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Hotchkis TVS Stage 1 Kit experiences

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Old 02-21-2008, 12:40 PM
  #21  
moxy350z
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I haven't had any bad experiences with my Kit. I've set my sway bars to the third setting and it's great. This kit with my 20's made a hugh diffence. I looked at a few different alternative but for the money you most certainly cannot go wrong.

Make sure you get a four wheel alignment.

Enjoy......
Old 02-21-2008, 02:02 PM
  #22  
Beau
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Originally Posted by Z1NONLY
The front springs are stiffer than stock. (for less nose dive)

The rear springs are softer but the Hotchkis sways, that come with the TVS kit, stiffen up roll resistance. Without the sways, the perception of less body roll may come from having a lower center of gravity.
I believe the front springs are only 10lbs stiffer than stock, should be barely noticable.

The poster said that he ONLY had the springs, no swaybars. From what I have read about suspension geometry, it's not the center of gravity that has the greatest impact on body roll, but rather the roll center which is not usually the same point. On top of that, the center of gravity and roll center don't usually change at the same rate as you lower a car.

I could be wrong on this next statement, but it seems to make sense. When you lower the car, the CG will always be lower. But, it seems like the roll center is also improved after lowering the car making it roll less than stock given equal spring rates.

Maybe somebody else has better information to work with, but I've searched all over these forums and the internet and this is what I've come up with.
Old 02-22-2008, 01:21 PM
  #23  
ginobetterfly
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Originally Posted by Beau
So even being a bit lower, and the rear springs being softer, you are noticing less body roll AND less nose dive under hard braking? Makes me think the suspension geometry actually gets BETTER after you lower it.

From what I've been reading online, when you lower a car it messes with the center of gravity and the roll center of the car so that you USUALLY get more roll and more nose dive because now the geometry is out of whack. Sounds like you are observing the opposite.

Thanks for the observation, helps a lot. I've been obsessing for months over how lowering the Z affects the overall suspension geometry.
I def FEEL better handling.. now whether or not thats in my head or not, im not sure... all i can say is, is that im extremely happy with the springs (the handling and looks) and cant wait to test em out on a track... Hope that helps...
Old 02-23-2008, 01:01 PM
  #24  
Jon70ProofZ
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Originally Posted by MethodRN
I've had mine on for a while now and have had no issues. It's a great drop for daily, the ride is just as good as stock if not better. As mentioned before, it's not too drastic of a drop that you can't get over things. Here's a pic. or 2





Wheels are 19" w/ 255/35 in front and 285/35 rear.
that looks great
Old 02-23-2008, 01:30 PM
  #25  
350Zenophile
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I'm on the fence with this kit. I liked the mild drop for city driving/clearance and the fact that you can get back into alignment spec without having to buy aftermarket control arms. I was also attracted to the "claimed" lower drop in the rear b/c the Z does ride a little high in the back and of course the price.

My kit didn't drop the advertised amount so they sent me a second set of rear springs which dropped about the same as the front but still not the claimed amount for whatever reason.

I was concerned with the low spring rate in the rear as well but really only notice it when I go over one bridge in the area that has seams...then it bounces, which is exactly how the 2003-2004 guys described the 1st gen soft suspension (mine had the revised 04.5 stiffer rear springs).

With all the amazing reviews on this forum I guess my expectations were set too high going in. Yeah it handles better at lower speeds but high speeds are a bit less confidence inspiring. Perhaps with better matched shocks that would change?

Oh and I have the swaybar clunk front and rear going over odd-cambers too...planning on getting under there soon to check that out, but the solution seems to be a new set of endlinks.
Old 02-23-2008, 02:51 PM
  #26  
ginobetterfly
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Originally Posted by MethodRN


How did you get almost ZERO gap??

I got GAP up the wazzooo:


Did you cut the rear spring mount? I realize you have 19s and i got 18s, but still it should make that big of a difference... should it?

Another with the NTO3s :

Last edited by ginobetterfly; 02-23-2008 at 03:14 PM.
Old 02-23-2008, 04:56 PM
  #27  
laze1
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Use "locktite" on the end link nuts are tighten them as tight as you can get them without striping the bolts/nuts...that will fix the clunking noise

Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
Oh and I have the swaybar clunk front and rear going over odd-cambers too...planning on getting under there soon to check that out, but the solution seems to be a new set of endlinks.
Old 02-23-2008, 05:12 PM
  #28  
D350Z10
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Originally Posted by ginobetterfly
How did you get almost ZERO gap??

I got GAP up the wazzooo:


Did you cut the rear spring mount? I realize you have 19s and i got 18s, but still it should make that big of a difference... should it?

Another with the NTO3s :

Yooo can you please post pics of your rear tires... rear shots, width and so on.

Thanks,
Dil
Old 02-23-2008, 05:48 PM
  #29  
ginobetterfly
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All i got so far is this:

Ill take more when the sun is out...

You can see some WIDTH in this pic... They're preeeetty wide:


295/35/18
Old 02-24-2008, 07:56 AM
  #30  
Jon70ProofZ
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Originally Posted by ginobetterfly
All i got so far is this:

Ill take more when the sun is out...

You can see some WIDTH in this pic... They're preeeetty wide:


295/35/18
your tire size is what makes it look like that. your running a 35 series on a 18 the total diameter of your 18 is about a half an inch shorter than the 19 on his car
Old 02-24-2008, 08:23 AM
  #31  
MethodRN
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Not sure what to tell you ginobetterfly... Didn't cut anything. No sub enclosure. There's about a finger gap.
Old 02-24-2008, 10:31 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Jon70ProofZ
your tire size is what makes it look like that. your running a 35 series on a 18 the total diameter of your 18 is about a half an inch shorter than the 19 on his car
yeah i figured that... just didnt think it would make THAT much difference...

thanks though!
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