topic speaks for itself

im using the G2 paint kit

anything important that i should know?

 

nope, just jack up the car as per the PM I sent you a while back and brush it on... just make sure the caliper is clean, dry, and oil free first...

 

put some newpaper on the floor, just in case it drips.

 

JUST PAINTED MINE USING A SILVER G2 PAINT KIT AND BLACK STICKERS FROM JVD GRAPHICS. HARDEST PART IS JACKING UP CAR AND PUTTING ON 4 STANDS. I HAD ENOUGH PAINT FOR 3 COATS.
ENCLOSED ARE FRONT AND BACK PICS.

 

REAR

 

I need to paint mine, retardo me ordered silver caliper stickers, and my calipers are silver.

 

Can someone tell me where to order the paint and decals from? I always thought paint stock calipers was kinda wierd but the silver looks very nice.

 

G-2 paint can be ordered from www.tirerack.com for $38


How long are you letting the calipers dry before driving again?

 

Here is some information regarding painting :

PaintSystem Sets have a shelf life of six months and must be used between 56-70°F (13-21°C) ambient temperatures. Higher temperatures will cause paint to harden faster than normal. Once the paint and reactor are mixed, there are only 4-6 hours working time. After that, paint left in the can will harden and will not be useable.

Do not paint the mating surfaces where the road wheels attach to the brake drums. The wheel’s mounting hub diameter should be measured and masked off on the brake drum prior to painting.

Paint requires 2 hours curing time before reinstalling wheels. Do not use the vehicle for 24 hours to allow the paint to fully harden. Plan application accordingly.

Hope you have an air conditioned garage!!!!

 

Just a simple trick... Tin foil is great to use to mask the surfaces you're not painting and make sure you don't get overspray.

 

HERE IS THE THREAD FOR THE STICKERS
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=31892

 

ok

i just painted them last night...but i had a bit of a problem

let me first answer your questions


i did the job in 80 degree weather,,,,all you need to do is put teh paint and the reactor in teh fridge before you do everything

i did the left side of teh car first ..then i was going to do the right side

(the paint will last long enough if you want to do that)

you dont really need to mask anything because you brush it on...you dont spray it

and its pretty easy to figure out whats paintable and whats not

anyway..this is where the night went terrible wrong

i finished one side of teh car (looks really good) and i wanted to take the car off the jack stands

so i did...one at a time (i think i should have jacked the middle of teh car and taken off both at once

but heres what happend

the rear drivers side seemed a bit higher than the rear passenger side

and it was (by 1/2 inch)

so i got scared and didnt do teh other side of teh car

now i have to buy another g2 kit to paint teh other side (i dont really mind

but can anyone tell me why the car might be higher (is it cause the spring gets streched a bit when its raised?)

if i drive around a bit will my problem be solved?/

 

not sure if this happens with the Z, I have yet to jack it up. But on some cars the suspension is stiff enough that when stretched it will ride higher until it is driven and 're-broke' in and it will settle to normal ride height. Nothing serious, you just 'stretched' some springs/coils out.

 

havabooz, this may be a dumb question, but where do you place the jack when you jack it up and where do you position the jack stands after it is lifted?

 

it all went well with the suspension

on another post someone told me that its totally normal

anyway...your question is def not a dumb one

but right now i dont have enough time to answer it...ill gladly answer in about 2 hours

 

Don't leave me hanging. Just kidding. Whenever you have time to respond.

 

ok..here goes (sorry..i was moving in to school and very busy for the past week)

to lift one side of the car at a time (reccomended)

you need
1 trolley jack (i have 2 1/4 ton (plenty))
2 jack stands (each are 2 ton (plenty))
1 jack block (from jcwhitney.com)

put the jack block on the circle part of the trolley jack

find the running board (thats what i like ot call it)

its a thin piece that runs along the hole siude of the car about 2 inches in from the body (you cant miss it)

anyway..set the groove of the jack block into the thin piece (in the middle of the car


side note (you might need the stock jack to lift the car a bit to get the trolley jack under it

when you do lift the car up put the jack stands on both sides (about 3 inches away from the wheels) on the thin piece (remember ONLY to rest the car on this thin piece (its teh only thing than can support it)

anyway...then just lower the trolley jack slowly so that the car lowers onto the jack stands

then you are ready to work


how was that...still confused?

 

That's great...Sounds easy enough I guess.

Thanks dude.

 

havabooz,
The reason your car sat a little higher on one side after you took it off the jack stands is the "tire" is gripping the floor in the "extended" position of the suspension travel arch, not the spring stretched out. Look at a "Z" on a lift and you will see that when car comes down that the outside edges of the tires touch first, and as weight goes on the wheels, the wheels start to move "outward" from the car. If the floor is clean and the tires can't "slip" the rear of the car will stay "jack up; untill the car is moved.

If you roll the car forward or back enough make the tires turn 1 or 2 revolutions you will have "settled" the suspension. (that is why this does not happen on bumps when the car is moving)

Scott

 

thanks proffesor....when i paint the other side of my car ill keep that in mind