SPC Front Camber Kit
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: !!!Viva Las Vegas!!!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS
As some of you guys know I'm selling my Volks, so I installed the stockers back on. But i need to get the camber at 0 degrees <<< (or close to), so it won't have that uneven wear on my tires. I have an SPC camber kit and it's maxed out, there's about a half inch of metal left where you adjust the arm for TOE in and out. Now would it be SAFE to grind about another .25" on this so I could move the toe out abit more? since that's not the only metal that support the arm anyway that it would be SAFE to do so or this is FAIL waiting to happen?
The only way I can have the FRONT wheels straight up and down or close to, are by raising the suspension all the way up and have about 3" of gap between the tires and the fender... here's a ghetto drawing to show you guys what I'm trying to say... Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks...
Last edited by Bumble_Zee; Dec 19, 2008 at 09:19 PM.
Before someone hammers you and your artwork, what you show as toe in and out is incorrect. Moving the adjustment system towards the fender lip removes negitive camber. Moving the adjustment system away from the fender lip adds additional negitive camber. Toe control is adjusted using the oem adjustment system that has nothing to do with the upper arm. The spc kit can adjust caster.
IMO, do not remove the metal. Set your front toe to zero or 1mm toe in. Taking camber to less then oem settings shouldn't be the avenue to go down to chase more even tire ware.
At the max settings your say your SPC front arms are adjusted to, what are settings as shown on the alignment results?
IMO, do not remove the metal. Set your front toe to zero or 1mm toe in. Taking camber to less then oem settings shouldn't be the avenue to go down to chase more even tire ware.
At the max settings your say your SPC front arms are adjusted to, what are settings as shown on the alignment results?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 351
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From: !!!Viva Las Vegas!!!
oopss, sorry
the alignment is just fine. The camber is what I'm having issues with. I maxed out adjustment for positive side camber, but I still have alot of NEGATIVE CAMBER than OEM. Because when I had the oem suspension on, I only have 1" distance from the outside fender well and the tire, which I still have the same old tires on. But right now I have about 2" of distance from the outside fender to the tire on both sides and that's what I'm trying to fix. No pulling/vibrations when running slow or freeway speeds.
the alignment is just fine. The camber is what I'm having issues with. I maxed out adjustment for positive side camber, but I still have alot of NEGATIVE CAMBER than OEM. Because when I had the oem suspension on, I only have 1" distance from the outside fender well and the tire, which I still have the same old tires on. But right now I have about 2" of distance from the outside fender to the tire on both sides and that's what I'm trying to fix. No pulling/vibrations when running slow or freeway speeds.
Last edited by Bumble_Zee; Dec 19, 2008 at 09:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 351
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From: !!!Viva Las Vegas!!!
coilovers, i raised it all the way up and the wheel was at about -2degrees camber. But I'm not feeling the 3" gap. so I lowered it back down again to flush fender to top of tire. I just thought i could grind it a bit more so I could adjust it more for + camber. I thought a .25" would make a difference.
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