I just got them in but the instructions come in japanese. There are two holes on the ends. Which 1 is stiffer? Do I have to torque them down? Anyone got a step by step on how to take and put them on?

Thanks guys, Jorge

 

Jorge,

With two holes you have, in effect, two choices in swaybar arm length. The longer the arm length, the greater the leverage the suspension has to twist the swaybar 'body', and the more roll your Z will exhibit.

In the front: you have to remove the under-engine cover (big black plastic thing with about a dozen screws) and a passenger-side wheel well splash-guard (three plastic fasteners). Remove all the bracket fasteners (three bolts and one nut per side), and the end-link from each side. When you install the new bar, attach all the fasteners (including the end-links)loosely, then 'snug' all the bracket hardware, then torque the bracket hardware, then torque the end-links. Torque settings are: 55lbs for the brackets' outer bolt/nut; 60 lbs for the brackets' inner bolts; 65lbs for the end-link nuts.

In the rear: remove the passenger-side rear wheel. Remove the two nuts attaching the muffler to the exhaust pipe, and slide the exhaust pipe out of its rear hanger, letting the exhaust pipe hang down (this may not be necessary for your Cusco bar, but it was part of the process for my Stillen). Remove all the hardware, and draw the bar off the car on the passenger side. Same installation technique as front bar, torque is 35-40 lbs for everything.

If you may have new bushings and/or brackets in your kit, use those, otherwise, the bar is designed to use the OEM parts (Stillen was).

Be sure to use appropriate safety precautions -- jackstands, eyewear, EMTs... whatever your level of expertise calls for.

 

Thanx for posting all the info Lateapex. It really covered pretty much everything I needed to know! Thanks again for taking the time!