can't really do much to fix it now, until I step down to a 295 next time because I don't have the fender clearance to adjust it where it should be, without messing with the fender lip more. The 295's will actually improve cornering anyway. Even though they are a little less wide, with the camber corrected they will hook up even better than the 305's. With all the negative camber I have now they don't hook up much better than stock tires LOL. As they wear down, it is getting better traction. Sticks like fockin glue in corners though, which is how I drive it hard anyways.

Had Hotchkis put in and alignment done. Then they settled and then I cut 1/2" off rear bushing, so that's why mines outta wack now.

 

if you had a rear camber kit, you could have avoided all of those issues and had it dialed in perfectly

 

anyone know off the top of their head what the camber specs are for the front and rear?

 

+1 my rear toe is def off (0.03L -2.52R= -2.49) but i need factory specs.

 

Nominal front -0.7 nominal rear -1.1 degrees camber but this only applies to oem tires and wheels.

With any after market tires or wheels you will have to develop your own alignment numbers to be correct at 60 mph.

Failure to achieve nominal is the result of something bent minutely.......it doesn't take much to be out of spec by 0.5 degrees a cumlative total of 1/16".