I Need suspension help badddd!!!
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Hello everyone well I just baught my 06 350z grand touring and I baught H an R springs for it and I lowered it last week but I need to align it now but one of my friends told me that I am going to have to purchase camber arms or something like that in order to allign it properly, is this true? and if not what do I have to do in order to allign the car properly cause my tires are real negative right now and its eating my tire away quickly
#2
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-lowered Z's are known to eat inner tyres really quick.
-Camber arms should help you restore the alignment to 0 (or at least closer to it)
-IMO the slight negative camber alignment u get from lowering is just perfect,
especially when you go circuit driving
-Wait for the springs to settle first before doing the alignment.
-Camber arms should help you restore the alignment to 0 (or at least closer to it)
-IMO the slight negative camber alignment u get from lowering is just perfect,
especially when you go circuit driving
-Wait for the springs to settle first before doing the alignment.
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Eibach camber kit. Cheaper and great. First install the springs and wait for alighment results. If you go down about one inch or more is pretty sure you will need them. Price is a little more than 100 bucks.
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From my understanding the Eibach and SPC camber kits are the same thing and they both are great. I personally have the SPC rear camber/toe kit on my 07 Z and had an alignment done. The front I just left it stock. So, I decided to just have the alignment back into factory specs. You should not have the car at 0 degrees because the factory specs comes with a little bit of neg camber and a little toe in, just slightly. I'm very happy with my results and the car drives excellent. Oh the front have a little bit more camber than what the max allowable factory setting because I do not have a front camber kit, but no big deal... still a great ride, tires in the front don't wear out any faster than before. hope this helps. Good luck.
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Yup the eibach and the SPC "rear camber kit" are the same, I dont think eibach makes the front though. And go with what "RRMikey" just said, the Z comes with negetive camber already. so just have all your alignment done to stock alignment. Im not sure what the numbers are but i believe they are -1.6? not sure though. You do not need to get the front camber kit, but they will be off stock alignment by .1 - .2 i believe, but its not a big deal at all.
RRMikey, hopefully i can see you on the meet friday!
RRMikey, hopefully i can see you on the meet friday!
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this is from the service manual - some models (like the NISMO edition) may differ slightly, I have not had a chance to look those up
FRONT:
Camber
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum - 1° 20′ (- 1.33°)
Nominal - 0° 35′ (- 0.58°)
Maximum 0° 10′ (0.17°)
Left and right difference 45′ (0.75°)
Caster
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum 7° 25′ (7.42°)
Nominal 8° 10′ (8.17°)
Maximum 8° 55′ (8.92°)
Left and right difference 45′ (0.75°)
Kingpin inclination
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum 4° 20′ (4.33°)
Nominal 5° 05′ (5.08°)
Maximum 5° 50′ (5.83°)
Total toe-in
Distance (A - B)
Minimum 0 mm (0 in)
Nominal 1 mm (0.04 in)
Maximum 2 mm (0.08 in)
REAR:
Camber
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum - 2° 05′ (- 2.08°)
Nominal - 1° 35′ (- 1.58°)
Maximum - 1° 05′ (- 1.08°)
Total toe-in Distance (A - B)
Minimum
0.2 mm (0.008 in) [17 inch tire]
1.1 mm (0.043 in) [18 inch tire]
Nominal
1.0 mm (0.039 in) [17 inch tire]
1.9 mm (0.075 in) [18 inch tire]
Maximum
1.8 mm (0.071 in) [17 inch tire]
2.7 mm (0.106 in) [18 inch tire]
H&R's lower the Z around -1.5 inches front/back as I recall, so similar to what an Eibach sportline is. This is a pretty major drop to run on factory struts. Depending on what your alignment specs were before you lowered it, it is likely that you are totally out of spec now. Only way to know is to get the car to an alignment shop and put it on the rack and note the current specs. From there, you'll know what you may/may not need to buy to put it back to spec. Front camber is non adjustable from the factory; front toe is adjustable (via tie rod ends). Rear camber and toe are slightly adjustable from the factory (via eccentric bolts, but they don't have a ton of adjustability to them).
FRONT:
Camber
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum - 1° 20′ (- 1.33°)
Nominal - 0° 35′ (- 0.58°)
Maximum 0° 10′ (0.17°)
Left and right difference 45′ (0.75°)
Caster
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum 7° 25′ (7.42°)
Nominal 8° 10′ (8.17°)
Maximum 8° 55′ (8.92°)
Left and right difference 45′ (0.75°)
Kingpin inclination
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum 4° 20′ (4.33°)
Nominal 5° 05′ (5.08°)
Maximum 5° 50′ (5.83°)
Total toe-in
Distance (A - B)
Minimum 0 mm (0 in)
Nominal 1 mm (0.04 in)
Maximum 2 mm (0.08 in)
REAR:
Camber
Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum - 2° 05′ (- 2.08°)
Nominal - 1° 35′ (- 1.58°)
Maximum - 1° 05′ (- 1.08°)
Total toe-in Distance (A - B)
Minimum
0.2 mm (0.008 in) [17 inch tire]
1.1 mm (0.043 in) [18 inch tire]
Nominal
1.0 mm (0.039 in) [17 inch tire]
1.9 mm (0.075 in) [18 inch tire]
Maximum
1.8 mm (0.071 in) [17 inch tire]
2.7 mm (0.106 in) [18 inch tire]
H&R's lower the Z around -1.5 inches front/back as I recall, so similar to what an Eibach sportline is. This is a pretty major drop to run on factory struts. Depending on what your alignment specs were before you lowered it, it is likely that you are totally out of spec now. Only way to know is to get the car to an alignment shop and put it on the rack and note the current specs. From there, you'll know what you may/may not need to buy to put it back to spec. Front camber is non adjustable from the factory; front toe is adjustable (via tie rod ends). Rear camber and toe are slightly adjustable from the factory (via eccentric bolts, but they don't have a ton of adjustability to them).
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 10-08-2008 at 07:20 AM.
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t Only way to know is to get the car to an alignment shop and put it on the rack and note the current specs. From there, you'll know what you may/may not need to buy to put it back to spec. Front camber is non adjustable from the factory; front toe is adjustable (via tie rod ends). Rear camber and toe are slightly adjustable from the factory (via eccentric bolts, but they don't have a ton of adjustability to them).
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I agree with you, kind of. The people with little knowlege post here because they want to learn from the wise and experienced ones. Thus making the newbies of now the experts of later. Does this make sense to you?
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