There must be a thread somewhere, but I can't find one which addresses camber and toe for stock height.

I have SPC camber kit, not installed yet and SPL A arms.

These are my two questions regarding the rear of the car:

1. Since my car is stock height, can I set the rear camber to -2 degrees without installing the camber kit?
2. If I install the rear camber arms, since the car is stock height, can I skip the toe bolts for now if I it set to -2 degrees?

I'll would eventually install the toe bolts when I get coilovers, unless it's a must now.

Thanks!

 

1. no
2. no

as you change camber, you change toe, and vice versa

 

Thank you.

I'll give some more info to better explain what I'm getting at.

I just put 5Zigen FN01R-C in 18x9.5 +22 all around with 275/35/18 Nitto NT01 on all four corners. My car is stock height. With these wheels and tires, the tires stick out a bit. I can't install the SPL arms before a trackday I have on Friday, so I'm wondering if I can take the car as is or if it will rub. This won't be an issue once I get some negative camber.

So now I'm trying to figure out how much suspension travel the car has, and how much the wheel gets pulled in(if at all) when the suspension compresses if it hasn't been lowered, and sits on OEM shocks and springs. If I must have someone else install them before the event I'll do that, but I really want to install them myself. So if it can wait until after the event, I'll wait. If not, then I'll have someone install the SPC rear kit with toe bolts and the front SPL arms at the same time.

Opinions welcome.

 

best bet is just to take the car out and see if it rubs or not - no one is going to be able to give you a yes or no on that specific combo on your car, since the cars come with a range of factory alignment settings

 

I took it out on some of the back roads and went over a specific street with lots of quick elevation changes where the suspension gets a lot of travel. Then some sharp corners and even did some trail braking on some of the tighter ones, and it did'nt rub.

Problem is, I know that's not even close to the loads the car will see at the track.

 

unfortunatley your only way of finding out is to take it to the track, or to install the arms and not have to worry

 

1. Yes , and -2 is within factory spec. I actually got -2.1 out of mine with fully stock suspension, and the toe was within spec.

2. Not needed. But they are easier to adjust, and stronger.

The other question , your car will be fine. Our cars camber A LOT thru the suspension movement, and your rear tire is to short to really worry about it. I run 275/40-17 on 17x9 +17 on the track, my setup is within 1mm of yours with the same tire height.

 

^ Thanks!

What about the front, do you run a square setup?

 

how did you adjust camber without an adjustable camber arm?

Installing the whole SPC kit takes maybe an hour total for both sides...best to just do the toe bolt and arm at the same time, and get it aligned, this way you can actually get some meaningful data from your track day in terms of pressure, etc

 

If you look under the car there is an ecentric on both the spring arm and the factory camber arm. Adjustment is limited, but -2 is easy to get with factory suspension, put it on an alignment rack and do it.

 

Right, but to suggest to someone that -2 degrees is easy is not accurate for all cars, it was accurate for your car. I've found there to be less than .5 degree net change that you can do with the factory eccentric bolts from whatever settings it starts from. The Z does not come with a singular factory setting for camber and toe - these settings have a range from the factory. So while you're car might have car come with -1.75 rear camber the rear from the factory, someone else might have only come with -.75 from the factory (for example). Often the specs are not even the same side to side, since there is a range considered factory acceptable. Where the car starts out from the factory, determines where the car ends up, whether you're lowering it, putting on wider wheels, wheels with lower offsets, installing wider tires, etc or a combo of all of these. The only way to know how any of these changes, either on their own, or in combination, is going to affect the particular car is to measure before, try the new item and measure again. Sometimes you might luck out, other times you won't. Some cars might be able to be dropped an inch before being out of the factory specified range, other cars might not be able to take even 1/2 inch drop before tossing them out of the factory range.

 

My car is currently at -1.6 on the rear.

I'm going to try it out as is.

Thanks for all the info.

 

Did a day at thunderhill raceway and the car had no clearance issues at all. Just wanted to post this info incase other people are wondering.

Arms are on now front/rear and getting an alignment tomorrow.

When installing the rear camber arms I saw what terrasmak is talking about. The car does have adjustability on the back and mine still had a bit to go with stock arms. I installed the SPC arms anyway since they are easier to adjust.