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eiback prokit VS tanabe GF210

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Old 06-01-2009, 03:42 PM
  #81  
jordaven
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Kno.... Are you on stock shocks with those sportlines?? how much of a drop did they give you??
Old 06-04-2009, 06:14 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by danimaldaisy
Can i please get a show of hands for those who know the difference between LINEAR and PROGRESSIVE! LOL!
I for one, don't know the difference. can u please shed some lights?

i've lowered my previous car ('99 prelude) on eibach pro-kit (around 1.5" all around), and it wasn't of a pleasant experience. so, i thought i'd go with Tanabe GFs for my Z, then again after reading lots of threads about those 2 products, i'm still not sure of what am i suppose to get. it's just a mixture of different opinions on both products that doesn't give me the ideal answer.

i'm lowering my car for "looks" atm, i might want to track my car "in the future", tho i still want to ride on something similar to "stock feel" springs.

thnx

Last edited by maXmood; 06-04-2009 at 06:16 AM.
Old 06-27-2009, 01:56 PM
  #83  
danimaldaisy
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I would like to appologize for talking down about the tanabe springs sucking.......

just today i realised my problem on my car....I have had chitty handling for the past 40k miles and have thrown 3 sets of struts at my car as well as 4 sets of springs hotchkis sways and upper tubular A-arms with adjustable camber.....

EVERY time i thought i fixed my problem the sloppy handling came back.....

when i finally got hotchkis sways i thought my problems were gone, but all this did was put more pressure on the already blown bushings and work for a minute and then further damage the bushings until i was right back where i left off with sloppy handling once again....first i bought KYB struts which was a mistake cause they were weaker than factory....then i got tokico blues but they weren't up to the UNKNOWN task that they were compensating for bad bushings and a sway bar that was almost barely working cause of the bushings....enter the d-spec and it is drivable now.....but the bushings are so bad now that the one that connects to the chassis SEEMS to the eye to be fine but once you tear apart the suspension it has seperated......

To sum things up.

My lower control arm has 2 bad bushings.....the bushing that the strut attaches to is cracked on the bottom and sagging (WHY couldn't the nissan tech see that?????)

also the main bushing on the inner part of the lower control arm that connects to the chassis is separated and basically is in the same condition as a blown motor mount......but it is still in place.....i can literally twist the lower control arm left and right with little effort as if i was grabbing the end of a pipe and twisting it. The same exact problem on both sides of the car.

So HOW you may ask would this affect handling????? well the swaybar is connected directly to the lower control arm by an endlink, and the swaybar is NOT working because of this....and even if it is it is TOO LATE.....I need to replace these bushings in order to fix my problem.....

by the way...I pulled the d-specs and tested them and the are strong as hell on the stiffest setting.....i had them set to full stiff to overcompensate the front swaybar not operating correctly.....

this problem showed up at 50kmiles and now i have 100k miles....

if you have weird swaybar problems or are confusing it with struts being blown just remember that in order for the sways to work....the bushings on the lower control arms need to be in good condition or replaced with something better in order for the swaybars to work correctly...

I believe my rear control arm bushings are just fine...and i replaced my endlinks 9 months ago.....GLAD i don't have to purchase a full blown coil over kit now only to be disappointed.....

I just swapped back in my tanabe gf210 springs and had it aligned today and told the tech what happened just so that he knows....

i plan on getting whiteline linear springs and swapping them in since they lowered the Z EXACTLY the same as the tanabe's i have now.

we will see if i am happy after the bushings are replaced as this will be the deciding factor for the spring change.

but the car looks tight as hell now....will post pictures soon.

i could not bring myself to throw the tanabes in the trash....i dumpster dived them out of my own trashcan at the last minute....

WHEW!
Old 06-27-2009, 03:27 PM
  #84  
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Man you did go on one crazy rant about the GF210's. Glad did you retracted your statement so new users can get an honest opinion when researching for springs.
Old 06-27-2009, 04:33 PM
  #85  
jasabeast
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Originally Posted by danimaldaisy
I would like to appologize for talking down about the tanabe springs sucking.......

just today i realised my problem on my car....I have had chitty handling for the past 40k miles and have thrown 3 sets of struts at my car as well as 4 sets of springs hotchkis sways and upper tubular A-arms with adjustable camber.....

EVERY time i thought i fixed my problem the sloppy handling came back.....

when i finally got hotchkis sways i thought my problems were gone, but all this did was put more pressure on the already blown bushings and work for a minute and then further damage the bushings until i was right back where i left off with sloppy handling once again....first i bought KYB struts which was a mistake cause they were weaker than factory....then i got tokico blues but they weren't up to the UNKNOWN task that they were compensating for bad bushings and a sway bar that was almost barely working cause of the bushings....enter the d-spec and it is drivable now.....but the bushings are so bad now that the one that connects to the chassis SEEMS to the eye to be fine but once you tear apart the suspension it has seperated......

To sum things up.

My lower control arm has 2 bad bushings.....the bushing that the strut attaches to is cracked on the bottom and sagging (WHY couldn't the nissan tech see that?????)

also the main bushing on the inner part of the lower control arm that connects to the chassis is separated and basically is in the same condition as a blown motor mount......but it is still in place.....i can literally twist the lower control arm left and right with little effort as if i was grabbing the end of a pipe and twisting it. The same exact problem on both sides of the car.

So HOW you may ask would this affect handling????? well the swaybar is connected directly to the lower control arm by an endlink, and the swaybar is NOT working because of this....and even if it is it is TOO LATE.....I need to replace these bushings in order to fix my problem.....

by the way...I pulled the d-specs and tested them and the are strong as hell on the stiffest setting.....i had them set to full stiff to overcompensate the front swaybar not operating correctly.....

this problem showed up at 50kmiles and now i have 100k miles....

if you have weird swaybar problems or are confusing it with struts being blown just remember that in order for the sways to work....the bushings on the lower control arms need to be in good condition or replaced with something better in order for the swaybars to work correctly...

I believe my rear control arm bushings are just fine...and i replaced my endlinks 9 months ago.....GLAD i don't have to purchase a full blown coil over kit now only to be disappointed.....

I just swapped back in my tanabe gf210 springs and had it aligned today and told the tech what happened just so that he knows....

i plan on getting whiteline linear springs and swapping them in since they lowered the Z EXACTLY the same as the tanabe's i have now.

we will see if i am happy after the bushings are replaced as this will be the deciding factor for the spring change.

but the car looks tight as hell now....will post pictures soon.

i could not bring myself to throw the tanabes in the trash....i dumpster dived them out of my own trashcan at the last minute....

WHEW!
So did you like the way they handled after you fixed ur car... mine feel awesome..
Old 06-27-2009, 07:29 PM
  #86  
danimaldaisy
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I need to purchase and install the bushings....won't know until then.

BUT, if for some reason i still don't like the progressive springs....at least i can get a set of whiteline springs front and rear.....stiffer and linear springs with the same identical drop as the gf210...and i wont have to get an alignment.

so glad i found the problem!

2 quick shots....not the best pictures...for some reason it does not look as low as in the picture.....maybe cause i was squatting while taking the picture.
Attached Thumbnails eiback prokit VS tanabe GF210-img_0251.jpg   eiback prokit VS tanabe GF210-img_0252.jpg  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:14 AM
  #87  
rtiid22
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Originally Posted by danimaldaisy
I need to purchase and install the bushings....won't know until then.

BUT, if for some reason i still don't like the progressive springs....at least i can get a set of whiteline springs front and rear.....stiffer and linear springs with the same identical drop as the gf210...and i wont have to get an alignment.

so glad i found the problem!
Bump.. so how's the ride?
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